Excellent! How was the feeding of the housing into the frame?

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-For my next trick I will set myself on fire!
-This board and the world in general would be a much nicer place if everyone could just take themselves a little less seriously.
-Sticky Fingers John Rockefeller
-First one over the cliff wins!

Not bad with standard housings, fed a cable through from the TT down to the BB, and another from the chainstay up to the BB, tied them together and pulled the whole thing back to the chainstay. Then backfed the housing over the cable; if your cable is long enough and you cut the housing close to length you can feed the housing far enough to expose the cable on both ends. Pull the cable taut (holding both ends), and you can force the housing straight through the rest of the frame. Finally fed it up through the handlebars. It took a bit to figure out, but was really easy once I got it going.

The only thing is with no cable stops where the housing enters the downtube, there's a little bit of rubbing when the housing pulls back and forth as you steer, etc. I feel like I need a little rubber grommet or something to keep the housing from sliding back and forth at this point. Maybe a couple wraps of shrink tubing? Any thoughts?

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this is a TT bike forget the weight aerodynamic and stiffness is all about . put a 54 chairing and eat the road .
at the end dont forget if you dont have a disk wheel you dont have TT bike

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πατα τραβα ρε

+1

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Slam your stem.

Haha, I know, but weight is so easy. It seems nice and stiff, but I really won't be able to tell until I get it onto the road. It definitely puts me in a more powerful and aerodynamic position than my road bike plus clip ons, and the frame and setup is significantly more aero as well.

How bad is it going to be with a disc cover instead of a real disc? The cover looks comparable aerodynamically, but... I haven't even put it on the wheel yet, maybe it will look ok?

And, until I can spin out a 50/11....on a flat....for the length of a time trial, I think I'm ok without a 54

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It won't be bad at all. It's gonna look just like a disc and have similar aerodynamics, but it won't have the wooosh woosh sound of a full carbon disc.

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Slam your stem.

Brakes came in and they look great. Weight is actually 285g including the standard pads. I'll pull the pads and get a weight without them this evening. So, I'm just waiting on brake cables, housings and a new stem. Should have it on the road next week.

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Ready to ride at 7.05kg. It's been a busy couple of days, but finally got the brakes attached. I'm still waiting on the Corima brake pads before making final adjustments to the brake setup (cables a little long and setup a little wide). So, should be 7.4kg with the disc cover attached. Maybe I can actually get it on the road by this weekend.

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Very well done! It looks very clean from the front. I assume those are training wheels not race wheels. Also I use the bolt on type skewers on my race wheels since aerodynamically they catch less wind.

_________________
-For my next trick I will set myself on fire!
-This board and the world in general would be a much nicer place if everyone could just take themselves a little less seriously.
-Sticky Fingers John Rockefeller
-First one over the cliff wins!

yeah really sexy front I like the view

great work

Thanks guys. I'm pretty happy with the way it came out, I got the routing as clean as I could. And yes, those are the 404s on there, without the disc cover over the rear. I'll probably get a tri-spoke for the front at some point, I'd imagine that will look even cleaner. I'll try to get it back outside today to get some pics in better light, show the cable routing, etc.

With the full length shift housings going straight into the frame without stops, the housings were definitely rubbing badly. You could already see some heavy scrapes on the outside of the housings where they entered the frame. I used some insulating tape and wrapped the housings to create a little stop/pinch, I think it will keep the housings from shifting around so much while steering.

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And a couple of position shots. What do you think? These are stills from video, so should be a fairly accurate depiction of my position. I need to concentrate on keeping my head down and just eyes up, if I do that my head/helmet lines look much better.

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So, that's 7.43kg with the disc cover on, as shown.

I have a couple of questions.
- Anyone using the Arundel chrono? It feels like its holding the bottle solid side-to-side, but if I barely nudge it in a direction straight away from the cage it practically falls out. Just does not seem stable, which surprises me from Arundel.
- Speed/cadence sensor? I'll use my Edge 500, so obviously I get speed from GPS and I don't know how dependable the speed readout would be off a disc or disc cover anyway, and I'm just wondering if its even worth it for cadence only. I guess it will be nice for trainer miles.
- Helmet? Looks and feels really high on my head and I have to shove it way back to get good contact with my back. Should I be looking at other options. (can't believe I cropped it out of the stupid video, but I think you get the idea from what is showing)
- Oh yeah, one of our new sponsors for next year. I need to find out more details on the hub and the weight, but I should get a really good deal on this:

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You're back looks pretty flat and your fit looks good but either playing with a power meter or paying for wind tunnel time is the only way to acheive the ideal position. The leg lift looks high. Most time trialists have a tendency to go with shorter cranks over their road bikes, I ride 170's on my tt bike and 172.5 road and 175 mtb. Also since I run a Quarq cadence comes from the crank. I had an advance 2 helmet and from there went to a Lazer Tardez which is better for head down riders. I just picked up a Rudy Project Wingspan which is even better than the Lazer which I will sell soon. I have some neck injuries that makes cranking my head way back uncomfortable after a short period of time.

Thanks for the later pictures especially the one of the top tube cable routing!

_________________
-For my next trick I will set myself on fire!
-This board and the world in general would be a much nicer place if everyone could just take themselves a little less seriously.
-Sticky Fingers John Rockefeller
-First one over the cliff wins!

Yeah, a power meter is on my long-term list still, and I think a wind tunnel is out of my league, but I'll keep playing around with it. Good point on the crank length, that is a 172.5, I will go to a standard crank to get a bigger ring at some point, and I'll plan on going down to a 170 when I do.

I like the Wingspan, almost got one instead of the Advantage last year. I was kind of thinking about something with a visor though, the Selector maybe.

Hope the pictures do help, the top tube routing doesn't look great from above, but very clean from the front which is what matters I suppose. Did you notice the little "plugs" I put on the shift housings where they enter the top tube? Those are the rub points, and definitely need something to 1)keep the housing from working its way down the tube eventually effecting steering as it pulls taut at the top, and 2)wearing/rubbing the cable housings in the process.

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