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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 4:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 418
Litespeed Ghisallo - Medium - Finished Build


Total bike weight: 4.850kg

Frame: Litespeed Ghisallo 2007 - Medium
Fork: Enve 1.0 - 200mm steerer
Headset: Cane Creek AER 1 1/8
Spacers: AER spacers
Seatpost clamp: Generic Carbon
Seatpost: New Ultimate EVO - 0 setback
Seat: SAEVID SCR - carbon
Stem: New Ultimate EVO - 100mm
Top cap: Carbon Ti - Carbon Matt
Expander bolt: Carbon Ti X-plug
Bar: Zipp SL 42cm - traditional bend - 1cm cut off each end
Bartape: Deda Trafornatto tape
Bottle cages and hardware: New Ultimate EVO bottle cage
Outer cables: Powercordz SWIFT
Inner cables: Powercordz SWIFT
Brakes: Ciamillo Gravitas SL - carbon
Brake pads: Reynolds Cyro Blue
Front derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace 9000
Rear derailleur: Shimano Dura Ace 9000 with Fiber Lyte UL 9000 carbon gear plate
Crankset: Zipp Vuma Quad - 172.5mm Compact
Bottom Bracket: Zipp Vuma Quad - Ceramic BSA (english)
Chainrings: Zipp Vuma Quad 50t x 34t
Chainring bolts: Zipp std
Chain: Yaban Ti
Shifters: Shimano Dura Ace 9000
Cassette: Omni Race Ti-Ceramic 12- 25
Wheels: Reynolds RZR
Hubs: Reynolds RZR
Spokes: Reynolds RZR
Rims: Reynolds RZR - 40mm
Wheel skewers: Control Tech - Race Ti bolt-on
Tires: Tufo Extreme Jet <160g - tubular
Pedals: TriRig Mecury
Tape/glue: Tufo tubular tape

Image
Image


Last edited by lannes on Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:36 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:46 pm
Posts: 331
Location: Amsterdam
Ghisallo's are always nice. Maybe if I had to pick one bike for the rest of my life it would b a Ghisallo, such a classic!

Amazing how "easy" you got it under 5 kg :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:56 am 
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Posts: 418
TimmS wrote:
Ghisallo's are always nice. Maybe if I had to pick one bike for the rest of my life it would b a Ghisallo, such a classic!

Amazing how "easy" you got it under 5 kg :thumbup:


Thanks, the main area of weight loss is in the wheelset, all up including cassette, skewers and tubs/tape, the RZR's are 1.49kg

This is really good for a 40mm profiled wheel.

Also the frame weighs a certified 787gms, I got the frame back in 2007, 7 years later it still looks like new.

I'm going to keep mine for as long as I can, they do make an excellent bikes

If you can find a 2007-2008 model, these are significantly stiffer due to the ovalised tubes coming into the bottom bracket.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:55 pm 
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Excellent! A couple of thoughts. You may want to check the lower stack height on the Cane Creek headset and the dropout to crown height on the Enve against your current set up since it could affect the handling of your bike. The New Ultimate clamp also works very well and is light for not much money. Will Tofu tires are light they don't roll well. When I ran them the road noise was so loud that I was actually glad when I flatted and had to put on a different tubular.

How does the Yaban chain work for you?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Posts: 418
Juanmoretime wrote:
Excellent! A couple of thoughts. You may want to check the lower stack height on the Cane Creek headset and the dropout to crown height on the Enve against your current set up since it could affect the handling of your bike. The New Ultimate clamp also works very well and is light for not much money. While Tofu tires are light they don't roll well. When I ran them the road noise was so loud that I was actually glad when I flatted and had to put on a different tubular.

How does the Yaban chain work for you?


Yes the stack height will be effected by the Cane Creek AER , I'll have to add a spacer, or flip the stem.

I don't have much of a nosie problem with the Tufo's, maybe because I only run them at their minimum recommended of 140psi.

The Yaban chain is not as good as a Dura Ace, it shifts ok, but I don't think it's as stiff.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:09 pm 
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Posts: 273
Location: Ontario, Canada
Those warning stickers on your wheels have got to go!

Love the build though, such a nice compliment of high performance parts.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:42 pm 
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Posts: 590
^this^

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:40 pm 
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Posts: 1311
Location: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
The tubes look nice, in particular the bulge butt/swaged seat tube.

But really? An in-line seat post. I have never met anyone who needed one on a road bike, but other people tell me such people do exist. So, here's an idea for you ... Find a longish hill with a grade of 5 or 6 or 7 or thereabouts percent, and try riding up it in the saddle.

If you are sacrificing correct position so that you can use your fancy lightweight in-line seatpost that former mountain bikers sometimes like the look of, that is a mistake.

Not sure I like the look of that Reynolds fork. Looks like it is designed to take fenders.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:45 am 
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Location: Athens, Greece
A classic ww

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:20 pm 
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Posts: 2350
Location: Vienna, AUT
Valbrona, looks like he could easily use a set back seatpost from the position of his saddle. But why? If he can achieve the correct position with zero set back and the post is lighter, then there is no issue. You seem to imply that a zero set back post always puts you in a sub-optimum position, which would be incorrect. So, is this a fashion issue for you?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:55 pm 
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Posts: 418
Valbrona wrote:
The tubes look nice, in particular the bulge butt/swaged seat tube.

But really? An in-line seat post. I have never met anyone who needed one on a road bike, but other people tell me such people do exist. So, here's an idea for you ... Find a longish hill with a grade of 5 or 6 or 7 or thereabouts percent, and try riding up it in the saddle.

If you are sacrificing correct position so that you can use your fancy lightweight in-line seatpost that former mountain bikers sometimes like the look of, that is a mistake.

Not sure I like the look of that Reynolds fork. Looks like it is designed to take fenders.


I actually had to go to the inline post to get my right position, so it's the best of both worlds

The Reynolds UL fork is a "road" fork, so definitely not for fenders, at the time it was the lightest production fork, I think other than the THM Scapula SP it still is

http://www.spectrum-cycles.com/forks.php


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:40 pm 
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Posts: 2643
Do not switch to the AER headset!!! Don't do it!!! They are crap! I say this from experience. Accept a few extra grams of the absolutely trouble-free CK headset. Look at my Ghisallo build and see. The AER headset will fail almost as quickly as you can install a new one. The Teflon "bushing" is worthless.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:51 am 
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Posts: 418
delete, please see first post, for updated build


Last edited by lannes on Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 12:53 pm 
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lannes wrote:
Image


Is it just me or is your brake pad upside down?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 418
Wingnut wrote:
Is it just me or is your brake pad upside down?


They are upside down, I'm using Reynolds Cryo blue pads in the Ciamillo pad holders, there is no way to secure the pads, so if you use them the right way up they get ejected when you brake.


Last edited by lannes on Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:46 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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