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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:22 pm 
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A couple of suggestions for the junction A, upated with pics

Inside the stem, i have run slots into the stem where i want the Di2 wires to enter from the shifters on either side and drill a couple of small holes in the underside to allow access to the reset button with a small allen key, and a view of the LED lights. I mount the junction A into a piece of model board foam bonded into the stem to ensure it stays aligned,

ImageIMG_4933 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

My CX bike has the junction A inside the fork steerer, made possible by the use of an Acros i-lock ai 69 top cap bearing preload assembly, same type that Canyon use, there is one designed for focus bikes that is 1 1/8" its light with a stack that is reasonable, if you don't run many spacers under the stem.
This uses a grub-screw to drive the 2 ramped sections of the top cap assembly apart to preload the bearing, its also relatively cheap

https://shop.acros.de/spare-parts/heads ... iber-focus

ImageIMG_4984 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_4992 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr
ImageIMG_5041 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

Again the stem is slotted top and bottom where it clamps the steerer to allow the di2 cables to enter. This is made easier by using strips of electronic ribbon cable stripped down to 2 core instead of the normal Shimano cables, just solder on to 50mm lengths of Di2 cable with the plugs on, and heat-shrink over the top.

I have integrated an EW67 junction A into the frame on a 1x CX build, set it in where a shift cable entry point was, superglued it in place then carbon effect vinyl to give a neat finish,

ImageIMG_4969 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr

Or attached to the bars, with a shaped block to blend it in, again made out of lightweight model foam with carbon effect vinyl wrap over the top, i got this idea from the carbon hoops on the bars used as brake cable guides. that is an EW67 junction A hiding on the underside of the bars

ImageIMG_4912 by Paul Townsend, on Flickr


It even gives you a weight weenie wiring solution as the wires can be made just the right length and soldered up to negate the need for a junction B.


Last edited by motorapido on Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:22 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 2:08 am 
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Nefarious86 wrote:
Run it under the tape and drill the end of the bar near the junction. Option B could be under the saddle similar to on Rich's Shiv? Plenty of ways to hide it and its cables.



ms6073 wrote:

godzuki26 wrote:
Mounting it under the stem is ugly as *f##k*. Any suggestions? Please :D

Given your skill set, I would think it would not be difficult for you to adapt a Shimano EW-RS910 Internal A Junction box into the frame, otherwise the standard junction could get hidden behind the underside of the seat.


Here's a pic of my under seat mount... Its a 3d printed mount that I had the designer custom design for me. He's got it in his store now.

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Thank you for suggestions on hiding the junction box. I have seen Cavendish mount his box under his saddle but not nearly as clean as CrankAddictRich's setup. Thanks for the link to the 3D printing site. I would have never found that site. Motoropido's suggestion will completely hide the box and I really like it. I will look into that route too.

To everyone my wife enjoys riding now. She is still restricted to trails because she still thinks that if she has the right of way she can enter an intersection without making eye contact with the driver. There are too many distracted drivers out here and I am hoping she will adapt to becoming a "defensive rider". I really do not enjoy riding with her as she flips off and cusses at every driver on the road saying things like "they should have stopped" or "they should have seen me". So to make her more defensive I am putting her on an aero road frame. LOL

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:39 pm 
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I ran my junction A under the saddle of my C59. Attached with velcro. Much more out of sight than the photo above and nearly free. Link to the build thread is in my signature.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:53 am 
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@Imaking20 - wow yes indeed your junction box is very hidden on the Colnago. Your larger size AR FRD is almost 100 grams lighter than mine! Mine minus the rear derailleur hanger still weighed more than yours including the hanger. I feel cheated:(

@motorapido - thank you for adding the pics. Picture is worth a thousand words. I really like the EW67 junction on the downtube. That is slick! I know someone who can probably do something similar for me. However, my understanding is the smaller EW67 box is no longer compatible with the newer 9150. Is there a work around?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:22 am 
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Hi all,

I needed to make a dedicated thread for this so please follow this link below:

:lol: :lol: :lol: Godzuki26's Wife goes aero - Felt AR FRD 48cm :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thank you!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:20 am 
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I'm not sure on the compatibility of the EW67 and 9150, but if you can get one it might be worth giving it a try.
physically they are a lot smaller than the EW90 so far easier to integrate into the frame.
I really only slightly widened and then squared of the ends of the cable entry point,as it had a plastic guide screwed in.
Once the guide was removed it left a fairly sizeable hole in the frame.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 7:27 pm 
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godzuki26 wrote:
Thank you for suggestions on hiding the junction box. I have seen Cavendish mount his box under his saddle but not nearly as clean as CrankAddictRich's setup. Thanks for the link to the 3D printing site. I would have never found that site. Motoropido's suggestion will completely hide the box and I really like it. I will look into that route too.


