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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2011 6:38 pm
Posts: 242
I often deliver babies that weigh more than your bike. Ridiculous.


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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:48 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:07 pm 
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drchull wrote:
I often deliver babies that weigh more than your bike. Ridiculous.


You have to Dremel the babies if you want them to weigh less.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:08 pm 
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Posts: 239
Location: Sweden
hahaha :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Posts: 4438
Location: Canada
Well, with my baby, you'd have to take off 2 lbs. That is more than a Dremel job! Amazing.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2008 7:46 pm
Posts: 1098
Location: Denmark
I can easily get my bike donw to 3,6kg! I just have to cut it in half :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:08 pm
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Its a fantastic bike and amazing weight . You have my admiration sir. But can i ask about the stem and if you have ever thought of changing your stem for a less erect look ?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 588
Location: Lyon
donald wrote:
The cables I'm using are Power cords for the derailleurs and front brake, a very thin steel cable for the rear brake. I could have a lighter fork, and 4 years ago I did have a THM on it that Rue let me use for about 6 months. I just really like the Edge fork. I am a weightweenie because I even sand the chain ring bolts, I think I save 1 1/2 grams. The little holes in the cassette are made a little bigger and it is also sanded as far as I could go, and still work. I say this about the chain ring bolts and cassette lock ring to give you an example of how just about every part on the bike that can have some material removed, I have done it. And so doing this just about everywhere really helps to get the weight down.


I appreciate your work a lot but removing material from a Extralite stem or any superlight part without having FEA results or any hard data to know where it's safe to remove material, it's a real risk. We are not talking about a 200gr DH stem, it's a 78gr stem

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:32 pm
Posts: 167
Location: san francisco ca. usa
Epic-O, I understand your concern about my stem. We all know about many parts that have failed, both modified and stock. And of course, the less material with anything the more likely it could fail. I really did not remove very much material from this stem, and much of it was sanding the sides of the shaft and a little here and there at various places on it. I removed a total of about 6 grams. A stem is a critical area of the bike, if it fails a crash is very likely. I never want to crash, but with what I have done, and my experience modifying parts I feel totally confident with this stem.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:16 am 
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Posts: 973
donald do you have more pictures of the rim drilling that you've done? I think I remember reading that you drill out the inner wall so the rims are almost like a single wall? Do you use a few large holes or lots of small holes about the size of the existing inner spoke holes?

Have you done any to the outer walls other than re-drilling them for whatever spoke count that you'd like to use?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:33 am 
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Location: san francisco ca. usa
Jooo, I don't have pictures of my rim modifications. I have talked a little about it in past posts. I no longer drill the inner upper wall, only holes where the spoke nipples go in. I just remove material by sanding the side walls a little, drilling different size holes between where the spoke holes are, depending how light I want to go, and also using a dremel sanding cylinder to remove various amounts of material near these holes, and a little above. I don't remove material where the spoke holes are. And again, I have been using these rims for over 20 years and have had very few problems. My wife always wonders why I spend so much time making my bikes light.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:57 am 
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Posts: 973
Thanks donald, I'm thinking of giving it a try myself - I think I may have even asked you about it at some stage before.

I've seen lots of pics of others doing it, but the majority have been on very wide single wall snow/trials rims so it's a bit different than normal road/MTB rims.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:33 pm
Posts: 101
Hi Donald

I think how you can save few grams:) First you can do is to sand the seatpost and saddle.

Another option for very light project bike is to change gearing for 1x1 (singlespeed)

Best


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:08 pm
Posts: 1365
Every time i think about that seatpost, with no clamp. I really hope the roads stay true for you. It's such a fantasic bike. I just hope you have not gone beyond the limits of your own safety for the sake of a gram or two.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:32 pm
Posts: 167
Location: san francisco ca. usa
Artray, I have talked about this in the past. I have used this post, without a clamp for two years now. There is a very small bolt, 1/2 of a gram, in the front seat tube and goes into the post. This prevents the post from turning. The post fits very tight into the seat tube but I also have a little build up of clear coat right where the post stops at the seat tube. I also use this same set up on my other bike. I have never had a problem, even on the very bad roads in the Bay area.


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Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:50 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:32 pm
Posts: 167
Location: san francisco ca. usa
Now 7.82 lbs., 3,550 grams with the new stem and seat post. The frame is now 5 years old, with over 4 1/2 years of riding. 5 years ago it started out at 8.4 lbs., in that time I have only taken off .6 lbs., not really much at all. Oh well, I better get back in my shop right now and start working -- just kidding.


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