Building a bike for climbing

[durhamhale]

I'm looking to undertake my first self-build and my main aim is to get the best climbing bike I can afford. I've got a budget of around £3000 for the frameset, groupset and wheelset. I've got abit more to spend on the bars, stem, saddle, etc but I want to get the main bits sorted first.

I'd really appriciate any help with either finding the best value/lightest parts and any pointers on where is the best place to save weight, such as is it best to get the best frame I can with a cheaper groupset or wheels as they are easier to upgrade later?

So far I'm looking along the lines of the following framsets (any more would be appreciated):
Argon 18 Gallium Pro (2013 or 2012)
Boardman Elite SLR 9.8 (2013)
Canyon CF SLX (2013)
Cervelo R3 (2013)

I've seen a S-works Tarmac SL4 2012 for a decent price (more than the ones mentioned above but I could possibly use my current wheels for a while) but I can't find a weight for it anywhere - anyone got any ideas?

Groupset: I'm learning towards SRAM Force or possibly Red as they seem to have the best value to weight ratio. Campag Chorus seems another option but I've got no experience of any Campag groupsets.

Wheelset wise, I'm probably going to stick to clinchers for now due to their practicality. The lightest/best value set I found so far are the Soul S2.0. Has anyone got any experience with them? I already own a set of Cole Rollen Elite at 1570 grams (http://www.colewheels.com/pages/product ... php?ids=10" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) which I could potentially use until I could afford something better.

Thanks for any advice or input!

[prendrefeu]

Consider the FM066SL, saving you a considerable amount of your available budget to be put into other components, and getting you a remarkably great ride quality for the price.

Wheels: take a look at the offerings from Xiamen FarSports. the 38mm CCs are great, but you won't get too much lighter even if you head for the 20mm CCs. 20mm tubs on the other hand can be sub 1000g easy, shipped for less than you think.

Also remember: what goes up must come down. Get some decent brakes. There are plenty of threads on this subject, tending towards the following options more often than not:
-EE Brakes for superior braking
-Planet-X "CNC" brakes for great braking performance and weight vs. price paid.
-The brake pads you use will have an exponential factor on your ability to come to a stop/slow down.

[airwise]

What do you weigh and what level of power/fitness do you possess?

[Leviathan]

Ive got Soul 3.0sl on a Boardman SLR, Ive only done 1000kms on it but I really like the combination as its got a little more compliance coming down hairpins than the Canyon I had previously (but the Canyon was a good 4 or 5 years old, dunno). Think the gallium pro is heavier.. - whole thing came in well below your price but I bought the SRAM Fred group piece by piece. But, and I hate to be a buzzkill, I live at the bottom of a cat 3 climb which I do at least once a week and Im still sh!t..its not the bike

[tommasini]

Seriously - if you are trying to build a lightweight climbing bike - DO consider tubbies. No added cost (actually the wheels would be a good amount less costly and tires only marginally more costly) and you lose a half kilo in weight - that IS significant.

[Rick]

I'm a clincher user after using tubulars for decades.

But if I were building a special climbing bike, meaning one for specific important climbing races; and if I were at a competetive body weight, I would definitely go tubular. The last pund really does make a difference, especially in the wheels.

When you are not doing important races competeively it just doesn't mean that much.

[durhamhale]

prendrefeu - The Xiamen FarSports wheels you mentioned do look very tempting but are they good quality? I'm always a bit sceptical when things seem to good to be true!

airwise - I am about 5' 11" (180 cm) and weight about 66kg. I'd say I'm at a pretty good level of fitness - got a good base over the winter. I'm not a big powerful rider get beaten in most sprints! I don't have a power meter so I can't give any exact figures.

tommasini - it's not the cost of tubs that put me off - it's just the practicality of punctures when using them for training regularly. I'm defiantly considering a pair as "best" wheels but that might be somewhat further in the future.

[Leviathan]

yes indeed...Red RD & right Brifter, Force FD (I think) & left brifter. Not really that planned, just worked out that way and then once Starnut said it was a cool thing to do I realized Im a trendsetter, not merely a cheapskate!

[Dozer]

If it's a pure climbing bike, you might consider a 1x11 driveline. It would save you the weight of a shifter and the front deraillure. I've looked at the gears and it could work. The way I figure is anything over 30mph down hill I'm better off not pedaling and tucking in to get aero instead.

I also give a second vote for the FM066SL frame and using the money saved else where to save weight.

[t0ph0id]

How much is the FM066SL?
Westbrook cycles are having a sale on the Scott CR1 SL currently, £499. Bargain. Medium comes in at 860g.
http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/frames ... 12-p194662

[Leviathan]

IMHO with special offers of old stock and EBAY Im not convinced the Hong Fu route is such a bargain - especially into Spain where everything now seems to have to pay like 100% customs duties!