Cannondale Supersix Hill Climb project
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:43 pm
Hello
I bought a 2011 supersix last year and began building it as a hillclimb bike to race at the Nationals. When I bought it, it had a few tweaks and was weighing in at 7.9kg. Since then, I’ve been getting rid of the heavy bits and replacing parts on a budget. I’ve managed to bring that down to 6.6kg but I’m looking at shedding another kg for the Hill Climb season next September.
I’m in the process of stripping the frame and fork of paint using wet and dry and will post more photos of the build as it progresses.
2011 Supersix frame and forks
Exotic carbon seatpost
Selle Italia SLR 135 saddle stripped
Cannondale C2 stem
Cannondale C2 cut bars
Jagwire cables
Shimano 105 brake callipers
Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur
FSA SLK-Light 170mm Cranks
RaceFace Narrow-Wide 38T
KMC X10SL chain
Shimano 105 Shifters with gutted left lever
Shimano 105 11-28T cassette
Planet X pro-carbon 50 tubular wheelset
Vittoria Corsa CX (21mm front, 23mm rear)
Look Keo Plus pedals
Barfly Garmin Mount plus cadence sensor
Pics of the bike at the end of the season, prior to stripping.
I bought a 2011 supersix last year and began building it as a hillclimb bike to race at the Nationals. When I bought it, it had a few tweaks and was weighing in at 7.9kg. Since then, I’ve been getting rid of the heavy bits and replacing parts on a budget. I’ve managed to bring that down to 6.6kg but I’m looking at shedding another kg for the Hill Climb season next September.
I’m in the process of stripping the frame and fork of paint using wet and dry and will post more photos of the build as it progresses.
2011 Supersix frame and forks
Exotic carbon seatpost
Selle Italia SLR 135 saddle stripped
Cannondale C2 stem
Cannondale C2 cut bars
Jagwire cables
Shimano 105 brake callipers
Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur
FSA SLK-Light 170mm Cranks
RaceFace Narrow-Wide 38T
KMC X10SL chain
Shimano 105 Shifters with gutted left lever
Shimano 105 11-28T cassette
Planet X pro-carbon 50 tubular wheelset
Vittoria Corsa CX (21mm front, 23mm rear)
Look Keo Plus pedals
Barfly Garmin Mount plus cadence sensor
Pics of the bike at the end of the season, prior to stripping.
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:43 pm
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:43 pm
I'll be looking at changing out to some Sram Red components eventually but funds are restricting that at the moment.
Brakes will probably be Planet X CNC but will go Red for rear mech and shifters
Brakes will probably be Planet X CNC but will go Red for rear mech and shifters
- btompkins0112
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Looks like a cool project! I agree, the biggest weight savings to be had is in the 105 brakes. If you went with a PX on the back and nothing on the front you could save roughly 400g.
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btompkins0112 wrote:Looks like a cool project! I agree, the biggest weight savings to be had is in the 105 brakes. If you went with a PX on the back and nothing on the front you could save roughly 400g.
what that guy said ^^^^
P.s. i am not that keen on the px brakes for all round but for hill climb, hell yeah!
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My suggestions are as follows.
Front brake only. I believe most rules state you have to have one brake and might as well go with the shorts cable run possible. Lighter front brake like the KCNC or knockoff.
Shallow rims if your budget allows.
Smaller front chainring if possible and then match that with a smaller cassette for closer ratio and lighter weight.
Front brake only. I believe most rules state you have to have one brake and might as well go with the shorts cable run possible. Lighter front brake like the KCNC or knockoff.
Shallow rims if your budget allows.
Smaller front chainring if possible and then match that with a smaller cassette for closer ratio and lighter weight.
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- Posts: 73
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I've got a non evo supersix. Very interested to know how much weight you shave off with the paint.
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Great project! Seeing your bike makes me really want to convert mine to 1x. The majority of my time spent on my road bike nowadays is flatland.
I'd leave the front brake on if you have to ride back down the hill. Take it off if you don't have to ride back down. Heck...of you don't have to ride back down...I'd gut the entire left lever...including the lever and just leave the hood.
I'd leave the front brake on if you have to ride back down the hill. Take it off if you don't have to ride back down. Heck...of you don't have to ride back down...I'd gut the entire left lever...including the lever and just leave the hood.
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- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:43 pm
Thanks for the comments. For the race regs, I need two working brake mechanisms. If I were to go singlespeed, I could drop one of the brakes but on this I'll need a front and a rear. It looks like Planet X might have discontinued the CNC brakes so will either be looking out for a second-hand set or something else.