I tossed around the idea of completely hiding the junction box, put it in the frame, but then I'd either have to pull it out to charge it or buy a separate junction and plug it in to the RD to charge the system. The downside of doing this, is that micro-adjusting the derailleurs becomes a pain in the ass. You can't use the system, i.e. micro-adjust with 2 a-junctions, so I'd still need to pull the normal one out of the frame. I change wheels on my TT bike, so being able to possibly adjust is important.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 2:07 am 
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According to the article from Tririg:

"When we wrote about the first Ultegra Di2 6770 group set, we reported that it would be compatible with the Dura-Ace 9070 group set since they both used the E-Tube standard. At the time, this was great news, as it meant that any E-Tube product would work with any other E-Tube product. We even wrote a detailed article about how the smaller Ultegra 6770 front A junction (SM-EW67-A-E) could be used in place of the larger Dura-Ace SM-EW-90A and SM-EW90-B front A junctions. By using this smaller junction when there wasn't enough room to hide the larger Dura-Ace front junctions, cleaner front ends could be achieved.

This worked well from 2013 to mid-2014, when Shimano released a firmware update designed to prevent 10 speed and 11 speed components from being used together. It had previously been possible to use a 10 speed Di2 front derailleur with an 11 speed Di2 rear derailleur. Shimano, however, has since required that a bike's components be entirely 10 speed or entirely 11 speed. It also broke compatibility with the smaller Ultegra 6770 front A junction (SM-EW67-A-E), which is no longer compatible with 11 speed components and the SM-BTR2 internal battery."

I will give it a try as my local bike shop has some laying around that I can borrow. Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:41 am 
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godzuki26 wrote:
According to the article from Tririg:

"When we wrote about the first Ultegra Di2 6770 group set, we reported that it would be compatible with the Dura-Ace 9070 group set since they both used the E-Tube standard. At the time, this was great news, as it meant that any E-Tube product would work with any other E-Tube product. We even wrote a detailed article about how the smaller Ultegra 6770 front A junction (SM-EW67-A-E) could be used in place of the larger Dura-Ace SM-EW-90A and SM-EW90-B front A junctions. By using this smaller junction when there wasn't enough room to hide the larger Dura-Ace front junctions, cleaner front ends could be achieved.

This worked well from 2013 to mid-2014, when Shimano released a firmware update designed to prevent 10 speed and 11 speed components from being used together. It had previously been possible to use a 10 speed Di2 front derailleur with an 11 speed Di2 rear derailleur. Shimano, however, has since required that a bike's components be entirely 10 speed or entirely 11 speed. It also broke compatibility with the smaller Ultegra 6770 front A junction (SM-EW67-A-E), which is no longer compatible with 11 speed components and the SM-BTR2 internal battery."

I will give it a try as my local bike shop has some laying around that I can borrow. Thanks


It will work as long as the components firmware haven't been updated..... but if you stay with the old firmware you're going to miss a lot of the cool new features, that IMO, are much cooler.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 6:38 pm 
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As you all know, my wife's Cannondale Evo is a 2015 model before Cannondale made updates in 2016 to the frame and fork. I preferred the 2015 model because the frame is lighter than the 2016 and it does not use the 25.4 mm seat post diameter. I much rather prefer the 27.2mm diameter because it gave me better options for a weight weenie seat post and a weight weenie seat post collar.

From RoadCyclingUK - "The frame weight of the SuperSix has actually increased slightly, up to 777g from 760g for the previous. But that doesn’t mean that the frameset weight has increased though, far from it, as Cannondale have reduced the fork from 320g to 280g."

What I do like about the 2016 model is the lighter fork which includes the integrated crown race. I also like the straight shape of the fork legs. Putting a 2016 fork on a pre-2016 frameset has already been discussed here:

:arrow: Supersix 2016 FORK on a Supersix 2014 frame

So, I can maybe save some grams if I did this to my wife's bike. I found a great deal on Ebay on a 2016 HiMod fork with 210mm of steerer tube. 263 grams with paint is already lighter than my wife's fully stripped fork weight of 284 grams. The weight will be lower once I cut the steerer tube and remove the team colors from the fork.

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 7:19 pm 
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DAMMIT GODZUKI I WAS GOING TO BUY THAT


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 7:40 pm 
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@Dudemanppl - I am an EBay sniping assasin. I always come out shadows to win :thumbup: Lol

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:56 am 
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Curious to see what weight it gets to. I'm still perplexed why my Evo Hi Mod (25.4 model) fork was so heavy? It was cut to 155mm and it was still 271g! Are we seeing you at Circle of Doom? 7:00 a.m. on 10/28 at the Trader Joe's in South Pasadena.


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Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 7:56 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:53 pm 
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I chopped off some steerer tube and with paint the fork is 250 grams. Fully stripped, this fork will be a tad under 240 grams. Weight Weenie member Garjo had a 2mm gap between his lower head tube and crown of fork. My wife does not have that much of a gap. In fact, the space is the same with the original fork which I am happy with. I am thinking about painting the fork purple and replacing the Tesa tape on the handlebars with purple Lizard Skins DSP tape. We will see.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

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