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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
Hi Crashstest.
- Just what I mean.. -But they know how to make the true roadbike-stuff ! (still got My Record hubs, doublebutted stainless spokes, and MIXER rims (all Italian Racing Wheels), and the Spanish 7sp. Zeus 2000 cassette. All, looks n feels New !

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-Will Race for food..


Last edited by spOOn1965 on Wed May 01, 2013 11:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:55 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:27 pm 
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Location: Copenhagen City
Racing tip: To achieve maximum stopping force, the frontwheel overtakes the job to a close 100%.
On 1199 Panigale, this "friction" comes from 330mm = 13" -discs w. calipers !
Attachment:
2012-ducati-1199-panigale -Max front brake-.jpg
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-Again, as with the lower weight of bike, -I have beaten the Ducati ! - I will run a size 26" diameter on My "discs", and as mentioned ealier, made in ceramics!
-It is, and can only be, Mavics.
Attachment:
Mavic_Logo.jpg
Mavic_Logo.jpg [ 9.63 KiB | Viewed 573 times ]


Pics. in the morning.
- and My light-weight **Dortmund@@ bell IS IN THE FINAL !

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-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 12:10 am
Posts: 1259
Location: Amsterdam, the Netherlands
spOOn1965 wrote:
If Ducati made Bicycle parts like they do their MC's, I would definately be interested.
Italians surely knows -how to design , and -how to get top performance.
Sadly, Italians don't make nice mechanical parts for MTB's. [...] It will be, -in Classic Ducati colour-scheme , -all components of highest racing quality, -and will run on Full Slick tires.

So what we get is an offroad bike with slick tires in Ducati colors. Sounds like a bling bling toy to me instead of a sensible usable build. Components of the highest racing quality used to get the sunday newspaper and an expresso

Image

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And if I ever meet an aardvark, I'm going to step on its damn protruding nasal implement until it couldn't suck up an insect if its life depended on it.


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:58 pm
Posts: 27
Borussia dortmund is sooo goodddd that marco reus decided to announce his departure to bayern munchen just before semifinal match of champions league.
That shows you how low class borussia dortmund is as a football club that one of their top players can be THAT RUDE!

Any ways great build and this is one MTB im looking forward to see. Congrats.


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
-Offroad bike.. - Yes, excatly !
When I ride in My city, it's not all fresh made tarmac ! -I meet potholes , and like in Amsterdam, old city areas, with bumpy cobblestone's. - I cross parks on grubble-paths, and if there is some granit steps on My way, I'll take them too (If no one there).
My friends, riding true carbon racing bikes, chooses alternative(read longer), and smoother -routes, and I understand their concerns for their fragile parts.
Attachment:
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I have a car (not easy) - I rarely use it ! My main way of moving around daily, is on bicycle.
It has been like this for 25years. -Long time to test My bicycle-needs.
This build, will hopefully end up, leaving a : Very strong, very safe, long lasting, fast and light -Bike.
I know the worst areas in town, -and this "offroader" can eat it all !
So You are right about something !
The bling bling issue... If I really wanted bling, then the choice of parts would have been quite different.
-And so would the price, and weight.
This Bike will run, every day, until the first road-salting starts.
(I think I will use Leather Flite saddles for everyday use, and the SLR-tekno for especially sunny days.!)
Btw. I'm making a 5mm thick neoprene cover for the SLR, to protect corners, -if leaned against a wall.

-Timo, please tell Me which parts to change, so I can go faster (still in a safe way)?
- And how to get the bike more usable and less bling ?

Normally I race people for food ! -But if You ever visit Copenhagen, let Me know, and I will race You for this espresso You mentioned... First man to the coffee-shop wins.

_________________
-Will Race for food..


Last edited by spOOn1965 on Wed May 01, 2013 11:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
Thx clxcolnago, (btw. I am not a true Dortmund fan, just liked the bell for My yellow salty-bike ;) )

Mavic. (-a big boy in cycling.)
In 1999, Mavic, Michelin and Hutchinson, presented the combined efforts of making a Tubeless MTB wheel-setup.
The well known Universal System Tubeless : UST.
It was one fine invention, as We all know. (Thank You Mavic)
- No inside holes in rim, leavng the integrity (=strenght) of the rim, untouched.
- No rim tape needed.
- And if runned tubeless, then snakebites are yesterday.

