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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 13, 2015 10:35 pm
Posts: 116
Thanks Clannagh

I was inspired by your Y Foil and used your write up on making the mould for the derailleur hanger as a basis for my process. So, thankyou!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:37 pm
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Cool, Im loving your 3D printer work looks amazing, I need a 3D printer!
Third and final year no pressure then! if you think I can help in any way just ask.
Good luck :thumbup:


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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:58 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:48 am 
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Just having a look at you wing mould, have you heard of Low melt thermoplastic moulding granules? you should be able to pick them up on eBay. Ideal for making fast prototype moulds. You add the granules to hot water they then form a malleable blob of plastic, form this around one half of your piece to be moulded, let it cool then form the other half. both sides can be cracked open once cooled, epoxy doesn't stick to it either so does away with all the mess of release agent etc. Speeds up the prototype/testing process no end and its reusable, drop you moulds back in hot water and they become malleable again ready to make a new mould. I guess you will have to try a bit on your 3D moulds first as it is probably made up of the same plastic but with a higher melt point so could stick to each other!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 1:05 pm 
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That's not a bad idea. I looked at a few different options including some epoxy compatible moulding putty that you add hardener to then work it by hand and form around your part. I have heard of that type of thermoplastic but it never occurred to me that I could use it for moulds. I will continue with the fibreglass mould for the moment as I have all the supplies for it. However I will pick up some thermoplastic stuff and see if I have any success.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:22 pm 
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Interesting thread and good luck. Definitely subscribing to this one.

A


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 3:29 pm 
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Posts: 116
Updates!

I had success with the fibreglass mould for the helicopter propeller so I have made a mould of the headtube.

I made an aluminium mandrel which can be disassembled and removed from the final part. The mandrel is the exact diameter of the final holes but a tad undersized. So this should provide a good inner diameter for the tubes and bearings.

I layed the carbon fibre up today and can already see some issues in the tighter corners but I will have to wait until it is out of the mould to see how it turns out. Experimentation and failure is the only way to learn!

I have spoken to clannagh and he has shown me a way to make inflatable bags for the inside of the mould which I will try after this attempt with the mandrels as I feel this will give guaranteed compression to all sections of the mould. This method will sacrifice the guaranteed hole sizes however if built oversize these can be machined out to spec.

Sorry for the picture dump. I still haven't figured out how to put pictures in the middle of text in Tapatalk.

ImageImageImageImageImage


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 12:22 pm 
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Posts: 116
I made a headtube lug. It is definitely not good enough to be a final part but it has been reasonably successful for a first try.

I used slow hardener which means I have a longer pot life but the cure time is at least 30 hours which may have caused a few problems. The main problem is that the aluminium mandrel is quite heavy and has no indexing points which caused it to sink to one side. This has caused one side of the part to have a thinner wall than the other. Some of the tighter corners have got some voids as well. The part is strong though.

I will put some pictures up but please don't judge too hard! I will make a internal bladder for my next attempt which should work a lot better.

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImage


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