Here's my new build. Parts were selected from the parts I already owned. My goal is to build a bike that fits me perfectly.

Notice I'm not running tape on the bars. Think I like the marble look of the carbon and the minimalist thing. If my hands are going numb...I'll invest in gloves. Just wish I could squeeze 28c tires on.

This girl has a really HIGH stack. 205mm head tube plus another 25mm of spacers. Think I'll remove the spacers...slam it as someone once said.

Think she'll be the ultimate climber after I get the new brakes put on (TRP 920). They should be here by Wednesday. The calculated weight of 13.986lbs is after adding on the 260g of the brakeset. I'm sure they'll come in heavy and push me over 14lbs

I'm using a Walmart cableset...$5.50 after tax

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Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs

why the spacer tower with that degree stem? why not slam it and get a more appropriate degree stem?

Cause I already had the stem...plus I didn't want to buy more parts OR cut the steerer till I have it dialed in. I've not put even a mile on that rig.

You make a great point. It's a 130mm stem. Wonder if I got a 130mm stem with 6 degrees rise...slammed?

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Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs

I think you need to lengthen your chain.....

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"black on black, is a crime"

Works perfect....any more would just be added luggage.

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Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs

What's the best tool to use in cutting a steerer. I've used a hack saw in the past and it sucks. There a better tool/method?

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Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs

http://www.parktool.com/product/threadl ... forks-sg-8

plus hack saw with carbon specific blade

make sure you tape the steerer tube where you're cutting with electrical tape to prevent fraying

Your chain is at least 2 links too short. It will work, but suck. I don't get why you do some of the things you do to post numbers on this forum when you clearly sacrifice so many things, including basic function.

Put some endcaps on your bars. That's just dangerous without them. Run tape- you're saving 30 grams and honestly its not like anyone hasn't seen a 14lb bike before.

Another thing, the nose of your saddle should go up considerably. I know that the BikeRadar article on the saddle says differently, but we've had the designer of the saddle in our shop and state otherwise. The cable thing is another story but if you're going to spend that kind of money on a bike at least make it function properly. Aren't you like 200+ lbs? the whatever grams from a decent chain, tape, and cables is negligible

Chain is to short. Also match your bars,stem and seat post.

I get hot spots with the saddle nose up.

The cables work fine.

I've never owned a 14lb bike before...not sure I ever seen one in person until now.

Chain function is fine...

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Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs

It always surprises me the way people spend their money, the things they give priority to.

Yes this is weight weenies but fit and comfort should always be number 1..

You say you want comfort but you are skipping bar tape, you probably should also try a new saddle if you have to set yours up so extreme to be rideable... I would not want to have my 'long trek bike' to not have any bar tape for my hands.

As was said in another post even if you choose to ride with bartape you really should put some plugs in the ends of your handlebar.

Cut your steerer with a high tpi hacksaw blade, that wil give you the best cut. Masking tape where you are cutting is also a good idea for protection from frays.

One last note, you just put this bike together take a few minutes to clean your drivetrain....

Edit. You should also cut down the extra axle on your QR, it will save you a gram or two as well

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Looks like a confusing mish mash of parts, no harmony in it. great base to work from though, you could learn a lot from the Spec Project Blue build

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Scott CR1 - 12.84Ib

why spend so much on a bike and use crappy cables scimping out on spending $25 dollars which is less than 1/100th of the price of the rest of the bike
your saddle should be flat, if it's not then you've either got your seat too high and pointing it back down to compensate or its not the right saddle for you.

riding without bartape is an accident waiting to happen

Ritchey, token, kcnc?....another 'whatever' bike

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Wilier Cento Uno
Colnago Master X-light
Wilier 18carati

Seat height is nothing new to me. I feel comfy at that height with that saddle. Though till I get 100 miles on it I will have no idea if it is "perfect".

Now you mention it...doesn't really match my shoes and purse. I am tempted to cut the steerer and put in a 140mm 6 degree stem. They sale stems like that in lime green?

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Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs