Ridley Helium SL 2014 - 5.19kg

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madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

3delis wrote:Mad tuna,
How you liking those ax p38s? Have some campy ultra clinchers, but thinking of getting a lightweight tubular set and have been eyeing those .


it must be p38"t" right?
anyhow, i have just ridden 300km with these wheels so far... and so much satisfied by its higher spoke tension.
when pedaling out of the saddle, i feel that p38t are quite more rigid than bora 35 and so i feel like the bike moves forward a little bit more.
also, i can see its higher spoke tension when pushing the side of the wheels. i tried to push the side of the rim around the brake to make the rim & the pad in touch - of course the skewer was tightly locked.
in the same power of my pushing, bora 35 was bent & touches the pad. but p38t was not & didn't so. (fyi, i prefer setting up aprrox 2mm gap between the pads & the rims.)

recommendation? of course yes. all you need to worry is a sudden puncture on the road as it's tubular.

ihs0yz
Posts: 105
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:33 am

by ihs0yz

Is your RD a long cage? How do you like the KCNC brakes?

by Weenie


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madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

ihs0yz wrote:Is your RD a long cage? How do you like the KCNC brakes?


Nope. my RD is a short cage. btw, Sram short cage RD can take max 14t pully without cutting or grinding.

Regarding KCNC brakes...I understand what you mean.
I am light (67kg) & have used these brakes for more than 4 years - means I got used to these brakes. Now I don't feel a lack of braking force.

lego
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2016 10:32 pm

by lego

Hi!
Really nice bike you got there, currently building a Helium SL myself and got a few questions about the i-link cables.

Did you have any problems threading them into the frame? My teflon housings got damaged somehow when I mounted the bottom piece in the frameset. Did you use the teflon housing all the way from shifter to rear derailleur?

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Cheers!
- Jon Olsson - SHCK - We're only here for the beer/gear!

gangbyeon
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue May 31, 2016 10:43 am

by gangbyeon

In "NAVER" I enjoy watching!
EXTRALIGHT chainring to SRAM RED CRANK is impressive!

_____________________________________________
Canyon Ultimate cf slx 9.0 swiss - 5.6kg

McGilli
Posts: 373
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:57 pm

by McGilli

That frame looks like it was painted with SRAM Red in mind! Looks sweet!

madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

lego wrote:Hi!
Really nice bike you got there, currently building a Helium SL myself and got a few questions about the i-link cables.

Did you have any problems threading them into the frame? My teflon housings got damaged somehow when I mounted the bottom piece in the frameset. Did you use the teflon housing all the way from shifter to rear derailleur?

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hi. thanks :)
i didn't have the problems in cable routing with i-link cables. as you said, i used the teflon housing all the way from shifter to rear derailleur without the cut.
fyi, i started pushing the teflon cables from the bottom piece & pull out those ends from both shifter side & derailleur side. and then i injected the grease into the teflon cable to reduce the friction between the surface of internal cable sides & wires right before putting the wires in.
if "the damaged" you meant is internal surface of the teflon cables, try what i did as above first and put the wire in. i think any other kinds of lubrication may work as well.


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madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

gangbyeon wrote:In "NAVER" I enjoy watching!
EXTRALIGHT chainring to SRAM RED CRANK is impressive!

_____________________________________________
Canyon Ultimate cf slx 9.0 swiss - 5.6kg

then, you must be korean :D 감사합니다!


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madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

McGilli wrote:That frame looks like it was painted with SRAM Red in mind! Looks sweet!


thanks :D nice to hear so. as i mentioned in the introduction, i made an effort for the colour matching as well!


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lego
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2016 10:32 pm

by lego

madtuna wrote:
lego wrote:
hi. thanks :)
i didn't have the problems in cable routing with i-link cables. as you said, i used the teflon housing all the way from shifter to rear derailleur without the cut.
fyi, i started pushing the teflon cables from the bottom piece & pull out those ends from both shifter side & derailleur side. and then i injected the grease into the teflon cable to reduce the friction between the surface of internal cable sides & wires right before putting the wires in.
if "the damaged" you meant is internal surface of the teflon cables, try what i did as above first and put the wire in. i think any other kinds of lubrication may work as well.


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Nah, I really ment that when pushing the cable guide into the frame (with the liners in place) I seem to pinch the teflon liner between the guide and frame. Don't think that's the biggest problem though.

I think my problem is that the cable guide interfere with the bottom bracket somehow, when trying to install the cable guide there's this gap between the frame and guide like it's hitting the bottom bracket and won't get into place all the way. And when I have that gap it seems like the liners and cables don't get the clearance needed to run smoothly.

What bottom bracket do you use?

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Cheers!
- Jon Olsson - SHCK - We're only here for the beer/gear!

Durisic
Posts: 55
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:33 am

by Durisic

wow! 5.19kg ?!! super good!! :thumbup:

madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

Durisic wrote:wow! 5.19kg ?!! super good!! :thumbup:


In fact, it's 5.16kg now :)
Image

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madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

lego wrote:
madtuna wrote:
lego wrote:
hi. thanks :)
i didn't have the problems in cable routing with i-link cables. as you said, i used the teflon housing all the way from shifter to rear derailleur without the cut.
fyi, i started pushing the teflon cables from the bottom piece & pull out those ends from both shifter side & derailleur side. and then i injected the grease into the teflon cable to reduce the friction between the surface of internal cable sides & wires right before putting the wires in.
if "the damaged" you meant is internal surface of the teflon cables, try what i did as above first and put the wire in. i think any other kinds of lubrication may work as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah, I really ment that when pushing the cable guide into the frame (with the liners in place) I seem to pinch the teflon liner between the guide and frame. Don't think that's the biggest problem though.

I think my problem is that the cable guide interfere with the bottom bracket somehow, when trying to install the cable guide there's this gap between the frame and guide like it's hitting the bottom bracket and won't get into place all the way. And when I have that gap it seems like the liners and cables don't get the clearance needed to run smoothly.

What bottom bracket do you use?

Skickat från min LG-V500 via Tapatalk


I just use an usual one - SRAM PF30.
Did you check the diameter of the cable? FYI, mine is mini i-link with the diameter 4mm. Just in case, check out your cable whether 4mm or 5mm. Please check out the below link.
http://www.alligatorcables.com/category ... e-Kit.html
Last edited by madtuna on Tue Oct 11, 2016 2:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

garjo
Posts: 193
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:41 pm
Location: ITALY

by garjo

Nice build with an amazing weight!
My 4,93 kg Supersix Evo HM: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137647&start=30

My 6,22 kg Cannondale R500 1996: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=134364

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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madtuna
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:53 am

by madtuna

garjo wrote:Nice build with an amazing weight!

Thanks :D

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