Dengfu FM098 – 2017 Build

[mikedkelly]

I haven’t seen a new build post on the FM098 for a while so I thought I would throw this out there and get any advice on how to improve. Here is the build list:


Final stem position


Weight as pictured – 6732 grams

Dengfu Non-ISP 52cm BB30 Frame 1089g
Fork 332g
Seat Post 133g
Seat Post Clamp 29g
Dengfu Headset 126g
Dengfu Headset Spacers 8g
Dengfu SD006 Carbon Saddle 111g
Saddle Clamp 55g
Dengfu FD009 Carbon Bottle Cage 35g
4x Bottle Cage Bolts 12g
Dengfu HB010 Carbon Handlebars + bolts 356g
Farsports 38mm x 20.5mm carbon front wheel 574g
Farsports 38mm x 20.5mm carbon rear wheel 727g
Farsports Front Skewer 20g
Farsports Rear Skewer 22g
Veloplugs 5g
SRAM Red Quarq DZero Cranks with 52/36 chainrings 751g
2x SRAM Aerolink Brake + pads 257g
2x eTap Shifter 264g
SRAM Brake Housing and Cables 96g
eTap Front Derailleur 158g
eTap Rear Derailleur 237g
SRAM XG-1190 11-28 11-Speed Cassette 167g
SRAM Red 22 Hollow Pin 11-speed Chain 228g
SRAM Bottom Bracket Set 60g
Handlebar Tape 40g
2x Look Keo 2 Max Pedal 262g
2x Tires Continental 4000s II 700 x 23C 424g
2x Continental Race Light Tubes 154g

The slipping seat post issues reported previously with this frame seem to be resolved. The resin on the leading edge of the seat post has been molded to feel like heavy grit sandpaper, and there are four gaps on the frame at the seat post entrance which provide good clamping force. I applied carbon grip paste inside the entrance on the frame and all down the covered part of the post. With 5nm of torque, it seems to be holding nicely.

Overall, I really like it so far. I'll be taking spacers out of the stem once I decide on whether I am keeping the integrated handlebars or going with a standard stem and bars. I would be receptive of any input you have and am happy to answer any questions you have about the ordering process, working with Dengfu, etc.

[dudemanppl]

But... why? Why not just get a non China frame? Also, that barstem offends me and my beliefs.

[wheelbuilder]

Nice color, and the etap is cool, but those bars! So much steer tube showing. Almost no bar drop. Is this your final riding position?

[Voye]

I just don't know what to think or say...

[mikedkelly]

Nice color, and the etap is cool, but those bars! So much steer tube showing. Almost no bar drop. Is this your final riding position?

The handlebar drop is 8cm using 50mm of spacers. The problem is the reach to the hoods is 6cm longer than what I am used to due to the unusual geometry of the bars, so I was hesitant to take too much off the steerer tube without riding it for a while. I may lower it by 20mm and try that out before making another cut, or eventually just replace the bars with a standerd stem and drops, which will let me slam it. I wanted to try these bars first because I liked the integrated stem and internal cable routing. I need to optimize for a 10 hr. ride without having to down 1000mg of ibuprofen to get through it.

[mikedkelly]

I just don't know what to think or say...

I posted this for the community of riders who are researching Chinese carbon frames, and who want to learn from the experience of others - as I did from other similar threads on this site. If your only motive is to be smug, I would suggest not saying anything.

[mikedkelly]

But... why? Why not just get a non China frame? Also, that barstem offends me and my beliefs.

My beliefs go a bit deeper than bicycle geometry so I can't really relate, but to the question about the frame - because an $8000 frame offends my checkbook.

[wheelbuilder]

Nice color, and the etap is cool, but those bars! So much steer tube showing. Almost no bar drop. Is this your final riding position?