They already made the best ceramic brake-walls (V-brake era).
-So here we go :
1999 CrossMax 26" front. (no diff. versions, those days).
New, from box. (-and I got it for a song !)
Attachment:
20130501_140626 (440x330).jpg
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Attachment:
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Weight (damned !, -it's so black, pretty and strong) is 739gr. (Not light, but ok).

2005 Crossmax SL 26" front.
Light use, 100% intact ceramic BS, super smooth bearings. (But this Alu/Alu, is no good here.)
Attachment:
20130501_142527 (440x330).jpg
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Weight 649gr.

2011 Crossmax SLR V 26" rear.
New from box.
Attachment:
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Attachment:
20130501_140751 (600x450).jpg
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Weight 831gr.

Rear Wheel(SLR) goes on bike ! -And the Black 1999 on front.
The 1999,just looks better than the 90 grams lighter Silver SL. - I got the silver SL rear-wheel too, and maybe I will build a Mercedes Silver Arrow.. (Just kidding..).

Soon some Very light Tires n Tubes.

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-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
Question : Are there any Wheel-producers, that still makes a high-end (and light) 26" V-brake Wheel ?
-Or some old secret stock (like how I got these mint-Crossmaxes.) ?

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-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
The Skinny, Bald Basterds...
Attachment:
Pirelli Pro Slick (640x445).jpg
Pirelli Pro Slick (640x445).jpg [ 149.62 KiB | Viewed 506 times ]

I have tried hard to get these Italian Pirelli's, in Ultra-slim version....è impossibile !
So I have chosen the old UST-partner Michelin, and the German Schwalbe.
Attachment:
20130501_200321 (450x392).jpg
20130501_200321 (450x392).jpg [ 146.06 KiB | Viewed 506 times ]

Michelin WildRun'R 26x 1.10" fold. (claimed 200gr.) Real weight 223gr. +/-3gr.
Schwalbe Kojak 26x 1.35" fold. (claimed 295gr.) Real weight 307gr. +/-3gr.
Schwalbe Durano 26x 1.10" fold. (claimed 260gr.) Real weight 256gr. !!

Tubes :
Continental Race 26 Supersonic 26x1 (claimed 45gr.) Real weight 49gr. +/-1gr.
Schwalbe 12A 26x 1.00-1.50 Real weight 123gr.

I have not finally decided what to use, on wich Wheels. Many combinations, esp. if the silver SL gets a second chance, just to get the lowest weight possible on wheelset).
But its sure, that the front tire will not be bigger than the rear !

I also have the Maxxis Xenith 26x 1.50" 415gr..... Looks super cool (Ducati), but it is so slow. I will take a Photo though, with this "Balloon" tire on the rear, and Kojak 1.35 front

It could be nice with a 26" tube, in the 1.30-1.60 range, -a really LIGHT one please.

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-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 5:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 6:27 am
Posts: 10
Build looks good so far! For light v-brake wheels, I only know of the Stan's ZTR355 Rim (~380g/rim) + any light spokes (~143g/32/rim) + any light hub (~120g/front, ~289g/rear) = ~1455g for front and rear wheels

Of course, the hubs and spokes can go lighter than that depending on how much you are willing to spend. I used DT revolution spokes and Novatec hubs as an estimate. And wow, you are planning to use such thin tires? Won't it be difficult to have to deal with potholes and stuff? I think using 1.25" tires and above should be fine tho, but 1.1" is a little on the slim side?

