Colnago Master-X-Light - New Photos

[sakic]

Nice bike, I will get a white one this week and am not really sure ? How to build it.

@taz, some folks are getting the new fork cut/threaded for the old look.

I have both a fairly mint itm eclypse in 1 inch threadless and quill, not sure how retro to go. Probably all modern parts, but with a classic style, for example, the last of the silver record hubs with brand new ambrosio nemisis rims and some modern tyres with tan sidewalls.

I like the zabel colour and they have dropped it for next year, so nice timing.

[AdvanceSpark]

Beautiful bike.
Did you change the fork it came with for a threaded one?

Precisa fork comes threadless. You have to thread it yourself or at your LBS if you want it old school.

[AdvanceSpark]

hetchins are just ugly on there own.

depending on what is CF it can look good.(i think anyway, more so on the sarroni, not sure with zabel) besides the frame is new isnt it?

I have to disagree. There are very light and high quality aluminium parts you can use instead of CF if you want to build a WW Colnago MXL. For instance, Tune seatpost, stem (for threadless builds), hubs, Fast Foot cranks etc have discreet branding and are lighter than many CF parts at equal price. Handsome too. I think it's OK to go for half CF half alu derailleurs as the high end Campy stuff is turning black and blacker.

I can't see the reason for picking such a purpose built frame in 2010 and storm it with CF parts when the frameset is twice heavier than an equally priced CF frameset. I even think it's better to build these frames with non-CF Shimano groupsets instead of carbon Campy stuff. But again, that's my opinion, and everyone has their own.

Some just need to "reconsider" just like I did and ignored my Tune stuff for the sake of the frame.

[sakic]

I am tossing up between a near mint 9 speed pointy hood record group, first gen 10 speed record or going with the full alu athena, but for me I prefer the square taper cranks and bottom bracket to the look of outboard bearings.

I had never heard of those cranks you mention, have to check them out.

Did you mention which bottle cages you will use?

[cmh]

hetchins are just ugly on there own.

depending on what is CF it can look good.(i think anyway, more so on the sarroni, not sure with zabel) besides the frame is new isnt it?

I have to disagree. There are very light and high quality aluminium parts you can use instead of CF if you want to build a WW Colnago MXL. For instance, Tune seatpost, stem (for threadless builds), hubs, Fast Foot cranks etc have discreet branding and are lighter than many CF parts at equal price. Handsome too. I think it's OK to go for half CF half alu derailleurs as the high end Campy stuff is turning black and blacker.

I can't see the reason for picking such a purpose built frame in 2010 and storm it with CF parts when the frameset is twice heavier than an equally priced CF frameset. I even think it's better to build these frames with non-CF Shimano groupsets instead of carbon Campy stuff. But again, that's my opinion, and everyone has their own.

Some just need to "reconsider" just like I did and ignored my Tune stuff for the sake of the frame.

Nothing wrong with pairing a beautiful frame with beautiful parts...the Saronni looks gorgeous all done up with cf.

[AdvanceSpark]

I am tossing up between a near mint 9 speed pointy hood record group, first gen 10 speed record or going with the full alu athena, but for me I prefer the square taper cranks and bottom bracket to the look of outboard bearings.

I had never heard of those cranks you mention, have to check them out.

Did you mention which bottle cages you will use?

I'll fit a single Arundel Stainless Steel cage. It's a looker and holds the bottle really well.

Here it is:

[Taz]

Haha, this thread is turning into a show off your Master X-Light .
@ AdvanceSpark
I know the precisa fork comes threadless nowadays. I have one (shameless showing off below )



This is the first time though that I hear about threading the steerer yourself but I guess since the thickness of the steerer seems adequate it should not cause any problems.

On the carbon vs. no carbon build it is just a matter of opinion.
For example with mine I went for a modern setup which looks old school with no carbon.
Still I like setups like cmh's and don't think they look out of place.
I prefer mine though

[AdvanceSpark]

Haha, this thread is turning into a show off your Master X-Light .
@ AdvanceSpark
I know the precisa fork comes threadless nowadays. I have one (shameless showing off below )



This is the first time though that I hear about threading the steerer yourself but I guess since the thickness of the steerer seems adequate it should not cause any problems.

On the carbon vs. no carbon build it is just a matter of opinion.
For example with mine I went for a modern setup which looks old school with no carbon.
Still I like setups like cmh's and don't think they look out of place.
I prefer mine though

I was expecting you to show up sooner or later

I'm not very familiar with the newer square taper cranksets. Taz , what year is your crankset from? It's different from the one on the bike I posted to show the bottle cages. I wonder what year that is too.

[Taz]

The crankset is (flamesuit on) Shimano Ultegra 6500.
Year should be circa 2006.
They are octalink and not square taper.
The one on the pic you posted is a Campagnolo Record with the hidden 5th bolt, one of the most beautiful alu cranksets ever made in my opinion.

[kgt]

I'm here too!

[a.davis12]

I have to disagree. There are very light and high quality aluminium parts you can use instead of CF if you want to build a WW Colnago MXL. For instance, Tune seatpost, stem (for threadless builds), hubs, Fast Foot cranks etc have discreet branding and are lighter than many CF parts at equal price. Handsome too. I think it's OK to go for half CF half alu derailleurs as the high end Campy stuff is turning black and blacker.

I can't see the reason for picking such a purpose built frame in 2010 and storm it with CF parts when the frameset is twice heavier than an equally priced CF frameset. I even think it's better to build these frames with non-CF Shimano groupsets instead of carbon Campy stuff. But again, that's my opinion, and everyone has their own.

Some just need to "reconsider" just like I did and ignored my Tune stuff for the sake of the frame.

who said anything about building a weenie master light. mine weighs 7.92kg, by no means light. i chose the grouppo because of it performance and i can't stand sq taper bbs. i may choose one for my zabel master though, it may better suit the colour scheme. hardly stormed either. but yeah to each their own, its hard to make a master look ugly anyway.

(although i have seen one built with sram red and sram s60s )

[AdvanceSpark]

who said anything about building a weenie master light. mine weighs 7.92kg, by no means light. i chose the grouppo because of it performance and i can't stand sq taper bbs. i may choose one for my zabel master though, it may better suit the colour scheme. hardly stormed either. but yeah to each their own, its hard to make a master look ugly anyway.

(although i have seen one built with sram red and sram s60s )

It's a lot weenier compared to where I'm going. The saddle itself is 362 g. I think it will end up around 9 kg.

I can't argue with the desire to use top of the range equipment after seeing what Campy offers in silver nowadays. It's a shame, really. It has never been this cheap and ugly. Campagnolo isn't available in Turkey, so I was really surprised with the loss of build quality. Even the screws holding the front derailleur needed replacing because they were faulty right out of the package!

I'll look for early 10 speed Chorus or Record stuff as an upgrade.

[AdvanceSpark]

New Photos!

[majklnajt]

Damn you

Great, man!!

[AdvanceSpark]

Damn you

Great, man!!

Thanks! I ordered a small frame and bought a short stem though. I had serious numbness problems with my previous rig (Zullo Tour'91) which had 56cm / 100mm setup. Changed many saddles, but still... I got a shorter one to avoid stretching forward, but still the problem persists. I think I'll try something like SLR Gel Flow...

Any recommendations?