Trek: 1.1 Aluminum frame and fork

Final weight: 8.923kg. / 19.67lb.

http://imgur.com/WxwndIe

Trek 1.1 Alu Frame and headset and derailleur hanger: 1663.8g
Trek 1.1 Alu Fork: 672.4g
Unbranded seatpost clamp: 20.8g
Bontrager SSR Seatpost: 320.9g
Selle Italia SLR Flow saddle: 179.3g
3T ARX Team 110mm stem: 125.4g
3T Ergosum Team 42cm bars: 202.8g
SRAM Supercork bartape and 3T plugs: 72.6g
Bontrager RXL bottle cage and bolts: 29.2g
Alu bottle cage and bolts: 72.2g
Shimano stock cable housing: 111g
SRAM Shift and Brake cables: 49.7g
Unbranded stock brakes: 318.6g
Shimano 2300 Front derailleur and clamp: 119.7g
SRAM Rival rear derailleur: 168.8g
SRAM Red Standard Crankset 175mm: 664.5g
Chainrings (included in crankset weight)
Chainring bolts (included in crankset weight): 7g
SRAM PC 1091 Chain 106 links: 237g
SRAM Rival Shifters: 327.6g
SRAM OG 1070 11-26 cassette: 228.9g
3T Accelero Pro wheelset: 2031.6g
hubs: included
Spokes: included
Rims: included
Skewers: included
Kenda 700x18-25 tubesx2: 187.4g
Michelin Dynamic Sport: 538.3g
Shimano SPD-SL pedals: 330.1g
Cateye V2c Computer and sensors: 78g
SRAM GXP bottom bracket: 107.8g
Alu headset spacers: 64.6g

I will be upgrading to a carbon frame soon. I have a Kestrel RT800 SL that just seems too heavy, it's only 160 grams lighter than my alu frameset, so I'm returning it to save for a Dengfu FM066 frame with custom paint. If you have any other suggestions, I'm all ears. I ordered Ti skewers, so I'll be shaving 60g off my wheelset plus I just got some veloplugs, so that should shave another 20-30 grams and will be reusable. I have two carbon cages now, my new bontrager RXXXL cage w/o bolts weighs about 18g. I will be using a sram force22 FD at about 84g and SRAM a Red brakeset at about 278.8g on the carbon frame. Also I will be using jagwire racer pro cable housing, and the frame will be internal routing so I think I can get this setup below 17 pounds with the lighter frame, and maybe a new set of tires and tubes.

Thanks for reading! Glad to finally be a part of these forums now after a few months of browsing.

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Strava | instagram

My base build is off a Windsor Wellington 3.0, a comparable in spec alu frame entry bike. Mine started at 24.00/10.85 lbs/kg and is now at 19.14/8.6 with 400g pedals. It's in here somewhere if you want a laugh. My parts are off Nashbar and ebay. Also saving for a Hongfu 900g frame. You could chop an easy pound sorry 450g with lighter wheels. Several Alu clincher are at 1450-1550g for the set and under $400. Take care with the tires and tubes, another easy pound or 452g for you non colonists. By RiverCity are referring to Sacramento, CA area ?

Definitely buy a new wheelset. Probably the easiest way of losing some weight. Also a pair of planet-x brakes will bring your weight down pretty good as well while possibly improving your braking power.

I will be using these as a good set of training wheels for now until I can scrounge up enough money for a lighter in weight wheelset. And no, I'm in Lawrence, KS and it might just be a local thing to call it River City.

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Strava | instagram

The brakes would drop probably 40-50 grams and probably be a bit cheaper. So my question is "really"? I heard that some cnc'ed brakes don't feel as solid as Red or dura-ace. Do you have a pair?