BmanX I like the idea of a smaller ring and casette - hadn't thought along those lines so will see what that does for me. Thanks for the suggestions.
I've got almost all of the paint off now so thought it would be a good chance to put up photos and talk weight-savings.
I used the wet-and-dry method to cut through the paint. I started on the fork to get the technique right and to ensure I wouldn't lose the frame if I screwed up. I used a mix of 280 and 400 grit and that seemed to give me the control I needed. I'll be using fibr grades to tidy it all up a bit.
The fork went well and took under 2 hours to complete but only saw a saving of 11grams. The paint had always seemed a bit thin and there were very few coats on the fork. I was a bit disappointed by the saving but at least it gave me the confidence to crack on with the frame.
The frame was a different matter and took a long time to get through. In some places I counted 13 layers of paint and primer. I used the same grades of paper and pushed on through. The thickness of the paint gave me some reassurance that there would be a worthwhile weight saving in taking it all off.
I had to undertake the stripping in 1-2 hour sessions as it was taking its toll on the skin of my fingers. They would inevitably end up bleeding by the end of the sanding session. Joy! The supersix frame was painted in a way that there were 2 primer coats so it was very easy to know when to stop, although on the seat-tube there were places where black paint had been applied directly to the carbon, making it a bit more tricky to gauge.
In total, sanding of the frame has removed 153grams and has taken just under 25 hours to complete. This takes the frame down to 877grams.
Here are a few photos of the frame almost complete, bar some of the fiddly bits around the cable bosses and junctions. This has all now been taken off. This is also prior to cleaning and fine-sanding so there are a few streaks across the place. I'm very happy with the detail of the layup around the junctions and there was very little filler that needed removing.
Next up, putting some graphics back on and clear-coating.
BmanX I like the idea of a smaller ring and casette - hadn't thought along those lines so will see what that does for me. Thanks for the suggestions.
I've got almost all of the paint off now so thought it would be a good chance to put up photos and talk weight-savings.
I used the wet-and-dry method to cut through the paint. I started on the fork to get the technique right and to ensure I wouldn't lose the frame if I screwed up. I used a mix of 280 and 400 grit and that seemed to give me the control I needed. I'll be using fibr grades to tidy it all up a bit.
The fork went well and took under 2 hours to complete but only saw a saving of 11grams. The paint had always seemed a bit thin and there were very few coats on the fork. I was a bit disappointed by the saving but at least it gave me the confidence to crack on with the frame.
The frame was a different matter and took a long time to get through. In some places I counted 13 layers of paint and primer. I used the same grades of paper and pushed on through. The thickness of the paint gave me some reassurance that there would be a worthwhile weight saving in taking it all off.
I had to undertake the stripping in 1-2 hour sessions as it was taking its toll on the skin of my fingers. They would inevitably end up bleeding by the end of the sanding session. Joy! The supersix frame was painted in a way that there were 2 primer coats so it was very easy to know when to stop, although on the seat-tube there were places where black paint had been applied directly to the carbon, making it a bit more tricky to gauge.
In total, sanding of the frame has removed 153grams and has taken just under 25 hours to complete. This takes the frame down to 877grams.
Here are a few photos of the frame almost complete, bar some of the fiddly bits around the cable bosses and junctions. This has all now been taken off. This is also prior to cleaning and fine-sanding so there are a few streaks across the place. I'm very happy with the detail of the layup around the junctions and there was very little filler that needed removing.
Next up, putting some graphics back on and clear-coating.
- michel2
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- Location: somewere floating between here and the other side
i would only go with a single brack if you are absolutly limited to uphill ridding, what if your brake fails or ,more likely, get a flat tire on the wheel with the only brake ? and get some new handle bars, remeber fvdb screaming up hill in liege bastogne lige ? you attack from the bottom of the drops !! (-:
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If this is truly an uphill only bike then I would change out the handlebar set up 100% to the following as it will be much lighter.
HYLIX Carbon BULLHORN TT Handlebar-155g
Shimano Dura Ace Bar End TT Shifter Rear 10 Speed - ~75g
Rear TT brake lever ~75g
Put the brake on one side and the shifter on the other.
So about 300g for everything and I would venture a guess that your brake levers alone weigh more.
HYLIX Carbon BULLHORN TT Handlebar-155g
Shimano Dura Ace Bar End TT Shifter Rear 10 Speed - ~75g
Rear TT brake lever ~75g
Put the brake on one side and the shifter on the other.
So about 300g for everything and I would venture a guess that your brake levers alone weigh more.
Last edited by BmanX on Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT for 2 decades