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 Post subject: 2014 Parlee Z5i build
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:54 am
Posts: 25
I've finally gotten around to taking some pictures of my new edition to my stable.

2014 Parlee Z5i Medium/Short Frame
Canecreek Headset
Dura Ace 9000 Shifters
Dura Ace 9000 50/34
Dura Ace 9000 FD / RD with standard cables
Dura Ace 9000 Brakes
Dura Ace 9000 11-28 Cassette
Enve Compact Handlebars 42cm
Enve Stem 100mm
Enve Seatpost 25mm offset
Enve Expander Plug with cap
Fizik Antares VS with carbon rails
Arundel Mandible cages
Mavic R-SYS SLR wheelset
Continental Grandprix 4000S
Total weight 6.8kg

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I may be looking for some options to lose some addition grams here and there, thinking maybe skewers, expander plug, potentially others? Still need to dial down the stem height and cut the excess from the fork and seat post. Thoughts on how much I could potentially bring down the weight?


Last edited by ARL002 on Wed Mar 12, 2014 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 5:56 am 
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Location: Santa Barbara
Great bike. I really like the shape of the fork.

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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 5:56 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 7:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 20, 2010 6:06 am
Posts: 703
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Nice solid build, it looks really neat
My Z5 weighs 6.1 kg with SRAM Red and Edge 1.38 tubulars.
Easy weight loss
Skewers
Inner tubes
Cables - iLink of Aican Bungaras
Bar tape




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Parlee Z5 XL 2011 (6055g/13.32lbs) Raleigh RC Ltd 2008 (7.6kg) Reynolds 653 Custom 1990 (9.8kg, now 8.8kg)
The accumulation of marginal gains is what makes the difference between winning and losing


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:42 am 
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Location: Bexley, Kent, UK
Nice solid build I like it.

I'd leave as it is!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:49 pm
Posts: 1562
Location: Near Horgen, Switzerland
Nice. Mine is an Z5SL, a bit over 6kg with DA 7900, Mavic CCUs and a Pro Stealth bar / stem. 99% of the time I run DA clincher wheels as I like to be able to fix punctures and brake down 25% hills when it rains.

Do what Ozrider says for easy no-compromise weight savings.

After that you're into new wheels, crank, brakes etc. and then shaving a few g here and there by swapping seatpost, stem, bars and saddle. After trying carbon Gravitas brakes my view is only to save weight where it doesn't compromise the function of the parts. Compared with DA the Gravitas brakes were a PITA and lose all advantages gained up the mountain pass on the first downhill corner. So I would recommend spending money on holidays rather than parts after you've added some nice tub wheels (and possibly an AX lightness seatpost, clavicula or AX crank and Extralite stem). I like Mavic CCUs as they are significantly cheaper than Lightweights second hand and just work with no hassles, or some Enve 25 rims and Tune or Dash hubs would also be chic but require more long-term maintenance on the hubs.

I would be careful on swapping out the ENVE plug, heavy though it is, as an Extralite one does not support the steerer and it can be crushed. A much better solution would be a carbon bond-in plug (nobody makes this yet), similar to what Alpha Q offered in Aluminium.

Also with Supersonic inner tubes care is needed. Best to add talc, inflate them a bit, use fingers only to put the tyre on, then put a bit more air in and squeeze the tyre bead all round. This I found was the only fool-proof way to avoid installation punctures. So instead I use Vittoria tubes as they were a few g more, a bit more robust and about half the price.

Enjoy a great bike!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:54 am
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Updated with larger pictures.

@Ozrider and @mrfish Thanks for the detailed feedback! I'm looking for more of the no performance compromise weight savings, sounds like I could probably lose ~100-200g with skewers, cables, bar tape and cutting excess from fork and seatpost. Does that sound about right?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:36 pm 
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Even easier weight loss... replace that beefy k-edge garmin mount with a raceware direct or sram one and lose about 20g.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:45 pm 
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easy weight savings:

fork: 10-20g min
seapost: 10-20g min
garmin: ~20g
skewers: ~60g
bar tape: no clue but guessing at least 30g

So ~150g pretty easy.

You can also lose a decent amount in saddle weight but I'm guessing that violates the no compromises mantra.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 4:47 pm 
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Easy stuff
Supersonic tubes and a super sonic front tire.. Easy 150-200g
Don't ride in the gutter and avoid shinny shit on the road and the supersonic will treat you like a king.
cables.. Only thing is the aican is really tricky and hard to banish the rattles on.. My pick would be mini iLinks for shiftin with the Aicans for brakes.
Banish all the steel bolts on the frame.. Other than stem and seat post they can all pretty much be alloy
Expander setup with a light cap. This is a 60g saving easy and the extralite expander will work just fine there is no drama with 'not supporting the clamped area'... Etc.. Those days are quite behind us...
Seat post clamp... I like the mcfk offerings. For a z5 you need one 12mm high. There are plenty of sub 10g options.
Skewers. Tune dc14s are 34g the pair and have yet to left me down on two Parlee builds and 15000kms..