I've had a bad experience with light tubes (they keep losing air). I'm currently using some Schwalbe tubes for 1.0-1.5" tires and they weigh around 92g, but they don't lose air easily :) Anyway, you are really resourceful! You managed to find such ancient wheels, thumbs up to you! I think the black set will match better than the white though, since your rigid fork is black. Your frame has some white on it, but I think keeping the white to a minimum will be nicer :)


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 11:19 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
Hi again HiddenStar.
Here the 1.10" Michelin, on a CM-1999 Rear Wheel.
Tire is still wider than rim ! -Very Important to protect rim-walls, if squeezed down, between cobblestones.
I think I will dress all My CM's, with different tire/tube setup's. And then test them out.
Attachment:
20130502_113851 (440x330).jpg
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Attachment:
20130502_114235 (440x370).jpg
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Attachment:
20130502_114428 (460x283).jpg
20130502_114428 (460x283).jpg [ 150.08 KiB | Viewed 478 times ]

And You say Schwalbe 1.00-1.50 tubes at 92gr !!! Please tell Me the Schwalbe Code (12A ?).

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-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 12:41 pm 
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Posts: 10
Tires look good on those rims! I can't recall exactly what model those tubes were as I have thrown away the packaging. In my country, they are marketed as "light weight" tubes, so they cost a little more than the normal ones. According to the Schwalbe website, my guess is the SV 14A.


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
-The Schwalbe 14A (claimed 95gr.) Real weight 115gr. -are Very good. I have used them too on other bikes. But they are size 1.50-2.10. a little to big for the slimmies.
Attachment:
20130502_203732 (580x483).jpg
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Racing tip. Remember to secure the frontwheel, so it stays put, no matter what resistance it will meet !
Attachment:
early-offroad-motorcycle.jpg
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Skewers.
Many forms. Huge diff. in weight.
Cheap ebay titanium QR's, 45-55gr/pair. Lousy craftmanship, rattling metal pieces, produced by different manufactuers, then assembled and branded by third party.. no thx.

The Better Cheap ones, comes from same asian areas, but from known brands (with good reputations). Easy to feel and see the quality and fine finish. Actually I like these Token 48gr. a pair.
Attachment:
20130502_202106 (580x435).jpg
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The Mavic MTB skewers steel are Heavy ! 113gr. a pair.
I only have the rear Mavic titanium QR. 46gr. rear. -A superbly smooth experience to use !
- And Very strong...
Attachment:
20130502_200501 (580x435).jpg
20130502_200501 (580x435).jpg [ 150.27 KiB | Viewed 445 times ]


The Tune Skyline, has won my Heart. -Super design, top finish, and light (claimed 24gr. a pair). -Non QR.
-and I have never seen a Ducati with QR-levers !
I will soon order this (expensive) Jewel.... maybe.

_________________
-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:12 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
My Chris King head set was born with a Heavy-Duty Top cap, and M6 35mm steel bolt.
-My pretty Thomson SP-clamp weighs like a truck part.
-They were the best... -In the last millenium.
Total weight with steel bolt's 50gr+ .
Here with ti-bolt's. Real weight 42gr.
Attachment:
20130503_191444 (620x465).jpg
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Mcfk from Germany, can do this more elegant.
Attachment:
Wedding ring..perhaps (600x492).jpg
Wedding ring..perhaps (600x492).jpg [ 156.39 KiB | Viewed 421 times ]

SP-clamp : Mcfk Sub5 35.0 mm Black ti-bolt Real weight 5 gr.
Stem cap : Mcfk UD w. alu-bolt Black Real Weight 5.6gr.
Total weight 11gr.
Attachment:
20130503_191644 (620x465).jpg
20130503_191644 (620x465).jpg [ 156.28 KiB | Viewed 421 times ]


- Has anybody heard of failing Cap/Bolt's, or Seat post clamp's, -when made in this light manner ?
I must try these two carbon-treats! -If they fail, I'll get the "originals" back, from the drawers.
(no cranks in mail today...)

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-Will Race for food..


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 6:27 am
Posts: 10
Nope, never heard of failures from those parts. Be careful to torque the seat clamp correctly tho, especially if you're using a carbon post. And you might want to check if you should use an expander cap for your carbon steerer or starnut (if the design allows). Anyway, that carbon seat clamp looks really nice!! Some deep wallet you have there haha :)

Can you get Schwalbe SV 14As in 1.0 - 1.5? Maybe those will be ~92g?


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 7:47 pm 
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Posts: 91
Location: Copenhagen City
-I will use the alu Thomson seat post, and the steerer tube has the special alu nut fittet already.

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-Will Race for food..


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Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 7:47 pm 


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