It was so distraught over losing the WW bike of the year competition to, of all things, a Klein that it jumped.

Now, had the Photon beaten it (and had I remembered to nominate it), it might have taken it a bit easier. But metal?

(Personally, I liked the Klein, being a bit retro).

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
Send your data to Weight Weenie listings!

What's the back story? Did the holes in the frame appear to contribe, or was it purely the sort of catastrophic impact that overbears anything assembled from carbon?

Edit: That Photon is awesome.

_________________
2011 Cannondale SuperSix HiMod: 6.19 kg. / 13.65 lbs.
2005 Fuji Team Issue: 6.6 kg. / 14.5 lbs.

Is that the same VXR of this thread? Why was the picture posted by 'santabarbara' and not 'coloclimber' ?

_________________
Exp001

Colo sold it, or had it sold on ebay awhile back. Santabarbara's friend must have bought it

I just got the internal kit from Hong Kong and the ugly box is no longer!!!

hey, so i am a bit confused. last year i followed this thread for weeks, but just now i figured i would check to see what ever happened to the VXR.

concept64 bought the frame from colo and had it repainted. did something happen to it? If anyone knows, i'd love to find out because i am thinking of removing all the paint from my VXR.

Whatever happened, it looks like the paint wouldn't have saved it.

Still a crime this didn't win WW2010 bike of the year. People confused "WW bike of the year" with "bike I'd most want to ride every day".

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
Send your data to Weight Weenie listings!

This is my adaptation for remote shifter on flat handlebar with Di2.

I have been lurking here for years. An made the shift to Di2 internal cables with battery mod smoothly after reading all about it here. Written all about it in this thread (in Swedish).
http://happymtb.org/forum/read.php/1/1617295" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyway...

I made a mess out of the battery after one season when I managed to short circuit it when fooling around with it whilst in the charger.

So. I need to replace the cells. I've read up on the different options with RC LiPo batteries and it seems both light good. But then I need a different charger than the standard Shimano Di2 one. So now to my real guestion. What does the electronics in the battery pack do?
- Balancing the battery cells when charging?
- Signaling to the junctions box when it's time to charge the battery?
- Anything else?

Could it be left out? Or be on integrated on the charger cable?

Here some pics from the original set up and the cells that I wish to replace:











//F

Go to www.rcgroups.com and read about lipos there. From my other hobby flying electric model helicopters, it's very important to respect lipos unless you want your bike, shed, car or house to end up in flames.

In a nutshell, lipos can explode or catch fires if you over charge them. If cells go over a certain voltage (3.5v IIRC) then you have a serious problem. So cells are carefully matched to so that they charge and discharge at the same rate.

Then a Lipo charger is a bit different to a Nicad charger, which just increases voltage until a maximum charge current is reached (constant current). Instead the Lipo charger charges in two steps: it increases voltage until a specified current is reached (constant current), then when the battery pack peak voltage is reached the current reduces to complete the charge (constant voltage). The peak voltage is also calibrated to <0.01v. So that's why it's a very bad idea to attempt to charge a Lipo cell with a nicad charger. BOOM!

Now the battery charger can only 'see' the whole pack voltage, so if you have 2 cells in series, you could just charge each cell individually to ensure voltages are all fine. But that's difficult and requires two chargers. So instead balancer circuits monitor pack voltages and just pass a tiny current to keep all cells at the same voltage. This is particularly important on model helicopters where you might run a 16-cell 8s2p pack for example. The balancer is typically part of the charger in RC applications and part of the cells in consumer applications.

The other thing to watch out for is that Lipo cells have very low internal resistance, so a small Lipo pack can output all its charge in about a second, giving a similar effect as shorting out a lead acid truck battery. So when you put connectors on the bare cells you need to avoid shorting the wires. For example if you happen to short out the cells by touching wires with a wedding ring, the ring will glow red, the wires will weld to the ring and you will probably lose your finger.

Take care.

Hi you can see my work here on the paint and the repar

paint (Now i don be my self... )

http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... ree_1.html

http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... raphe.html

the frames
http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... GIANT.html

the best look for me...
http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... Works.html

http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... prisa.html

http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... Scott.html

http://www.concept64.fr/Pieces_Velos_su ... nture.html

see you soon