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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:03 pm 
Hello. I have been scouring eBay for the past year or so trying to see if I could find a lightweight frame that won't break the bank. I eventually spotted a Scott Addict R3 with an integrated seatpost.

I looked at the measurements and the post was cut to 69cm from the BB. My saddle height on my current frame is 70cm so I felt that this addict would probably fit. The listing was poorly done and the pictures didn't inspire much confidence as the paint chips where photographed in bad light so it was hard to determine if they were just paint chips or actual cracks in the carbon.

I decided to gamble on the frame after reading some threads on here about Scott Addicts back in 2010. It seems that there was a change in carbon layup or modulus at some point? The newer HMF frames were heavier it seems. However even the heaviest of Addicts should save a minimum of 500g in comparison to my current frame. So I went ahead with the purchase. I bid and got the frame and forks for £121!

Enough rambling. Here is a photo.
[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170127/9edd07ce30ce9b0505c4d95d6d6b1eee.jpg[/IMG]
The frame weighs 1045g with the 7900 pressfit BB in there which should weigh ~70g. So I am pleased that I have a sub 1Kg frame.

I will be transferring parts from my previous build onto this frame but I do have some new parts. Primarily I have got a set of SRAM Force compact cranks in 170mm as I am intrigued to see the difference as I have 175mm on my other bike.

Thanks for reading all my waffle if you have got this far. I need to decide whether to strip the paint of the frame and forks. I feel that there is some serious potential savings as the paint is very thick. However I have read that Scott sometimes use lots of filler in the tube junctions and it could turn into an ordeal. Any opinions are welcome.

Thanks


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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:03 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:03 pm 
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Double post. Thanks for merging the threads moderator.


Last edited by euph on Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:06 pm 
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It seems that my thread has duplicated. If a moderator can perhaps delete this thread and leave the other one that would be great. Sorry for the double topic!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:31 pm 
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Posts: 340
Location: The Netherlands
Hi, it's probably a 2009 model. I had one for half a season because my Chinarello broke. I decided against stripping it because it seemed like too much of a hassle, however the graphics did look kind of dated (and I wasn't a huge fan of the creme white / gold combo to start with).

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 1:08 pm 
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Thanks for the correction on the year. I was unsure about 2010. I was worried that the graphics might look dated but I quite like how they look so far. Although I haven't seen it built up yet


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:28 am
Posts: 3
Use the carbon paint remover, then have it re-sprayed in a thinner coat to cover up the ugliness that Scott leaves at the tube joints. Black is always the go to color, but if you respray the options are endless for you. A decent re-spray at a local auto body shop shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred bucks. Even if you strip the paint and go with the bare carbon I would still have it clear coated and you could rattle can the joints with matt black then coat the whole frame in clear coat which would still be lighter than the factory paint.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 13, 2015 10:35 pm
Posts: 116
I got my local bike shop to press the bottom bracket out as it had a completely seized 7800 set of bearings in it. Removing them brought the frame to just under 1Kg. With the derailleur hanger, cable guide and bottle cage bolts removed the frame weighs 967g. It still has the headset cups in but I see no need to risk damaging them to try and remove them.
Image

I have started removing the paint.
Image

Might be a slow one. Spent an hour and a half sanding and have only done 2/3rds of the headtube!

Thanks for reading


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 9:17 pm 
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Done some more sanding.

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 12:03 am 
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Use some paint remover!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 12:12 am 
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I considered using it just to soften the paint. But really don't want to risk damaging the carbon. Is that the right thinking?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 3:29 am 
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It's a little late now, but really... why haven't you popped out the headset cups. You're wrecking them. I presume you're going to repaint? The finished product will look so much better if you remove the cups, finish the frame then put them back in afterwards. Although it looks like you've already scuffed up the anodization on the lips of the cups.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 1:16 pm 
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I did think about the cups before starting this but I don't have the tools to to press them out. I will be painting the cable stops as they are too difficult to sand. So when I paint them I will mask off the headset cups and repaint them as well. Not ideal I know.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 6:59 pm 
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Hello again everyone.

I have been busy scraping and sanding. No pictures unfortunately as the lighting is appalling in my room and we have ran out of daylight today. Perhaps I will try and get some on the weekend.

The frame is now at 862g! So it has lost 105g of paint. I could take more off however I haven't started on the fork yet and I am sincerely bored of sanding by now. When I did my research I saw that other people who have tried to take the paint off this generation of Addict have had trouble with the filler. Kevosinn combated that by painting the troublesome areas to give a lugged look to the frame. I have been very tempted to do that at various points but hopefully the extra work will pay off as I think the layup is amazing in these areas.

Kevosinn's Addict - http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=133214

I am planning to finish the frame with a matte clear coat and some simple logos. Probably go with a Scott logo on the headtube and maybe "Addict" written on each side of the top tube just behind the headtube. Godzuki26's wife's Hi-Mod build is definitely an inspiration for this however I have no hope of pulling it off as professionally as him.
-> http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141018

Anyway. I had a play on Excel and dug up some receipts from parts I plan to transfer from my other bike to calculate what the total weight and cost will be. It wont be any superlight build like the two I have referred to above but I am hoping for sub 7Kg for sub £1000. In the future I can definitely save weight on the wheels and be "UCI Illegal"

I have one question for all the more experienced people on here though. Should I press the bottom bracket in myself so as to ensure that the correct procedure is applied? or just take it to my LBS and trust him? I have never asked him to fit a pressfit BB before so I am wary to do so. Especially after hearing of the dreaded creak. I am eager to support my LBS though and I would rather not have to buy any BB tools/Loctite/Primer or grease right now.

Thanks for looking.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 7:28 pm
Posts: 1166
I think bb86 press fit is a little easier than bb30 since the bearings are already part of the cups you're pressing into the frame and there's no snaprings or other weirdness. I've only installed once, and I used neither grease nor loctite, but I've only got maybe 6 rides on the bike thus far so can't comment on long term creakiness.


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Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:32 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:51 pm 
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Posts: 116
That's a relief to hear. I just offered the bearings up to frame and it seems like a very tight fit so I am a bit more relaxed. I have only just noticed the differences now you have pointed them out.

Thanks.


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