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 Post subject: Colnago C60 Disc OFCG
PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:14 pm
Posts: 41
Ok so here are the pictures and weights along with some commentary.

First of all, here is the finished bike.

Image


Image

The total weight is 7.4kgs, which is only slightly disappointing. When I started I hoped for under 16lbs (and it is 16.3lbs) but when you consider that the frame is 1250g and the forks are 470 then I wasn't really starting from a good place.

Here is my spreadsheet with a component list along with claimed and actual weights where I have them. I will post some initial ride impressions below.

Attachment:
weightsheet.jpg
weightsheet.jpg [ 102.5 KiB | Viewed 368 times ]


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 Post subject: Colnago C60 Disc OFCG
Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:51 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:54 pm 
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Location: Padova
Very nice job [emoji106]

Inviato dal mio GT-I9070 utilizzando Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:59 pm 
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Location: Athens, Greece
Not a fan of disc brakes but this looks cool!
I would definitely suggest removing those wheels decals.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:05 pm 
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Here are some impressions of the ride and components after only riding it for 40 miles.

Background:
I'm a pretty experienced road rider having done a little road racing, crit racing and time trials over the last 20 years or so. I do about 3500 miles per year and my racing days are pretty much behind me. I was the happy owner of a C40 for about 15 years and have owned titanium bikes, steel bikes and carbon bikes. I was always a campag rider, but have recently moved over to di2 in my plan to modernise my bikes onto one standard of di2 and disc brakes. I recently built a Trek Boone which was a very impressive bike - in particular it was a lot stiffer than the colnago on out of the saddle steep climbs.

Overall:
One of my biggest concerns when ordering the c60 was that I wasn't going to be getting a bike that was too stiff and uncomfortable. The trek boone seems to have a magical comfort and stiffness balance that surprised me and set the bar high for whatever the c60 could offer. I needn't have worried because for me the c60 has a lot of the plushness of the trek whilst adding a very direct feeling to the handling and the ride. It definitely feels like it wants to go - I would say lively, but not tiring at all. Some of this difference could be down to the different tyres - on the boone I have the 28mm wide hutchinson sectors and on the c60 I have gone for the 23mm atom galactiks. I think both tyres are superb (both tubeless) and both have a tremendous supple feel, although of course the 23 mm galaktiks are definitely more racy.

Controls:
The MFCK handlebars feel like they are made of paper when you first pick them up, but out on the road they feel firm and strong. They have a very small drop and are arched slightly back along the top. I would say the designers are deliberately flattering the older rider (the only people who can afford this kind of stuff) and it works well. I probably would prefer a lower drop however the comfort on the hoods is excellent and a noticeable difference is the reach whilst on the drops to the di2 buttons is much improved on these bars versus my other more standard curve bars. Otherwise, what can you say about the stem (I'm not a sprinter so I don't bend stems) and the pedals which are dura ace. I also think the R785 levers are pretty well reviewed all round.

Drivetrain:

I've had a few problems with the shifting. I have written to praxis works 2 or 3 times and they haven't come back to me at all, which makes me disappointed. Basically the chain chafes/rubs against the outer front ring if the smallest sprocket at the rear is selected. I also had one hell of a job getting the bottom bracket bearings into the colnago cups. And then another hard job getting the cranks into the bearings. The clearances on this things are minute. The cranks are great, no noticeable flex and just work.

Maybe more thoughts to follow after a bit more riding...


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:07 pm 
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kgt wrote:
Not a fan of disc brakes but this looks cool!
I would definitely suggest removing those wheels decals.


Thanks. I was going to remove the decals, but they seem to be painted on. I was slightly tempted to colour them in with gold felt tip pen.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:52 pm 
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Also not a fan of disc brakes, visually speaking but otherwise...Bellisimo!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:44 pm 
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Location: Georgia
Can't guarantee it will resolve your shifting woes but I ran stronglight CT2 rings on my claviculas and it will definitely improve the aesthetics.

I'm another one in the no love for disc brakes brigade I'm afraid, but the bike looks great.

Would also vote to lose the wheel decals - and photo the bike big ring to little cog!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 1:30 am 
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Nice bike but I'm having some thoughts on your drive train issues. First, the tolerances in the bottom bracket area should be tight and you should have the proper tools to makes sure everything is in and nicely aligned. Wouldn't be alarmed there. But the rubbing of the chain on the inner side of the large ring could very well be a function of the disc brakes and 135mm rear spacing. It throws the chainline off what it would be on a normal 130mm spaced rear dropout and without compensation somewhere it can cause exactly the problem you are facing. I think Cervelo has come out with yet a new crank to deal with this on their new disc bikes. And Specialized has some special offset rear wheels I believe, so they don't have to increase the chainstay length, which in turn affects the tight handling of an otherwise nice race bike. In sum, the changes that have to be made to accommodate discs go beyond just beefier wheels and frames when it comes to a perfectly performing drive train. Let us know if there's a resolution other than people saying "well you shouldn't be in that gear combination anyway".

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 2:56 am 
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Calnago wrote:
the rubbing of the chain on the inner side of the large ring could very well be a function of the disc brakes and 135mm rear spacing. It throws the chainline off what it would be on a normal 130mm spaced rear dropout and without compensation somewhere it can cause exactly the problem you are facing.


Just to add to this, in addition to the wider rear end, it is also a Praxis issue that cannot be fixed short of a different ring design or simply placing the crank so far outboard that the chain line is completely changed. That is probably why you have not heard from Praxis - 'cause there is nothing they can do.

@ alanhuish, I also have a Boone disc (running Praxis rings) and I get serious big ring chain rub in the 11 and 12 and even a tiny bit in the 13. FWIW Sram Exogram runs totally clean. It just comes down to better chainring design (better shifting also). Sorry I am not sure if there are any ring options that will solve the problem for your THM crank - others may know.

Also, I see you are running 140 mm rotors? I tried them and stopping power was less then optimal. Have you tested them in a full on panic stop? 160 for me on the front, although 140 on the rear is fine.

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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 2:56 am 


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