Focus Izalco - help me build a lightweight bike!

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HillyAudax
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2024 10:46 pm

by HillyAudax

Recently bought as a second hand. Planning to take it to the dolomites this summer.

Would love it to bring it from the current 7.25 kg to 6.79...just because...

Planned upgrades/modifications in the short term:

- Chainrings, currently on a 53/39... given the mountain adventures 50/34 would be wiser
- Casette: 11-28 is a bit ambitious. Would love a 11-34 but a bit worried if its feaseable, I have been reading mix stories.
- Also have some Assioma pedals in a different bike, so might use those ocasionally.

Maybe:
-Its on a tubeless setup at the moment, but my first time. Might go back to my standard gp5000 + ride now TPU if more practical.

But really looking to get some ideas and suggestions from everyone.
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Discodan
Posts: 406
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 2:55 am
Location: Sydney

by Discodan

Welcome. The easiest 120g you can get there is a lightweight saddle, then it gets a bit harder. For that trip you might swap the 1 piece heavy cockpit out for a 2 piece setup which can save 100g

by Weenie


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reedplayer
Posts: 824
Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:10 am

by reedplayer

Hello,
did you weigh the parts by yourself? This includes some very unusual weights, f.e.frame used to weigh rather 800 gr (despite the colour!), the focus seatpost imo cant weigh 100 gr, i would guess twice as much. Seatpost clamp 40 gr. is unusually heavy, as well as 80 gr. for the bottle cages, lighter alternatives: https://r2-bike.com/PROCRAFT-Seatpost-C ... olored-red
https://www.ebay.de/itm/195478958650?ha ... R-S9x_OhYw

are you shure you need 34-33? The dolomites are not particularly steep in most places, 34/28 should be sufficient.
Last edited by reedplayer on Tue Jan 16, 2024 12:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

OtterSpace
Posts: 261
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:28 am
Location: California Silicon Valley

by OtterSpace

First off welcome to the forum.

I have a huge soft spot for the Izalco Max but don't know all the details of this exact iteration but I do have the rim version from the same era and a paralane.

Some thoughts:
I agree with the posters above regarding reported weight and the seat being a fairly easy place to save weight.

There is a lot of weight in the chainset and BB. Presuming that it has PF30 like the rim Izalco and Paralane then sell the exiting chainset and swaping out the BB to accept a dub or 30mm spindle could be worthwhile given you already want different gearing.

For the best balance of weight and shifting quality I'd go R9200 50/34 chainrings with or without a power meter spider using Red D1 (ligher) crankarms or Easton EC90 SL (heavier) depending on cost and BB swap factors. I see that you have garmin power pedals but you could sell them and go dura ace pedals and a power spider for less weight if it makes sense to sell for overall cost or weight.

You can get a 11/30 dura ace 11s cassette or a red22 11/32 cassette that is super light but doesn't shift quite as well. There are tons of 11s lightweight aftermarket cassettes but I personally wouldnt recommend them due to further reduced shifting quality vs red22 and especially Shimano. For Shimano 11s 11/34 you would need a heavy ultegra cassette but you could grab one and another chain for when you go climbing.

If you know your fit you could save some weight with other bar stems. The same goes for the handlebar tape which is far cheaper.

Chain wise dura ace 12s works on 11s and is a solid balance of speed, longevity, and weight.

Darimo offers a good seatpost for saving weight.

If you stick with Shimano go with a direct mount hanger for reduced weight and improved shifting.

Shimano 11s calipers are mid at best. 12s 105 would be better than your dura ace and is compatible. For an optimizer I would recommend magura for a build like this but it is not a default recommendation.

I'll leave the wheels to others but there are many things you could optimize there.

Rotors are subservient to calibers and wheels but Galfer is a fairly safe choice.

More specific to my Focus bikes:
The RAT axle system sucks for road and should be removed. Cruel Components axels and RAT replacement retaining elements are the best replacement and can be found on r2-bike. Robert Axle project is not as good but way better than the garbage RAT parts which again should be replaced.

From my experience the Focus seatpost clamp is garbage even though its fairly light. I'd recommend Smud, which you would have to reach out to for a custom order, or Carbon-Ti for a solid but heavier off the shelf option.

Similarly the Focus headset on my two bikes offer a lot of room for improvement with FSA SL or AER bearings but cost/g is questionable.

All of the above could get a bike to sub 6 easily so find what fits your budget and needs best.

poulhansen
Posts: 300
Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:49 pm
Location: Danmark

by poulhansen

There are several Izalco WW threads here with total(real life) weight lists. Start with those. You'll get a lot of tips from below 5 kg bike builds.

As mentioned by others: Your list is not realistic. My red painted frame is 768 g and I know of a black frame weighing 748 g.
Cannondale Super Six HiMod 2017 6.7 kg
Cannondale six13, 2004, 5.50kg
Focus Izalco Max, 2023 4.418 kg

HillyAudax
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2024 10:46 pm

by HillyAudax

Thanks for the notes. Obviously it looks like I messed up somehow the frame weighting...putting an estimate placeholder then and will update on the next rebuild.

The seatpost I did confirm and the weight seems to be correct as the previous owner already had a couple of upgrades. The axles are no longer RAT and I'm on the Robert Axle.

Will start with a new saddle and mull over the actual gear configuration that I need for the summer. Will keep everyone posted

by Weenie


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