Under UCI limit for les than 1000 €

[pahorpe]

Hi,

i found a used Focus Cayo Evo 4.0 for 650€, size S, with ultegra 10, Mavic ksirium premium wheels an Look Keo pedals. Now it weighs 7,5 kg and I was wondering if I can make it sub 6,8 kg with a 350€ budget. The bike I fuond look like this:

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/14889873/

Which parts should I change? I was thinking about the crankset - a FSA SLK compact?, I have 3T carbon bars which I paid 45€ and are 199 g, then a carbon seatpost and a carbon GUB seat, maybe the stem... What about some light tubes like Tubolito? Should I change the shifters for some Force 22 and the rear deralieur?
I can sell the parts I change and fit in the 1000 € budget even if I pay more than 350€...

[Kayrehn]

To save 700g, the fastest way is to get carbon tubular wheels. Changing crankset will yield you the most amount of weight savings probably, beyond that, any single part will be unlikely to save you more than 50g unless it's a premium ww item (any one of which will. Immediately burst that €350 budget). I think you'll have to scape back your expectations there..

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[Grobar]

A used seatpost is a good idea as it can be really cheap, a kalloy uno stem with titanium bolts can save you 30-50g for 30$, also a light aluminium wheelset coud drop some more significant weight, in my area you can find shamal ultra 2 ways C15 for approximatively 400$. Or maybe try tubulars... Saddles in my opinion are expensive and I would not look in that direction unless you go for a chinese one.

[IvanZg]

If you come close to the budget and you still have some more grams to shave off you can always strip the frame and fork of paint

[Konsi]

I paid only 110 Euros for a used FSA SL-K crankset – look out for used parts, especially cranksets are often sold when someone switches to a PM.

[Nozes]

First of all: Weight all that you can and make a chart. It's the easy way to simulate and control every change you make or plan to make.

If you're ok with buying stuff from ebay or Aliexpress,you'll find great stuff for little money,like generic aluminum links brake and shifting housing (save around 100gr for 30€),carbon saddles (150gr for 30€),carbon seatpost (130gr for 25€).

Check if the cassete is Ultegra or (most probably) 105,there's a big weight diference. Tubolito tubes are not cheap,but it's a great weight saving.
Titanium bolts anywhere possible...any part deserves a second and third look.

You can get some ideas from my build here

[pahorpe]

The wheelset is a Mavic ksiryum Sl premium so it is pretty light. And the price for the bike was 600€ at the end. So I have a 400€ budget for an used light crankset, ultralite tubes, a Chinese setpost, titanium skewers, uno stem, gub seat and some link housing... maybe even Force shifters and deraliuer. What about some cheap light pedals? Time?

[Mosbo]

Skewers and Gub seat (you mentioned) will be good buys. Don't know what seat you have on there now but you could easily drop 60-80g from stock skewers and 100g+ from the seat for very little money.

Chop the steerer and remove any spacers too (slam that stem!). If not done already that'd be 20-30g+ probably and free!

Tyres are another good option to look at, as well as light weight tubes which you mentioned. Depends what you have now but it's pretty easy to shave another 100g+ with tyre size/choice. I second the Tubolito tubes if you want to go really light weight, but durable. Go latex if you care more about ride quality.

Check what cassette you have on there too. There could be a big saving going to a second hand, higher tier model. Sram Red 10 speed cassette is 150-160g depending on cogs you need.

Seatpost and stem I find can be relatively expensive for the saving. If you're going alu to alu that is. But again depends what you have now. Weigh your current seatpost first and see what you can save. They're also areas I wouldn't skimp on personally.

As you say your wheels are already light, but there's still 200g+ you could easily save on a tight budget by going to some second hand carbon tubulars. Probably not ideal if you prefer to stick to clinchers though.

I'm only part way through but doing a <6.8 build for roughly the same budget myself you can check out here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=156808
It's tough but it's totally doable for that kind of money. I'm a newbie to all of this myself too, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt! Just thought i'd reply since we seem to be working towards similar goals!

[pahorpe]

Do anyone know if it is possible tu run a Sram SRAM PG-1070 12-32 cassette with an Ultegra 6700 medium cage derailleur? The cage has a 30T mark so according to Shimano it is not possible but I was wondering if anyone made it work anyway tightening the b-screw? The frame is a Focus cayo evo.

[DartanianX]

You can take the B-Screw out and thread it in from below (ie have the head of the screw on the hanger) and you’ll get more clearance.

32T should be fine, Shimano always play it safe on recommend cog size.


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[Mosbo]

I run 32T on my CX bike with a 105 5800 short cage derailleur no probs. Shimano says max 28 for my derailleur so if yours says max 30 you will be able to run 32 just fine. Probably won’t even need to rotate the b screw as mentioned above, but works fine that way if you need to (that’s what I have done on mine)