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 Post subject: How to lighten my R3?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:19 pm
Posts: 59
Hi, I just finished my build with new zipp 303 wheels and total weight was 6,84kg. Just thinking what is next step to lighten my bike. Any suggestions?

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:49 pm
Posts: 1594
Location: Near Horgen, Switzerland
The short answer is that every part on that bike could be lighter. The challenge is balancing aesthetics, function, price and weight. For instance it's easy to get some CNC brakes which are very light, but which are rubbish for stopping. So you lose any marginal uphill gain on the first downhill corner.

You could make a $/g saved spreadsheet and prioritise that way, or you could just buy the lightest parts which are not crazy expensive and go from there. Fairwheel bikes has nice pictures and weights and is a good one stop shop, or if in Europe you could use Starbike who sponsors this site.

My priority list would be roughly:
1) Small cheap parts such as:
- Headset cap, expander, spacers, bolt
- Bar tape and end plugs
- Seat post clamp
- Bolts
- Tubs / Tyres and tubes
- Bottle cages
- Cables
- All the stuff you carry when you ride

2) Fit parts (assuming you're comfortable at the moment, otherwise these are the priority)
- Saddle
- Seatpost, stem, bars

3) Critical functional parts
- Pedals
- Shoes
- Helmet
- Crank*
- Brakes

Then groupset, wheels and frame

* The crankset is ugly. If you must keep it, at least get it painted black.


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Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:40 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:47 pm
Posts: 218
Location: Boganville, Australia
The crankset is not ugly. Rotor cranks are just functional/industrial looking. I have a set on one of my bikes. :)

I am finding that the $/gram is the critical thing. Especially if you are 95kg plus. I am currently looking at lightweight saddles and struggling to find a suitable shape that will take my weight, that isn't hideously expensive. Yet this will possibly be the best $/gram saving I will find over the SMP Composit I currently use. The $/gram on some of the cheaper components such as clamps, caps, cages and the like are not necessarily that great.

Re brakes, eecycleworks. Fantastic and they stop!

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MAMIL? Never. O.F.I.L. yeh! (Old F**ker in Lycra)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:19 pm
Posts: 59
Current build list:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 5:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:06 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Yorkshire - God's Own Country
The bike is fine apart from the fugly crankset. Just ride and enjoy it!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Posts: 1060
Location: The Lone Star State
You're riding Ultegra 6770, so I would suggest upgrading to DA9000 Di2. The beauty of e-tube is that you can reuse many of your current parts. Change out the rear derailleur and cassette first, then the front derailleur, and finally the shifters, as money allows.

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I own a lot of Treks


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:19 pm
Posts: 59
Any suggestions what would be good crankset? 30mm axle and bbright compatible


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:03 pm
Posts: 330
Location: Porto, Portugal
Pedals... Speedplay Zero TI axles.

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Cannondale Supersix '10


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:51 pm
Posts: 57
Location: Bournemouth, UK
juuzo wrote:
Any suggestions what would be good crankset? 30mm axle and bbright compatible



The Rotor 3D+ cranks now come with better (more subtle) graphics...

Here are mine with Praxis Works rings

Image


PS - I love your R3... I really want to get the frameset, but I don't like the current black & blue colours :(


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:19 am
Posts: 887
Image


Also, SRAM RED :D


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:17 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Belo Horizonte, Brazil
Hello juuzo!

What a great bike you have! I have a 2012 R3 Team and I'm currently preparing a Di2 upgrade. I see that you had your frame drilled and removed the cable stops, right? Do you have any pictures and/or details about the process? Did you used the holes from the rivets or just did new ones? Did you made round 6mm or oval 6x8mm? What about the FD cable, is it leaving the frame via the already existent FD cable hole? Did you enlarge it or it will fit the wires? Give all the details (and pictures!) if you can!
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 418
Ax Lightness Rigid stem and 2100 seatpost
Ax Lightness Leaf saddle
Tufo Elite <160 tubulars
Pedals - Speedplay Nanogram


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:17 pm
Posts: 158
Location: Belo Horizonte, Brazil
Zipp's 202
Dura-Ace 9070


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 3:48 am 
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Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 1:38 pm
Posts: 45
KMC X10 sl
Sram Red XG 1090 cassette
Standard Q ring instead of aero


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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 3:48 am 


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