Winter Project - Track bikes - ?s for those with experience
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
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We have a lot of fun with my son's bikes. He loves to ride and race. As long as he is into it, I will support him as best I can. It's a hell of a lot better than video games. And I have a lot of fun with the builds... and riding with him.
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48 X 14 is sort of the go-to set-up for endurance events on the track. I know a GB masters rider who is happy winding it up to 170rpm with that gear...
Cruising around on the track at 40kph is 90rpm so it sort of makes sense if you can spin your legs.
Cruising around on the track at 40kph is 90rpm so it sort of makes sense if you can spin your legs.
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A few more photos. My bike is complete but with a temporary seatpost (no chain in the pics).
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On the gearing topic, there are only two ways to go faster on a bicycle. Larger gear or more leg speed. Since he is restricted he should not be in a gear larger than what is legal to race on in fact for training he should be on an even smaller gear than he races on so he can raise his cadence, become smoother, and feel the woosh effect in a race.
You may say that he is already undergeared an that other parents let their children train on huge gears but those kids won't be so far ahead in a race because they won't have trained on that gear. I myself a junior rider train on a 48 by 16 and have been on the derny at over 40mph with this combo.
You may say that he is already undergeared an that other parents let their children train on huge gears but those kids won't be so far ahead in a race because they won't have trained on that gear. I myself a junior rider train on a 48 by 16 and have been on the derny at over 40mph with this combo.
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That's the path we're following. The coaches are a bit frustrated at the lack of compliance by parents regarding junior gearing. But (and I think this is a cultural thing) the coaches don't want to enforce the restriction outside of training and tell the parents the kids need to be on restricted gears.
Also on a gearing note I would recommend a 48 16 for winter training for your bike as well. My coach who was on Australia's national team said this is the gear they did all their winter training on. I most of all would recommend purchasing a track flap,ie a bag filled with chainrings and sprockets. This is most optimal since depending on the track, event, discipline or exercise. You can change the gear.
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Maybe a bit late to be asking this, but is it wrong to actually glue track tubulars? It seems tape alone is the installation method of choice here. That scares me. But people are looking at me like I have 2 heads when they see that I glue my tubulars.
An aussie friend (also a weight weenie) suggests shellac instead of regular tubular glue.
An aussie friend (also a weight weenie) suggests shellac instead of regular tubular glue.
Awesome pictures and awesome bikes - looks like a ton of fun!
I see you've got your bike pretty much settled, but regarding lightweight components in the track world, I've found that the Dura Ace 7710 crank/BB (the octalink sys, with "hollow" driveside crankarm) are the lightest around at 505g for the arms and 179g for the BB, even lighter than the FSA Carbon. A lot of top-level riders use either DA 7600 or 7710. That said, the Omnium/GXP system is extremely stiff and much cheaper.
I've also found carbon bars like the Easton or Cobra to be the same or heavier than top quality aluminum. Here again, stiffness is king and 31.8 is probably the way to go.
All the frames are porky. Cervelo's excellent T1 is over 2kg, iirc.
I see you've got your bike pretty much settled, but regarding lightweight components in the track world, I've found that the Dura Ace 7710 crank/BB (the octalink sys, with "hollow" driveside crankarm) are the lightest around at 505g for the arms and 179g for the BB, even lighter than the FSA Carbon. A lot of top-level riders use either DA 7600 or 7710. That said, the Omnium/GXP system is extremely stiff and much cheaper.
I've also found carbon bars like the Easton or Cobra to be the same or heavier than top quality aluminum. Here again, stiffness is king and 31.8 is probably the way to go.
All the frames are porky. Cervelo's excellent T1 is over 2kg, iirc.
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Thanks. We decided to make weight a lesser consideration than budget. We got a lot of performance for the dollar with these bikes.