Third Time's a Charm: Litespeed T3

[RyanH]

Ha! No, I was troubleshooting a creak to make sure it wasn't the wheel. I've replaced the BB already and it's still creaking so it's driving me nuts. But, if I come back to something it means it was the best I've tried to date. Boras are hands down the best wheels of the 14 sets I've had in the past year. And...well, that's it. Sisl2 is there because it's one of the lightest srm units and that's all it has going for it. They are likely to break and the Red 22 is a much better design but it's significantly lighter than a Quarq.

I'm on the fence about the Lightweights though. On smooth tarmac they're a treat but 95% of my riding is less than ideal roads. I guess that's not even accurate because Boras with Vlaanderen pumped up to 80/85 psi are insanely addictive. So, I like the idea of lightweight and what it represents but on a pure performance standpoint, Boras are the best.

[jmagoulas]

Looks very nice Ryan and I agree the Bora wheels are the best on the market. I was looking around for other wheels to try out, Corima MCC but after putting the Bora Ultra 50 on, there is no looking back. Campy makes an amazing wheelset. Even better when you have to service the hub. So easy.

I'm intrigued to see how you kept the valve stem at bay? Looks very clean and I am hunting around for ideas on how to keep that dreeded valve knock harnessed.

Thanks in advance.

[Nefarious86]

Electrical tape is the easiest way to stop rattles. I use these on most of my wheels.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

[RyanH]

Yeah, take a small piece of electrical tape, about an inch long and in the middle make a small pierce with scissors or knife. It should be just big enough to get the head on the valve through while being tight around the base.

[Attermann]

Yeah, take a small piece of electrical tape, about an inch long and in the middle make a small pierce with scissors or knife. It should be just big enough to get the head on the valve through while being tight around the base.

Sounds like a great friday night

[glepore]

Back to powermeters? Thought you swore them off.
How much lighter is a gxp srm than a gxp quarq? Worth the price differential and non user servicable battery? I know you had a bad Quarq experience before.

[AZR3]

Back to powermeters? Thought you swore them off.
How much lighter is a gxp srm than a gxp quarq? Worth the price differential and non user servicable battery? I know you had a bad Quarq experience before.

It’s RyanH, what’s old is new again! Lol

Plus he can answer any questions anyone has on bikes and components

And we get to ogle all the sweet stuff he tries out

[RyanH]

@glepore they're close to the same weight (like within 5 to 10g of each other in compact). I think standard may actually weigh more in the SRM version since it has two batteries instead of just one. This SRM weighs 122g.

I've had 5 Quarqs and 3 (now 4) SRM. In short, I think the Quarq are a better deal BUT 3 of my 5 Quarqs had water egress issues which killed them and 1 just died for some unknown reason. Quarq customer service is pretty good and they'll replace the spider out of warranty for $500 which I feel is a good deal since it comes with a 2 year warranty. All of my Quarq read similarly and were comparable to SRM.

I think the new Dzero are technologically much more advanced though. So, why get srm? Cause they have lighter crankset options and are more reliable.

Regarding why I got a powermeter, it's because I'm contemplating doing Haute Route Pyrenees. Although after seeing my friend's power numbers for HR SF I'm kinda having second thoughts. My friend finished with Levi Leiphemer the first day and basically, if you took my personal bests for 20 minutes and 50 minutes and then strung them together in a 100 mile ride without a drop in power between each repeated effort and then finished the last 10 minute climb at over 90% of a max fresh effort, that's what they did. We'll see... My form is coming along nicely right now (I only lost 10s to Phil Gaimon last weekend on a roughly 8 minute effort) but getting to the HR level would be a huge leap.

Oh, there was one other reason too, I might be able to get an early production unit of a device called the AeroPod and I figured I'd do round two of my aero testing.

[NiFTY]

Yeah, take a small piece of electrical tape, about an inch long and in the middle make a small pierce with scissors or knife. It should be just big enough to get the head on the valve through while being tight around the base.

Sounds like a great friday night

I chuckled.

[RyanH]

I'm having trouble tracking down a creak. I have a new BB coming tomorrow but I've replaced the BB with 2 other used ones and they creak too. Swapped cranks, still a creak. Swapped wheels too and even checked the rd hanger.

To make the noise, I have to press the crank arms on one side and it will make a one time noise and then I have to go to the other side before it'll do it again. I can't get it to make a noise by pressing in the chainstays.

I redid the BB a 3rd time, this time with copper paste on the shell and the noise didn't dull at all. Greased the spindle and no change. I'm hoping a new, fresh BB will fix this but for some reason I'm not hopeful. Any other ideas?

[dudemanppl]

Its probably because you're a big bully.

[NiFTY]

Have you tightened yhe hollowgram lockring with loctite

[RyanH]

This is with Hollowgram, Red and Quarq.

[pdlpsher1]

Recently I had a bad creak on my tandem with a PF30 BB and a BB386EVO crank. It turned out the noise was coming from the metal to metal contact between the aluminum crank spindle and the BB bearing. I then switched the BB to a Sram PF30 BB, one that uses an integrated dust shield and sleeve. The sleeve acts as a spacer between the crank spindle and the BB bearing, thus eliminating metal to metal contact. The bike is now silent.

[Lightweenie]

Did you rule out the rear skewer/dropout surface, and the chainring bolts?