Hey Calnago, noticed you have no Campy cable adjuster. I never felt there is a reason for them if your stuff dialed in just right. Are you in the same camp?
The thing is, that "if" you mention is quite a big "if" when it comes to dialing in the front derailleur of a 2015+ front derailleur without the adjuster. Getting that front derailleur "dialed" is not the same task as setting up a pre 2015 derailleur, yet a lot of folks seem to go about it the same way. I omit the cable adjuster on my bikes only. For any bike that isn't mine, I always install it because dialing it in without it usually results in a front derailleur that is anything but "dialed in".
The tension on that cable is so important (which is why the cable adjuster was introduced in 2015) for proper shifting. When in the big ring, you should be able to cleanly use every cog in the back with no front derailleur rub.
A very brief description of how I dial it in is this:
1. Make absolutely sure the front derailleur is dead parallel to the front chain ring.
2. Back off the high limit screw so that it would be easy to throw the chain to the outside of the big chain ring (this ensures that it won't interfere with the next step.
3. Screw the lower limit screw in so that it pushes the derailleur cage out so that it almost touches the chain when the chain is on the big/big combo (crossed). Pull the derailleur out with your hand while you do this so as not to stress the threads on the lower limit screw anymore than necessary.
4. Using a fourth hand tool to pull the derailleur cable while it is loosely connected to the derailleur to get the tension just right. While doing this, the left lever should be in the 3rd click position (where it would be when the chain is on the big ring).
5. Using the fourth hand tool, ensure that the inner plate of the derailleur cage is about as close to the chain as you can get it without rubbing (with the chain in the big/big combo). Tighten down the cable pinch bolt enough so that it holds while you test it out.
6. Back off the lower limit screw so that the derailleur can move to it's lowest position and be in the small/small combo.
7. Shift the left button two clicks in one fell swoop to shift chain to the small ring. There should still be rubbing if the chain is on the biggest rear cog. This is by design... as the 2015+ front shifter has a bar in it that prevents a complete throw (unlike pre 2015 shifters), thus greatly reducing the chance of a chain drop on the inside. One more click will get the derailleur to the lowest position. Make sure the lower limit is backed off enough to allow the derailleur to move all the way over. If the cable tension is too tight, it won't go far enough over and you will have to slacken off the tension a bit by going through the above process again. NOW, if you had the cable adjuster installed, you would just use that to both tighten and loosen it enough to get it perfectly adjusted. So, this is why the cable adjuster is so important. Because until you have a lot experience setting it up without the cable adjuster, it's just a whole lot easier with it.
8. If the small/small runs cleanly with no derailleur rub, then set the lower limit screw to where it needs to be at that point.
9. Ok, now play with some testing. From the small/small (and the front shifter at it's lowest point with no more button pushes available), it should take exactly three clicks to move the chain to the big ring while still on the largest cog. Once there, there should be no rub, and if you want to ride big/big, go for it, any cog, any time.
10. Move the rear derailleur all the way down to the smallest cog. Now, shift back and forth between the big and small ring. It should do this easily. Once satisfied that you can get to the big ring easily from anywhere no matter where the chain is on the cassette, then set the upper limit screw as the last step while on the big ring and smallest cog. Test again, to make sure you can still easily get to the big ring from the small ring no matter where the chain is on the rear.
11. The front derailleur will require either 1,2, or 3 clicks to move from the small ring to the large ring, depending on where the front shifter was at the time. One test I like to do is to move the chain to the smallest cog while on the small ring. Shift the front shifter two clicks, not three. It should not have shifted to the big ring, but the small/small combo should be running cleanly. Now, while the chain is in small/small and the front shifter is in it's second click position, give it one more click to ensure that that's all it needs to move the chain from the small ring to the big ring. If it does, you're golden, pat yourself on the back and go have a beer. I like this last test, because moving the chain to the big ring from the small ring while the chain is on the small rear cog is sometimes the most difficult, and if you can do this easily with just that final last 3rd click, as opposed to a full sweep of the lever, then you know you've got it pretty well dialed.
12. Everything should be good and stay that way for a long time. I've found campy derailleur cables stretch very little if at all. But on a new build, I still usually like to leave the chain on the big ring up front, and somewhere in the middle to larger cogs of the cassette when not in use for about a week, just so that there is always some tension on the cable just to allow things to settle in at the beginning. Once settled, and you're sure no more adjustment is required I generally leave the drive chain in the small/small combo when not in use just to let everything be as "relaxed" as possible. No plug in required.
I think I meant to outline these steps somewhere in the thread but then thought it might just add to the confusion for most people. I can pretty easily set up a system without the inline adjuster first time through at this point, but concede that it is a whole lot easier to do with it installed. I just don't like it on my bike for aesthetic reasons... kind of like the junction box and loose wires faffing about on electric systems.
[Edit]: Hmmm, for whatever reason this post isn’t showing up correctly in Tapatalk and missing almost all of the content. Yet it seems to show up fine on the full web version on my computer. Oh well... one of life’s mysteries which I can’t be bothered to solve right now.