Litespeed Ghisallo 1x10 build (3.76kg or 8.29 lbs but not finished!!!!!!)

[wombus]

As I mentioned earlier, I am using the Zipp crankset because I like the Qfactor over the THM classic. I would like to shave some more weight. Do you guys think it is safe to remove material from the 30mm aluminum spindle? Has anyone ever done this? Maybe this will be unsafe? Some input would be appreciated before I do something stupid. Maybe I am being a little too ambitious and no longer "intelligently tuning"? Thanks!

It is not safe - you dramatically reduce the torsional stiffness of a tube or box by cutting just a small slit in it. (i.e. imagine you have a tube, you cut a slit lengthwise along the tube) the tube with the slit will have half the torsional stiffness.

This would mean double the deflection of the cranks - the corollary to double the deflection of the cranks is that you would see local stresses twice as high in the cut cylinder vs the closed cylinder. You're not only talking about cutting the cylinder open, but also removing a massive amount of material. Now it's not full length which saves you a bit, but I would say you'll see less than half the stiffness of the original cranks, and given the amount of material you want to remove peak stresses 3-5 times above an unmodified crank. That's assuming your workmanship is perfect and you don't introduce any stress concentrations or damage the heat treatment of the alloy.

[whilgenberg]

I would agree with Wombus. You also have no idea what the wall thickness of the spindle is so it realistically could be pretty easy to punch through without trying and we all know how mad of an idea that is. . .

[godzuki26]

To all thank you for the input on the crankset. I will leave the spindle as is. I apologize for not updating this build as I was in Thailand for 2 weeks. I received my 44 tooth chainring and spacers from Fibrelyte in the matte finish.




These spacers will protect the carbon spyder as I have already broken 2 cranksets by attaching the chainring bolts directly to the carbon spyder.




I will be using Zipp vumaquad ceramic bearings

[godzuki26]

For the seatpost and saddle you can't go wrong with a Berk combo (Selle Italia SLR mold + 31.6mm Post). I will be using a Carbonice 34.9 mm clamp as it is half the price of an MCFK and Tune clamp.

[godzuki26]

Originally I wanted to go with a Controltech TiMania seatpost, stem, and handlebar but they were far too heavy and I would never reach my goal of sub 10lbs. I actually think the carbon bits go very nicely with titanium once put together.

[BmanX]

Great work and keep it coming.

[burglarboycie]

This is getting exciting

[whilgenberg]

Since this seems like a proper weight weenie build, you can save a few grams by switching the BB bearings to ceramics if they aren't already. I just can't remember what color the seals are for ceramic bearings in the Zipp BSA BB...

[prendrefeu]

Since this seems like a proper weight weenie build, you can save a few grams by switching the BB bearings to ceramics if they aren't already. I just can't remember what color the seals are for ceramic bearings in the Zipp BSA BB...

I will be using Zipp vumaquad ceramic bearings

They're red.

[leifmagnus]

Insane build. Drilling your teeth will probably also save some weight...

[Sandwich]

Can only agree this is an insane project! Are you leaving the cranks raw? Won't this leave the resin exposed to UV?

[godzuki26]

I am using 303 Aerospace protectant for the carbon at the moment. I was going to use Opti-coat 2.0 which is now called Optimum Gloss-coat New Formula but was turned off by the price as you now get 10cc per bottle instead of the 20cc like the original. Half the amount at the same price was a no go for me.

[godzuki26]

For pedals I am going with the now defunct Ultralite Cirrus Ti Pedals. I use these pedals on 2 of my other bikes. They are a little strange to get in and out of but like anything you get used to them. I will use these pedals on this build because they are light and I don't have to buy separate shoes for different brand cleats. I got a great deal on Ebay and snagged these for $125 usd.

[godzuki26]

Like the pedals, I also have 3 sets Ax Lightness brakes. I snagged all 3 sets on Ebay over the span of a few years. One set is already on my BH Ultralight. The other 2 sets that remain are different in that one has a carbon leaf spring (Ax3000) and the other has an aluminum leaf spring (Orion). Initially I did not like the feel of the carbon leaf spring and took them off my BH Ultralight. For this build, I will probably use the carbon leaf spring to save as much weight as possible. I also have 1 set of BTP clamps for PowerCordz which I by chance snagged from Ebay too:)

The Orion brakeset came with Aluminum brake shoes which are heavier than KCNC brake shoes. I purchased some carbon brake shoes from CarbonWorks and they are lighter than KCNC. I was wondering if I can possibly tune the KCNC shoes to be the lightest amongst the 3 sets.



Ax Lightness aluminum shoes


CarbonWorks carbon shoes

[VTR1000SP2]

This is a build anyone can be proud of


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk