Colnago C40 - Project Build - help needed

[Beancouter]

I have just bought myself a C40 in LX20 colour scheme as a recipient for a load of surplus gear I have scattered around my house.

Going to get the frame tidied up by the spray shop I use but have one thing to fix first. Bought it with the ferrules in the cable guides. The back one came out ok but the front one, I think was part of a botch job to repair a broken guide. Does anyone have any experience of repairing these or putting a new one on? Ordinarily I would just drill the rivets out, but the C40 seems to have a top tube with no access hole - I am therefore concerned that the back of the river will end up rattling inside the tube. Thoughts/guidance much appreciated. A couple of pictures below.

[latman]

can you use a dremel tool with a sanding cylinder fitted to make a hole inside the head tube ?

[emorydptt]

The lugged joints should be open, so the back side of the rivets should be able to be shaken out from the seat tube.

[Beancouter]

Unfortunately my lugged joints aren't open. There is a very small hole in the seat tube. May try and open that up a little and take the bits out there. Other ideas welcome.


Next question: going for campag but question is what era.

Option 1: I have a nearly mint condition chorus 9 speed ergopower groupset with open pro mavic wheels. Clearly not a WW build.

Option 2: a WW build. I have some stans 340 and Planet X calipers. Then make up the rest of the groupset with 10 speed campag, probably record or chorus (funded from sale of the 9 speed groupo + wheels).

I like the idea of the period look but have WW in my blood!!!'

[c50jim]

I hope you can figure out a way to fix that little wrinkle because it looks like a nice frame otherwise.

As the owner of five C40s (three of similar vintage to yours), I'd say that it's tough to make a real WW out of a C40 (or any Colnago for that matter). My lightest C40s are in the 16.5 pound/7.5 kg range with full Record groups and reasonably light but sturdy clinchers. On a good day, I seem to weigh about 185 these days so avoid super-light parts, can't be bothered with tubulars and don't trust lightweight brakes. When I bought my last two NOS C40s a year ago, I decided to go with 11 speed on the grounds that the bikes will last a long time and it will be easier to get parts over their lives. My original C40 from 1995 is still working (although I, unfortunately, sold it a few years ago to buy a C50 before I decided I prefer C40s) after 12 seasons as my #1 bike (not used in rain, etc.) and three or four more under its new owner until he bought a C50. I figure that I have a lifetime supply of C40s that will be going for a long time and have stocked up on 10 speed parts that wear out (chains, cassettes, rear derailleurs, just in case the bike drops). 9 speed parts are getting harder to find and even many 10 speed parts such as cranks are getting rare. So, whether you like Campy or Shimano, I'd go 11 speed with a bike like that.

[mrfish]

Since the mandrel is smaller than the hole, with with a bit of jiggling and a vacuum cleaner taped to it, it ought to come out. But if it doesn't then the proper ghetto technique is to apply a few blobs of glue into any frame hole to make a small pool of glue. Then jiggle the frame until the glue "catches" the loose mandrel and prop the frame at an angle for a couple of days until it's fully dry. This seems to me better than cutting new holes etc.

[Beancouter]

Like the idea! Had crossed my mind about the glue but think I might shed a tear if I had to do it!!!!

I don't suppose you know if the brake stop is glued and riveted or just riveted?

[Rumsas]

I like the glue idea to

[jekyll man]

Had the rivets rot away on mine, and also broke one of the guides off.
Yours is a lot newer, as its got stops instead of full length outer guides on it.
From what I remember they are just a fairly standard frame part that you could get practically anywhere.
I don't think they are glued on as well, but they may have chowed down into the lacquer and that holds it on as well...

I didn't get the rivet end out, just stuffed some epoxy in the hole at the seat tube end and hoped for the best!
Nice frame btw make sure the dropouts aren't corroding away though...

[Beancouter]

Think dropouts are ok, albeit they need respraying as the paint has flaked on one side. I will give them a good look though.

I would say the funny thing about the cable stops is that I can find ONE supplier on the WWW and nothing on eBay! Part of the fun of building bikes for me is sourcing the parts - that said not much joy trying to find a £2 part! Next route is to phone some bespoke frame builders around London and the south east - fingers crossed.

[jekyll man]

I got some off maestro, but reckon you should be able to pick them up off pretty much any builder, or even ask in your lbs if they've got any scrap frames you can pinch them off.

[stella-azzurra]

Looks like the tube is damaged. You will need to repair that first before putting in a new rivet.

[Beancouter]

Interesting - I can't see any damage; lots of crud around the old cable stop from overspray and lacquer. May be looking in the wrong place though?

[Beancouter]

Bike stripped down and ready to go for paintwork to be touched up. Weights not too bad for a 56cm frame.

[Beancouter]

Frame now back from the spray shop and looks absolutely stunning - the finish is probably better than when it left the factory.

Following c50jims's advice I have decided to go for 11 speed campagnolo. Given I have 2 weight weenie (expensive bikes) and don't really need another one (!), I have opted for carbon athena. Should look the part.

In terms of the fit, I have bought a 100mm stem -17 degrees but think I probably need 110 -10degrees. The forks have been cut short and the drop is big!

Next big decision is wheels (the ones on it are off my Evo). I am thinking about some 24mm carbon/alu from farsports. Think they should work well with the frame. Have posted elsewhere for feedback on these. Other ideas gratefully received.