Pells R6 Carbon
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
First of all, sorry for my english
I've been reading this forum for months and now I'm going to introduce myself :p I'm 24, student from Slovakia. My bike is czech-made, carbon frame (3 years old) and fork (320 g), with Shimano components. I'm using older type of wheels, American Classic 420.
Here is complet specification :
Frame: Pells R6 Carbon (size S/M)
Fork: Pells RF6
Headset: Pells X-Head Carbon
Crankset: FSA K-Force Light Carbon 53/39, 172,5mm
Wheelset: American Classic 420
Tyres: Michelin Pro 2 Race (I know, blue is bad, but it was for good price )
Pedals: Shimano Ultegra
Chain: Shimano Ultegra
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra (12-25)
Brakes: Shimano Ultegra
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR (135g)
Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace 7800
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace 7800
Stem: Pells (80mm)
Handlebars: Ritchey Comp (40cm)
Shifters: Shimano Dura-Ace 7800
Bottle Cages: Pells
Computer : Polar CS200cad
I'm glad to read your opinions
I've been reading this forum for months and now I'm going to introduce myself :p I'm 24, student from Slovakia. My bike is czech-made, carbon frame (3 years old) and fork (320 g), with Shimano components. I'm using older type of wheels, American Classic 420.
Here is complet specification :
Frame: Pells R6 Carbon (size S/M)
Fork: Pells RF6
Headset: Pells X-Head Carbon
Crankset: FSA K-Force Light Carbon 53/39, 172,5mm
Wheelset: American Classic 420
Tyres: Michelin Pro 2 Race (I know, blue is bad, but it was for good price )
Pedals: Shimano Ultegra
Chain: Shimano Ultegra
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra (12-25)
Brakes: Shimano Ultegra
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR (135g)
Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace 7800
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace 7800
Stem: Pells (80mm)
Handlebars: Ritchey Comp (40cm)
Shifters: Shimano Dura-Ace 7800
Bottle Cages: Pells
Computer : Polar CS200cad
I'm glad to read your opinions
Truth and love must prevail over lies and hatred. (V. Havel, november 1989)
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- Powerful Pete
- Moderator
- Posts: 4132
- Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2004 10:22 am
- Location: Lima, Peru and the Washington DC area - it's complicated.
Nice ride! Tell us more about the ride quality when you have a chance!
Road bike: Cervelo R3, Campagnolo Chorus/Record mix...
Supercommuter: Jamis Renegade...
Oldie but goodie: De Rosa Professional Slx, Campagnolo C-Record...
And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.
Supercommuter: Jamis Renegade...
Oldie but goodie: De Rosa Professional Slx, Campagnolo C-Record...
And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.
- weenie #2533
- Posts: 592
- Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:17 am
- Location: Serbia
- Contact:
nice ride !
nice ride, how much does it weigh?
Weight of bike : 7,5 kg
Weight of me : 54 kg
Riding the bike :
Pros :
-riding in curves
-holding the course
-comfort (sometimes i have a feeling of defect in rear wheel )
Cons :
-the frame is not as rigid as before 2-3 years (I ride approximately 12 000km/year), but maybe its only my feeling, not reality
-When Im not riding in the saddle, the front wheel is touching my speed sensor (bigger length between sensor and wheel means no speed at display).
Weight of me : 54 kg
Riding the bike :
Pros :
-riding in curves
-holding the course
-comfort (sometimes i have a feeling of defect in rear wheel )
Cons :
-the frame is not as rigid as before 2-3 years (I ride approximately 12 000km/year), but maybe its only my feeling, not reality
-When Im not riding in the saddle, the front wheel is touching my speed sensor (bigger length between sensor and wheel means no speed at display).
Truth and love must prevail over lies and hatred. (V. Havel, november 1989)
- Powerful Pete
- Moderator
- Posts: 4132
- Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2004 10:22 am
- Location: Lima, Peru and the Washington DC area - it's complicated.
vladoo wrote:-When Im not riding in the saddle, the front wheel is touching my speed sensor (bigger length between sensor and wheel means no speed at display).
That has nothing to do with your frame, but more to do with your choice of wheels!
Very nice bike, BTW.
Road bike: Cervelo R3, Campagnolo Chorus/Record mix...
Supercommuter: Jamis Renegade...
Oldie but goodie: De Rosa Professional Slx, Campagnolo C-Record...
And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.
Supercommuter: Jamis Renegade...
Oldie but goodie: De Rosa Professional Slx, Campagnolo C-Record...
And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.
I have new ti bolts (ebay) and I cutted down the cables.
Btw. how do you cut your cables ? I dont have special cutter (they are a little bit expansive) and with my pliers it was the job for the strong man :p
Btw. how do you cut your cables ? I dont have special cutter (they are a little bit expansive) and with my pliers it was the job for the strong man :p
Truth and love must prevail over lies and hatred. (V. Havel, november 1989)
- prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
I've never heard of this frame before - but I'm very interested now! Your build looks great!
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
You can browse www.pells.cz, they have e-shop, road bikes here : http://pcshop.pells.cz/sport/jizdni-kol ... _c731.html
(1 000 CZK = 41 EUR)
They were one of the first, who made so slim seatstays.
(1 000 CZK = 41 EUR)
They were one of the first, who made so slim seatstays.
Truth and love must prevail over lies and hatred. (V. Havel, november 1989)
The rear AC420 on an AC hub will flex as the flanges are really narrow. Rebuilt on anothe hub it's fine. The front maybe flexes a bit, but no more than any other wheel. I think you need a new battery or stronger magnet to avoid rubbing - try a rare earth one.
Since this is WW, I suggest de-stickering the wheelset to save 17g per wheel for free. Then light tubes and new bars, stem etc. I think you could save maybe 200-300g for not too many $.
Regarding the cables, invest in some proper cable cutting pliers. Park tools or other recognisable make is good. A bench grinder or dremel is also nice to have for squaring off the cable ends. Buy the proper tools once, then you'll do a professional job every time, long after the price of the tool is forgotten.
Since this is WW, I suggest de-stickering the wheelset to save 17g per wheel for free. Then light tubes and new bars, stem etc. I think you could save maybe 200-300g for not too many $.
Regarding the cables, invest in some proper cable cutting pliers. Park tools or other recognisable make is good. A bench grinder or dremel is also nice to have for squaring off the cable ends. Buy the proper tools once, then you'll do a professional job every time, long after the price of the tool is forgotten.
MrFish, thank You for your opinion
I dont know, what is "rare earth one".
I have no experiences with destickering the wheels - I dont want 17g down and bad looking wheels. This stickers looks OK after years, too, because they are not on the surface, but under some layer and they match with the frame.
New carbon stem and bars cost more than I evaluate the advantage of 200g lighter bike. Btw. to save 200g on the stem, bars and tubes, it's hard
To your last sentence : I realized that but only in my mind As I saw it on the screen :p, I did it. I bought cable cutter yesterday (YPK, 11 euro).
I dont know, what is "rare earth one".
I have no experiences with destickering the wheels - I dont want 17g down and bad looking wheels. This stickers looks OK after years, too, because they are not on the surface, but under some layer and they match with the frame.
New carbon stem and bars cost more than I evaluate the advantage of 200g lighter bike. Btw. to save 200g on the stem, bars and tubes, it's hard
To your last sentence : I realized that but only in my mind As I saw it on the screen :p, I did it. I bought cable cutter yesterday (YPK, 11 euro).
Truth and love must prevail over lies and hatred. (V. Havel, november 1989)
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com