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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:15 am 
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did the frameset come with seatpost?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:36 am 
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Nope bought it separately.

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Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:36 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 1:40 am 
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It's a slow burn this one. Super busy with training and kid stuff over the weekend so only had a small amount of time to work on the bike.

Anyway steerer is cut, Etap is setup. Super simple to setup and get it shifting, probably only took me about 10mins from the time i got it out of the box. Now I need to trim the brake lines then install and bleed the brakes. Not too far off now!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 2:05 pm 
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Finished. Well.almost. I didn't realise that SRAM changed the way the brakes are bled so of course my bleed kit doesn't work on the etap HRD brakes. Will drop by the shop to see of they can help me out tomorrow.

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Image

Final weight ended up being 6.97kg which is a little bit dissapointing TBH. I still need to change the tyres to the Schwalbe Pro Ones so that will probably shed some weight.

I was really hoping to get down to 6.8kg before I started swapping out parts for lighter weight versions but in the end I'm still happy to scrape in under the 7kg mark, especially with a relatively hefty wheelset.

Anyway it's midnight here so time for some sleep!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 2:14 pm 
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Ok couple more quick snaps. Will take some proper outdoor photos at some point.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 4:58 pm 
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nice looking bike!

AFAIK out of the box the HRD have fluid in the lines - perhaps a dumb question - but how did you deal with this?

I would assume it was necessary to carefully* dump the fluid the make sure all the fluid is cleaned up* and then do all the internal routing.

i dont understand why SRAM does this (i think it is called pre-bled) as i would imagine the vast majority of bikes - especially those that you would put red etap on - would have full internal routing, or at least internal for the rear (looking at you new disc emonda with your external fork routing)

* my understanding is the dot fluid is very corrosive to paint work so you need to be very careful


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 8:29 pm 
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Pretty much. I did my best to get as much of the fluid out as possible and then wiped down the bike. I also ran them from the calliper to the levers so the were less likely to drip inside the frame.

I have had some experience running the brake lines on my CAAD10 disc and didn't end up with any issues. It's true that the DOT fluid is pretty nasty stuff!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:11 pm 
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Location: Christchurch New Zealand
DOUG wrote:

Final weight ended up being 6.97kg which is a little bit dissapointing TBH. I still need to change the tyres to the Schwalbe Pro Ones so that will probably shed some weight.

I was really hoping to get down to 6.8kg before I started swapping out parts for lighter weight versions but in the end I'm still happy to scrape in under the 7kg mark, especially with a relatively hefty wheelset

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Looks good :thumbup:
6.97 is a reasonable start,
I'm struggling to get my disc bike under 7kg. , also with a hefty but excellent wheelset and dura ace/FSA mix.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 10:01 pm 
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Thanks! Yes its a bit more of a challenge than i first anticipated but happy to be sub 7kg to start with. I haven't weighed the Bontragers but I've seen them claimed at 329g in this reveiw!

http://road.cc/content/review/199706-bo ... less-ready

If that's actually the case then it's definitely worth giving the Pro Ones a go even if they aren't the most durable tyre by all accounts. would be about a 150g saving just by changing the tyres.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 12:11 am 
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First proper ride on the weekend and I was very pleased with how the bike went. 120km was a decent hit out on some pretty rough roads and I found it nice and compliant but still very much still race oriented. The thing is on rails around corners, even more so than my CAAD10 which i guess comes down to the increase lateral stiffness. Only niggle was the rear brake cable rattling inside the frame over the rough stuff which I will need to sort out.

I've already started looking at a lightweight build for the wheels. I'm thinking MCFK 35mm Rims on Extralite hubs with CX Ray spokes and nipple, should come out around 1250g possibly a bit less. There's nothing wrong with the Bontragers but just looking for something handbuilt and more lightweight than the current set of wheels.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 4:47 pm 
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Location: Physically in Montréal, but my mind is in the Pyrénées
The zip-tie spider trick around the cable hose works very well to avoid any annoying rattle, I did that on a Evo Hi-Mod Disc I helped a friend build this summer, it's dead silent. Ideally you put it on as you route the hose so it sits near the middle of the downtube, might be harder once the hose is connected but you could probably do it by taking the bars off and bring the lever as close to the frame's rear brake entry point (taking the bar tape off would give you more slack), slide the hose down so you could install the spider through the BB opening, then pull it up into the downtube.

In the meantime, I have found on other Evo Discs (we had a few as demo/rental bikes for a bike tour company I worked for this summer but the hoses came already routed and bled from the factory so I didn't bother touching them) that simply holding the rubber grommet at the entry point in it's place with one hand and pulling the hose out so it's tight and straight inside the frame helps but only temporarily as road vibration will have it slide down again eventually... Maybe put a little dab of glue or a small zip tie on the hose to stop it coming back down could help?

Anyway, very nice bike. :thumbup:

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Dan Gerous


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:43 pm 
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i wonder if you could pull it tight and then sugru the hose to the grommet ... ?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:27 am 
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Dan Gerous wrote:
The zip-tie spider trick around the cable hose works very well to avoid any annoying rattle, I did that on a Evo Hi-Mod Disc I helped a friend build this summer, it's dead silent. Ideally you put it on as you route the hose so it sits near the middle of the downtube, might be harder once the hose is connected but you could probably do it by taking the bars off and bring the lever as close to the frame's rear brake entry point (taking the bar tape off would give you more slack), slide the hose down so you could install the spider through the BB opening, then pull it up into the downtube.

In the meantime, I have found on other Evo Discs (we had a few as demo/rental bikes for a bike tour company I worked for this summer but the hoses came already routed and bled from the factory so I didn't bother touching them) that simply holding the rubber grommet at the entry point in it's place with one hand and pulling the hose out so it's tight and straight inside the frame helps but only temporarily as road vibration will have it slide down again eventually... Maybe put a little dab of glue or a small zip tie on the hose to stop it coming back down could help?

Anyway, very nice bike. :thumbup:

Yep i was actually thinking about giving the zip tie trick a go as well as it seems to be the most common solution.

Unfortunately the Toronova Team bars actually have internal routing which is great for asthetics and not having the cabling buldge under the tape but Ill need to remove the bar tape back to the hoods and re-bleed as a result. That's ok though because I didnt quite bleed the rear brake all that well in the first place so needed to do this anyway.

@jeffy Have tried pulling the cable tight and holding in place against the rubber grommet at the entry point with a zip tie or some electrical tape but it really only holds for 10-15km and then it just vibrates loose again. Its really the only little niggle I have left.


And thanks for the compliment! Hopefully will have some time this weekend to put a few more km's on it.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:41 pm 
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So I finally got around to putting the Pro Ones on. Weighed the Bontragers when I took them off and they are a bit on the heavy side!

Image

I put a bit of extra sealant back in each tyre when I fitted the Pro Ones as I have read they aren't the most puncture resistant tyre getting around. Saved about 100g all up so just squeezed under the 6.9kg mark.



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Last edited by DOUG on Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:46 pm 
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I also had my first fall on the new bike, through no fault of my own though. Was riding along a shared path I've ridden hundreds of times on my daily commute and rung my bell to go past a group of about 5 young guys. One of them basically tackled me off my bike, completely unprovoked and obviously unexpected. I think he hurt himself worse than he hurt me which is some consolation.

Anyway I landed on the grass and apart from a sore shoulder I'm otherwise fine. The bike didn't have a scratch on it either although the derailleur hanger was badly bent. I started to bend it back so I could still use it as a spare in a pinch but it was way too far gone.

RIP hanger. Welcome to cycling in Australia.

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Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:46 pm 


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