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Strava | instagram

Honestly, I think you're making the same mistake I made when I first started riding. I upgraded my first bike (a Trek 1000) with Ultegra 6600 bits, expecting the bike to be faster. It was, but the expense was too much. Even if you transfer all these parts to a new frame, you'll have a light-ish frame with a hodge-podge of components, some of which accomplish the lightweight goal, other which, don't. Not to mention that most of the parts you are using are at least one generation old.

Here's my $.02 (take it or leave it, up to you). Go out, buy a CAAD 10 or other comparable lightweight bike. Sell you present one as is, and start fresh with a better platform. You'll save money in the long-run, and have a lighter bike than you would have, if you transfer your current parts over to a new bike.

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2010 Madone 5 (retired)
2012 SpeedConcept 7
2012 Cobia
2013 Superfly
2013 Madone 5

Totally agree with the above comments - wheels and tyres will make a the biggest, most noticeable difference to your ride - smoother, acceleration and bling . No other upgrade on any of my bikes has had anywhere near the effect of even moderately nice wheel such as my Fulcrum 5 with GP400s tyres.

Anything else you upgrade on your Trek is only really going to give you satisfaction rather than on the road performance. But then half, if not more, of my bike building joy is in the way it looks - boys toys!

I actually just bought a pair but haven't installed them. Picking them up though I can feel a huge difference. As to brake performance, I hear it's very good but not as good as the performance benchmark that is dura-ace. I'm bought them because I had super cheap tektro bikes that I had from a previous build and wanted something much better than that.



I partially agree with this. If you like Trek and wanna stay with that brand, I'd just get another one but more along the lines of a Madone (especially since they now come in aluminum if you'd rather go that route) as a frameset and transfer all the parts save perhaps the crank (won't fit on newer frames but if you get a previous-gen Madone it will).

I understood where you were coming from until you mentioned that the crank wouldn't fit a newer frame. Where do you get that information? Trek has been using the BB90 system from 2008 to the present. It is unchanged. Running a GXP crank simply means swapping out to a GXP bearing on the non-drive side. Any dealer can supply the parts for about $20. The only difference is that SOME Speed Concepts use the BB86 standard, but that doesn't have any effect on the crank selection.

I stand behind my earlier comment. Case in point, I just picked up a 2013 Madone 5.2. With pedals, cages, DuoTrap sensor, and my K-Edge, it tipped the scales at 18lbs. Total cost was under $2,500. It's a 60cm version, so the weights will be a little higher based on size. Sure, it comes with the Bontrager Race wheels, which aren't great, but comparing cost and ROI, you come out ahead in this case.

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2010 Madone 5 (retired)
2012 SpeedConcept 7
2012 Cobia
2013 Superfly
2013 Madone 5

I'm considering returning my 3T wheelset and looking for something around the 1600g range, or even a set of chinese carbon clinchers that are supposed to be sub 1300g. New tires will be a must soon, as mine will be used on the roller soon for the remainder of their lives. With those, and a return of my SRAM red brakes and a purchase of planet x forged brakes, I will see a dramatic weight savings once I find out the actual weight of the dengfu frame. If I'm estimating correctly, and I used the 3T wheelset still, this should come in just under 16.5 lbs. So if I could find a lighter wheelset, I could drop another pound might see this come in below 16, which would be incredibly light for me, considering the lightest I've ridden is just under 20 pounds (plus my portly body). This is all depending on whether I can get the money together. It may be a while before the wheelset and frame change.

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Strava | instagram

I don't mean this as a hack. I wish to offer perspective. I posted this above. It dovetails with everything else said here. I now have a hodge podge. 2300/Sora/Tiagra/Nashbar/Neuvation/Merek, etc . . . . . But it is all in your head. The bike, the parts don't care, and they can't tell. I "upgraded" my chainset to Tiagra. My $800 bike now weighs 19 lbs, within spit of the $2500 bike. It weighs less than CF Colnago at the shop. The biggest difference in the ride that anyone can do is let out 10-15 psi in the tires. If you race or are a fanatic, this obviously doesn't apply.

I think I just for schooled haha.


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