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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 10:52 pm
Posts: 630
Location: Dela-Where?
I finished building my race bike for the season only to discover there's more to life than amateur bike racing. Well My slammed BMC TMR02 is great for racing but it's not much fun for riding all day. So I'm keeping my TMR and building up an Evo on the side. I'm aiming for sub 6kg but with an alloy bar and a set of alloy clinchers with a powertap.


Second hand frame looks like it was never ridden.
Image



The BB is a bit confusing, seller told me pf30, frame says bb30 but has what appear to be reusable alloy pf30 cups installed...anyone know if I can just knock these out an put in a normal pf30?
ImageImage

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Last edited by prebsy on Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:05 pm 
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Location: Northamptonshire UK
I'm a huge fan of these frames so I'll be watching with interest.


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Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:05 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:39 pm 
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Posts: 70
Location: Seattle, WA
I just built up the same frame. You can 100% knock out that cup and put a standard PF30 bottom bracket.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 8:19 pm 
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Location: Bay Area
Had that same frame a few years back and loved it.

I'm building up my old man bike and see no reason why carbon rims and carbon bars can't be used for a daily driver. If anything the minimal compliance is even nicer.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:18 am 
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Well the goal is sub 6kg and there were better g/$ decisions to get there. Also the bar choice speaks for itself...

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:53 pm
Posts: 50
No need to remove the bb cups, just get some 6806 angular contact bearings from Wheels Mfg.

For quiet BB30, I use a mix of waterproof bearing grease and microballoons as a thickening agent, between the spindle and the inner races. And just grease between the bearings and cups.

This is a great frame, enjoy it


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 4:58 pm
Posts: 22
prebsy wrote:
The BB is a bit confusing, seller told me pf30, frame says bb30 but has what appear to be reusable alloy pf30 cups installed...anyone know if I can just knock these out an put in a normal pf30?


None of the recent Supersix frames are BB30. They are all PF30, or PF30a. Despite what the frame says - so very straightforward of Cannondale. So yes, knock it out.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:36 am 
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Location: Bay Area
Got my 3T Rotundo LTD off eBay for $100, 180g on the dot on the scale. Just gotta wait!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:26 pm
Posts: 205
sk1324 wrote:
prebsy wrote:
The BB is a bit confusing, seller told me pf30, frame says bb30 but has what appear to be reusable alloy pf30 cups installed...anyone know if I can just knock these out an put in a normal pf30?


None of the recent Supersix frames are BB30. They are all PF30, or PF30a. Despite what the frame says - so very straightforward of Cannondale. So yes, knock it out.


I think Cannondale is marketing the cranks or the "standard." So, while all EVOs are PF30(a) and all CAAD10/12s are BB30(a), the cranks are (Hollowgrams) are BB30 (or BB30a). Same crank and spindle regardless of where the BB30 bearings sit.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:42 pm
Posts: 611
Location: Pa USA
numberSix wrote:
No need to remove the bb cups, just get some 6806 angular contact bearings from Wheels Mfg.

For quiet BB30, I use a mix of waterproof bearing grease and microballoons as a thickening agent, between the spindle and the inner races. And just grease between the bearings and cups.

This is a great frame, enjoy it

This. They require a high preload, but are really nice. As in "I prefer them to ceramic" nice. I used a new set of wheels cups, but you can use the alloy cups in place. I'd add a bit of loctite to be sure.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:44 am 
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KWalker wrote:
Got my 3T Rotundo LTD off eBay for $100, 180g on the dot on the scale. Just gotta wait!


I've yet to own a traditional bend bar in carbon that doesn't feel like a noodle. For some reason I have never had the same problem with "ergo" bends or whatever that crap is called :lol: . For reference I've had the rotundo LTD in a 40cm and a zipp slv2 TB in a 38cm and have been really disappionting. For me it's paramount that this bike rides like a dream even if it means a slight weight penalty.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 10:52 pm 
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Location: Bay Area
Weird- I had them measured in a deflection jig and the results were in line with FWB's stiffer bars.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 11:29 pm 
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On my C59 I started with the Rotundo Ltd and the 3T Team stem. Didn't like the flex. Swapped for the Deda Zero 100 Shallows (alloy) and the Deda Zero100 stem and things were much much better. Also, while the side profile of the two bars are very similar, the transition curve from the tops to the levers starts sooner on the Dedas than the 3T's and I personally find it much nicer as it provides just that little bit more clearance for you wrists when you're in the drops, sprinting for example. By far and away my favorite bars.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 12:37 am 
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Location: Bay Area
I and the mechanics of the test jig must not be a watt monster then. Not to sidetrack the thread, but the data just isn't there to support the flex argument. If only the Campione were around and lighter....

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 1:10 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 1:27 pm
Posts: 490
This generation of SS EVO is PF30, not BB30.


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Posted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 1:10 am 


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