The handlebar drop is 8cm using 50mm of spacers. The problem is the reach to the hoods is 6cm longer than what I am used to due to the unusual geometry of the bars, so I was hesitant to take too much off the steerer tube without riding it for a while. I may lower it by 20mm and try that out before making another cut. I need to optimize for a 10 hr. ride without having to down 1000mg of ibuprofen to get through it.

Fair enough. If that is 8cm, then it's the angle of the photo that makes it look like a lot less than that. I'm also thinking that the head tube is probably a little short on that bike, and you need something a little longer to get to your preferred position. If your goal is centuries, then good for you and keep it up! Just think maybe a more endurance oriented frame would be a better choice for you and your riding goals. An aero-ish frame with that many spacers looks weird imo, but I can't hate on anyone who is cycling for fitness. Only good things can come from that! Good luck!

[dudemanppl]

A CAAD 10 would ride nicer and they're only 350 bucks though? Plus you won't get ridiculed on WW.

[TonyM]

I ride quite expensive bikes but I do like your posting and what you have made and tried!! [emoji106][emoji122][emoji108]
Very good to share !! [emoji112][emoji122][emoji106]

[Stolichnaya]

Mike, the issue everyone is commenting on is the general position - it indicates that the frame is not right for your riding position. Fortunately, it appears to be only the bar choice. The frame's top tube would allow for a stem that rises slightly without looking awkward. The bars you have chosen also appear to have a long reach and deep drop. From your comments, this integrated combo is the opposite of what you need. I would recomment a stem that has some significant stack and a slight rise that mimics the top tube slope and then some compact bars. You would reduce some spacers and potentially stiffen up the front end. Some bars with raised hoods might also help here. Something like the FSA K-Wing Compact.

[m66]

Farsports 38mm x 20.5mm carbon front wheel 468g

Is this correct? Seems too light for a clincher..what hubs are you running?

[mrgray]

the frame looks very nice i think, particularly the clear coat around the name (which is also good). storno. nice one. such a thorough approach and so DIY. pretty cool. i kind of think cost is an aspect of this build so i would certainly be interested to hear what it cost to put together if you are willing to share that information.

re: position generally it is based on knee relative to cranks and most people will find that the tip of their saddle is behind the bb. for example i'm like 80 mm behind the bb (i guess this presumes a pretty standard saddle length). the more absolute standard i guess is knee over pedal spindle but you need some help to get that right i find.

anyway if you can shift your saddle back a bit your weight distribution gets better and you get better bike stability (makes a big difference on descents mainly). so if you feel wobbly at all, i would recommend getting that seat back a bit. that might also require a shorter stem but you may find it really improves your overall riding experience.

[mikedkelly]

re: position generally it is based on knee relative to cranks and most people will find that the tip of their saddle is behind the bb. for example i'm like 80 mm behind the bb (i guess this presumes a pretty standard saddle length). the more absolute standard i guess is knee over pedal spindle but you need some help to get that right i find.

That's great advice, thank you. I still need some work on the fit. The standover and saddle heights are on the mark, but as you said, I think the next step is getting the correct position over the BB and pedal spindle. The bike does feel a bit twitchy on downhill cornering, but I figured it was due to a slightly shorter wheelbase than my Cannondale. I think you are right that CG has a bigger impact than the -7mm of wheelbase distance. From there, I can adjust the stack and see if I need to go in another direction with the bars.

[mikedkelly]

Farsports 38mm x 20.5mm carbon front wheel 468g

Is this correct? Seems too light for a clincher..what hubs are you running?

Yes, it is surprisingly correct. They are unusually light with the wheelset coming in at 1200g. The hubs are EDHub. I'm guessing that they are able to get to that weight though a combination of the narrow profile, the lighter hubs, and a minimal layup, which requires a 90kg weight limit on the bike. They also make a UCI certified version, which is 23mm wide with DT Swiss hubs. I was nervous about structural integrity and braking temperatures, but there is a pretty sizable thread on this site with good reports on the wheels. I've also found the braking surface to be barely luke-warm after several minutes of heavy downhill braking.