Hi Sedluk!

Matt with Power Cordz here. First of all, a big congrats on such a beautiful build. Naturally, we are curious about how the Cordz are performing. Also, how was installation? Do you have any clarification questions regarding the install? We'd like to make sure you have a nice, safe ride each time you are out there.

Keep riding and let us know how we can continue to help!

matt@iodupont.com

http://www.powercordz.com
http://www.facebook.com/powercordz
http://www.twitter.com/powercordz

edit

What is the benefit of using the powercordz with the iLinks rather than the standard iLink cables?

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

Sedluk, I'd be glad to help you save some weight - the simple answer to the white ilink outers is to cut them . Yes it makes stringing the ilinks a royal PITA, but it works nicely. Or just get out your trusty permanent marker and colour them in. It's not perfect black and it will may rub off, but it looks OK IMO.

Regarding the bike, forget about the forumgoers who know more about your bike fit than you do. Similarly for comments on the organisation and owning two bikes. People who aren't organised either have too much time or too little ambition to get as much as possible out of life. Do what's right for you.

I must say the bike looks great - kind of similar to my R5SL with the AX post, real saddle and CCUs. I must get round to posting it here. +1 for the comment on seeing a picture of both R5CAs together.

that thing looks wicked!

Weight?
iLink cables are metal.
Powercordz are not metal, filament is lighter.
¿No?

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Exp001

Sorry for going off topic but it would be nice if PowerCordz coughed up some legitimate advertising payment to the forum owners rather than this underhand spamming that has appeared in several topics recently.

When I see listed weights for these different cables, the powercordz are always heavier. I guess if you remove the liner it is lighter Than the iLinks

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

I think you're comparing apples and pears.

- The powercordz inner wire is lighter than a metal inner wire.
- A powercordz cable kit with plastic inner wire and standard metal wound outer (like Shimano or Campag) could be quite heavy as the outer might be heavy.
- Powercordz inner wire + liner + ilink outer is the lightest solution.

Clear?
It would be helpful if Powercordz and ilink got together and sold a bundled product, but they don't.

Thanks for clearing that up

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

I really like the combination of the i-link outer housing, i-link liner and Powercordz cable.

I have had many builds with Campy cables and always enjoyed the crisp shifting. I was surprised by how heavy the Campy cablesets is but found that they were about the same weight as most other comparable cablesets. A Campy cableset out of the box is something like 308 grams. Now I know that you do not use everything, you trim off some of the housing and the cables. But when you look down at a list of bike parts and what they weigh the one that stuck out was the cables.

So I ordered some i-Link housing/cables for shifting (mini) and braking. I figured that it would save about 125 grams. I had some help with the first install and it took some time. The braking seemed fine but I was never really happy with the shifting. When shifting from a larger cog in the back to a smaller cog things were usually OK. But when shifting from a smaller cog to a larger one the cable felt like it did not always want to pull through the housing the same distance. If I would sweep the shifter more slowly the shifting was better and much more consistent. But if I did a normal quick sweep, sometimes the derailleur would move the correct amount and sometime it would stop just short of where it needed to be. If you look at a normal steel cable it is rough with braided wire. I had the idea that maybe a Powercordz would pull through the housing a little smoother because it has a smoother surface. Maybe the steel cable has more friction inside the housing.

I tried to find examples of i-link housings and Powercordz and never found a good write up. I just ordered some cables (1.2mm derailleur cables, road brake cables) and thought that I would give them a try. I watched the videos and took my time installing them.

I found a place called Clee Cycles that sold just the i-link liners. I took the old i-link housings off and replaced the liners. I was very careful so that where the liner meets the shifter, the liner actually goes into the shifter just a little. That way the Powercordz cable does not rub on the opening to the shifter. Getting the liner the right length takes a little trial and error. You won't really know exactly where the liner will end until you put the cable through and tighten things up. Then you may need to back the cable out and trim the liner a little more.

The gear liner is clear, the brake liner is black.

For the Ax Lightness brakes you will need 2x BTP - Bike Tuning Parts Cable Fixing Bolts. This is unfortunate for a couple of reasons. The first is the Ax Lightness fixing bolt is beautiful. The second is the BTP bolts are $20 a piece and almost impossible to find. The good news is they work with Powercordz and they weigh less than the Ax fixing bolts.

There is a 2mm hex socket on each end of the BTP bolts to tighten the cable when in the bolt. I read the instructions and looked around the web before deciding on sending the cable through the center, wrap around the bolt once and down through the bolt a second time. This has been a secure way of holding the cable.

I would recommend having the brake liner a little shorter than in my picture. It does not cause any problems but there is very little cable showing between the fixing bolt and the brake liner. I would need to loosen the fixing bolt, take the cable out and trim the liner. I would not trim the liner with the cable inside for fear of cutting the cable.

I do not notice any difference with braking with the Powercordz, the Campy was fine and the original i-link cable was fine. The i-link housing, i-link liner and Powercordz combo is lighter with no loss of performance. That is a great result.

I noticed the smoother shifting right away when switching to the Powercordz from the i-link steel cables. I don't think I would have stayed with the straight i-link system for long. I can't say the Powercordz is any better than the original Campy. The great news is that for me it is so close to the original Campy cables that as far as shifting, I can't say which is better. If the Campy is better it is not much better. I did not do a detailed weight difference between the two systems, but the i-link/Powercordz is definitely much lighter than the original Campy. I think it is the lightest cable system currently available.

i've eaten meals that weigh more than your bike.

Hello,
very nice bike, but so expensive!!!
Could you please tell me how tall you are?? and the length of your legs
One of my friend is going to buy a R3 but hesitates between a 51 and a 54 !!??
Thanks a lot for him
Scal

So you are using the regular iLink rather then the mini for the shifting?

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

I am 169 cm tall, inseam 80.7 cm. I took those myself so they are an estimate.

I think the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator is a good starting point.