Disclaimer: Bear with me here... this part starts to get into some minutiae that I'm sure will start to make eyes roll if you're not into this sort of thing. So feel free to skip to the final set of pics if you like (they will be up soon I hope). But I promised myself I'd make this thread as complete as possible so damnit, I must press on...
So, with chain installed, it's time to dial all the shifting in. Quick note on the SR Derailleur... with the new post 2015 rear derailleur, there is a new screw (call it the B-Screw) on the derailleur that can push the derailleur back a bit from the derailleur hanger tab. When first released there was no documentation on this screw at all, and people asked what it was for (I still don't know if there's any documentation). Anyway, since the new derailleurs have more of a "wrap" or "embrace" effect around the front of the cassette, I suppose some frames might actually need the derailleur to be brought rearward a bit and that's what this screw will do. However, on the Colnagos that I've built, and as I showed in the derailleur hanger diagram in a previous post, this is not an issue at all but rather the opposite, the issue is getting the derailleur forward enough. So, to date I have never had to use that screw on a Colnago build and I would recommend leaving it in it's factory supplied state, which is completely backed off if you're building a Colnago with it.
I'm not going to go into details on dialing in the rear derailleur as it's no different than it's always been. Just make sure the limit screws are set properly, the cable tension is adjusted with all slack remove, and you should be good save for maybe some very fine tuning at the end of everything.
The front derailleur on the other hand, is not at all like pre-2015 front derailleurs. If you adjust it like you did prior to 2015, you will most likely not get it dialed in very well, if at all, unless you get supremely lucky (ok, now do it again
). In it's lowest position (most inboard), it will take no more, and no less than 3 clicks to move the chain (from any position on the cassette) to the big ring from the small ring. If it takes less than 3 (from the lowest position), the tension is too high. If it doesn't get up to the big ring in three clicks, two things might be happening... 1) the cable tension may be too low, or 2) the outer limit screw may be too tight. While initially adjusting the front derailleur, leave the outer limit screw completely backed off, so that you could actually throw the chain to the outside if you moved the lever far enough providing there is enough cable tension. Final setting of the outer limit screw should be the very last step. I'm not going to go into all the details here that you can get from the instructions etc., but will say what I do, for my own bikes, but might not necessarily do for people's bikes that are going to have someone else work on them, including shop mechanics. Namely, that would be a choice between installing or not installing the inline cable adjuster.
I'll say that I really hate the inline adjusters messing up my front cabling. They are butt ugly, and they provide a point of entry however small for the elements (water, dust, dirt) to get in to your cable housing. The thing is, you need to be able to fine tune the tension when the chain is on the big ring and largest rear sprocket. So, in the absence of that inline adjuster, which looks to be like one of the best I've seen when compared to some of the others, I use a fourth hand tool to grab the cable from the front derailleur while it is on the big ring, loosen off the cable set bolt, use the fourth hand tool to get the derailleur very close to, but not touching, the chain when it is completely crossed (big/big), and then lock it down. It's probably difficult to visualize, so if you get that then good; if not... then stick in the inline adjuster and save yourself a whole lot of hassle. At this point, with the cable now set and locked down, you can adjust the outer limit screw and set it. Oh, for both the outer and lower limit screws, I put a small dab of Loctite 222 (purple, low strength) on the threads as these screws can turn quite easily on their own. This will keep them from vibrating loose over time. Campagnolo used to do this as a matter of course but it seems they've stopped. It only takes a second to do and will slightly "lock" your perfect adjustment in. Just don't use so much as to gunk things up.
Run through all the gears etc., making sure it shifts into any combination from any combination... no combination should be off limits, and all combinations, including cross chained combos should be accessible and noise free. One very slight exception to this might be a tiny rub of the chain on a lift pin of the inside of the big ring when in the extreme crossed position of small/small. I can hear it slightly, but once the chain has settled in with lube on it has been completely quite. As an aside, I like to use Duo-Monde Tech Lite since it is very water resistant, and coats the drive train with almost a waxy type of feel, yet it is not a "wax". It can tend to get messy if you never maintain it, but all I ever use is water with a little dish soap in a Park Tool cleaner, perhaps a brush and a rag and fresh water rinse to get sandy grit off and I'm good to go. But back to the adjustment...
When you're on the big ring, there is no "Trim", unlike pre 2015 front derailleurs. Once you're on the big ring, if it is adjusted correctly you should be able to access ANY of the rear cogs cleanly, without the chain rubbing on the front derailleur. When you want to drop it down to the small ring, just use one full motion to the STOP (this stop is new as of 2015). There will be two clicks, the first one you just pass right through as it does nothing on the way from the big to the small, and the second click will be when it hits the stop (there is a physical metal bar in the left front shifter that you can see if you look inside from the bottom). This position is a temporary stop and is intended to help prevent a chain drop to the inside. Unlike pre 2015 stuff, where you could slam the front derailleur through all its clicks to it's lowest position in one fell swoop, the new derailleur will take two motions by design. So, the first motion gets you from the large to the small ring, and you will be able to access all but the two or three largest cogs without rub, then the second motion will move it to it's lowest point where you will be able to access the largest cogs noise free. It works very well and I'm not sure a chain catcher is even necessary with this new design, but for insurance purposes I'd still use one and in my case I use it for insurance and also for the SRM magnet feature.
Ok... I'm going to leave that dissertation on Campy setup as is. If some of it helped, great. If you find it hard to understand or need clarification, say so... sometimes when you've done it you forget how much head scratching you went through when you first did it yourself. On my first installation of the new derailleur, I spent hours on it playing around with different tensions and figuring out how to adjust it without the inline tension adjuster. I just wanted to know and understand how it all worked. I think I went through two front derailleur cables as I loosened and tightened, loosened and tightened, over and over again till I "got it" and really understood how the thing was designed and intended to work.