Big stuff. Brakes only thing worth replacing 9000 series DA brakes with is ee brakes but they are 600 odd bones, saddle post and stem are while pretty and functional all a bit porky.
And if your gona change the brakes then a lighter crank is also a winner.
It's all a matter of taste and moneis though.
She is a purrrty thing though :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 5:18 pm 
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Location: DC
This is a well put together Parlee! I like it. For cables I suggest you look into the the Jagwire link system. It's relatively new so there is not a lot of info on it, however, I have been extremely pleased with my kit. Easy installation, work great and I think the black links would match the black on the Parlee perfectly while dropping some weight. You also get enough of the liner to do replacements down the road or run the system fully sealed.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:49 pm
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Location: Near Horgen, Switzerland
Quote:
Expander setup with a light cap. This is a 60g saving easy and the extralite expander will work just fine there is no drama with 'not supporting the clamped area'... Etc.. Those days are quite behind us...


Yeah, that's exactly what I thought before I checked my steerer. A search will probably reveal some other instances of the same problem. This is also why Enve includes instructions to only use the enclosed boat-anchor expander.

Setup:
- Blue Extralite expander
- Enve top cap and standard aluminium bolt
- 3T Arx Team stem @ 3NM with torque wrench
- Fork cut to avoid spacers above the stem

The problem is that the Enve top cap is quite deep to take the depth of the bolt head. So the expander needs to be about 1.5cm down from the top of the fork. The top of the steerer is then pinched by the top bolt on the 3T stem. Maybe using a thinner top cap with a conical head bolt would allow the expander to sit higher and support the top of the tube, or using the ArxII stem with the single bolt might help, but YMMV. A better solution would be a bond-in expander which supports the top of the steerer.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:41 pm 
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I get ya, yea they are really deep I wouldn't run the enve set up but if you did I wouldn't run the stem and cap flush. I run the expander around the top bolt area this works to support the top of the steerer tube

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 6:17 pm 
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sugarkane wrote:
Supersonic tubes and a super sonic front tire.. Easy 150-200g
Don't ride in the gutter and avoid shinny shit on the road and the supersonic will treat you like a king.

When I first got my Mavic R-SYS SLR's running the Mavic Yksion tires, I had a horrible time with punctures, 3 punctures in the first 3 rides. Having since changed to what I had been riding, Continental Grandprix 4000S, I haven't had a flat since. Sounds like punctures are probably more to do with the tires themselves vs the tubes? How dos the super sonic front tire handle punctures?

sugarkane wrote:
Banish all the steel bolts on the frame..

Am I looking to replace with Ti? Alloy? Where would I purchase replacements? I'm assuming that they are fairly standard size (sorry unfamiliar with the standards here)

sugarkane wrote:
Brakes only thing worth replacing 9000 series DA brakes with is ee brakes but they are 600 odd bones

DA9000 brakes seem to be the gold standard from a performance perspective, but really beefy. Do the eebrakes compare from a performance perspective? e.g. stopping power and modulation. I do a lot of climbing and long descending so breaking power is important to me.

pje0713 wrote:
replace that beefy k-edge garmin mount with a raceware direct or sram one and lose about 20g.

I always thought the k-edge garmin mount was light, until I looked at the weights! Looks like its more like 10g, k-edge is 30g while barfly 2.0 is 17g. Sound about right?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:50 am 
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Supersonics are not tuff. If you stick to the -#tublyf rules of not riding in the gutter and avoiding shinny things they are good though and really fast.

EE brakes are the only brakes that come even close to the DA brakes in the performance stakes and the quick change pad holders are the best set up of any brakes out there

Probolt.com have all the ti and alloy bolts you'll ever need.
Id use alloy for pinch bolts and mounting bolts on the mechs, cages, top cap
Avoid Toronto cycles ti as it's soft and poorly made.

Mcfk 12mm seat clamp, direct from Martin

And stick with the kegde mount. I like what racewear is doing but I've snapped 4 of em and had my garmin 800 disapaire down the road at 45kph..
Not worth the risk.
Some grams are worth it.. :thumbup:

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Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 9:50 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 11:16 pm 
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Any US sites someone can recommend for Ti and Alloy bolts?

@sugarkane ouch, hope you were able to recover your garmin 800!


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