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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:39 am 
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He has done the polished finish before. It's just that most people prefer the paint. I would have painted mine metallic blue (same as my old bike) if I had the cash, I may do it in the future. But the bare metal/polish finish does have a certain charm.

Tinea Pedis wrote:
Just make sure you rotate those bars down a bit Rush.

I realised on that test ride that with the Ergonova bar you have to rotate it down anyway, otherwise the flat tops of the bars make an awkward angle with your wrists.

So I rotated the bar down and moved the shifters up a little. After a bit of fettling I think I've got a good position now which puts most of the pressure on my palm heel when on the hoods, yet I can still easily shift/brake from the drops.
btompkins0112 wrote:
Gorgeous frame! Begs for matching bars, stem and seatpost.....that would really, "tie the room together"

Well I could have gone for a 3T post but I've heard that they aren't as good as the Enve. I could have got the post and stem painted back/dark grey but I quite like the 'utilitarian' look of the bike. It's not as 'pretty' as other Baums, it has a more 'rustic' look.


Last edited by Rush on Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:39 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:02 am 
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phallenthoul wrote:
makes me wonder why Derren didnt do high polished finish before.

Been done for better part of two and a half years.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:12 am 
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It's the first one i've seen and it's just stunning. I've never had Baum envy before. :D
Congrats on the bike. :beerchug:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:34 am 
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Rush,
If I'm correct you ran these wheels on your steel bike for a while. How did they make that bike feel if I'm correct?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:05 am 
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Lovely bike Rush, enjoyed the story. Hope there's a good ride report to come what with the jump from steel to ti


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:44 am 
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This thing is unreal. Thanks to the raw finish it will look timeless. Very unique and different to all those colorful Baums. I absolutely love the classic look of this bike.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 12:56 pm 
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tigoose wrote:
Rush,
If I'm correct you ran these wheels on your steel bike for a while. How did they make that bike feel if I'm correct?

The bike felt more direct and firm when accelerating. The rim weight is basically the same, all the weight saving is in the hub. But the spokes are stronger and the flange spacing and design of the rear hub is light years removed from a 1994 hub. The bike would accelerate and climb better and you would notice a difference when jumping out of the saddle and putting the power down.

With regard to the change in rim width, the wider rim gave more comfort. A Michelin 23c tire on the Hed has the same profile as a Continental 25c tire on the Campagnolo rim. Using the Micheline 25c tire on Hed made the ride positively plush. Cobblestones and tram tracks and potholes just melt away. Frame clearance becomes a bit tight though. With the Baum I'm very close to the band on the front derailleur.

I've experimented running lower pressures on the Hed rim (down to 90 psi) but I've found I get more punctures, so I'm sticking with 100 psi. I'm 6'3" and 88 kg so I think that lower pressures isn't quite suited for me.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:46 am 
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Looks great! Nice to have the story behind it all too.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:05 am 
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great build!!! A 3t seatpost to close the combo would be awesome i think!!! Enjoy it.

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:34 am 
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nice break down.

did you forget to add the weight of the CK headset?

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:48 am 
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Nope that was included in the 1410 weight for the frame (which included the headset, bottom bracket and seat collar). Although the top seal of the headset wasn't included..I didn't weigh that separately.


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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:47 pm 
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Nailed it!
Looking forward to your ride report.
Check out stans rim tape and latex tubes to save some rotating weight and make the ride even better (for minimal expense).

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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 7:52 am 
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Well I've taken it out for a few short rides and it had its proper hit-out last Sunday.

It's funny the little things you notice first. One the short test rides one thing that immediately stuck with me was the sounds it makes were very different to my old bike. All those bigger tube diameters affect the acoustics a lot. There also appears to be a resonant frequency out of the saddle at about 28 km/h, and which point it sounds like the bar cages or rear derailleur are rattling loose.

The first long ride was cut short due to the seat post coming loose. I wasn't sure how much to tighten it and evidently it wasn't tight enough, so I had to stop every few kms on the way back and tighten it by the side of the road. I didn't want to overtighten it (first bike with a carbon seatpost!). Rang Darren and asked him about it and he said I should grease the collar and seat bolt and don't worry about over tightening it as the post and collar arrangement can take a fair amount of torque.

Started the 2nd ride with 5 N.m of torque on the post. This started slipping after about 15 km, so I tightened it as much as my small Allen key could and then it had no issues for the rest of the ride. I checked the torque when I got home and it was about 7 N.m.

In any case, the bike is ludicrously fast on the flats and on small inclines. The old bike always took a few pedal strokes to wind up and really get going, this bike responds with the first pedal stroke. The speed differential drops once the gradient approaches 10%, which you'd expect as by that point my body weight (I'm 88 kg) outweighs advantages in bike weight and stiffness. Although this also may be a technique issue as I'm also learning to use a compact crank for the first time. On my old bike, I'd run out of gears at about 7-8% so I'd become quite used at climbing out of the saddle for long periods. I'm beginning to find that I can sit and spin at gradients of 10% with this bike and I can ascend much faster.

The bike feels stronger and more secure on the descent as well. This is probably due to the stiffer front end than geometry, as the bottom bracket drop and wheelbase is almost the same as the old bike. The major geometry changes are the seat tube angle (73 vs 74-ish), longer chainstays (412 mm vs 400 ish) and shorter front centre.

This has a major affect on the bike fit, which is a very good thing as in late December last year I tweaked my neck at Kung Fu. Subsequent appointments with the physios have shown that I have very poor posture and I don't activate my deep neck flexors enough (quite common for tall guys apparently). It's highly likely that the old bike exacerbates this issue, as I have more weight on my hands and through my neck and shoulders due to the steeper seat tube angle. I'm also more stretched out when on the hoods. After about 4 hours on the old bike my shoulders and neck would become very painful.

With the new bike, my sit bones are much more stable on the saddle and my spine curvature is much better. My ribs are closer to my hips and its much easier to pull my chin closer to my chest and extend the back of my neck. Four hours on the Baum and my neck and shoulders are fine. I have some pain in my middle back, but this is due to my stiff back getting a nice stretch (I've always had a stiff middle back since I was a teenager).

Darren has said that one thing he takes a lot of pride in his bikes is a great fit. That after doing 8 hours in the saddle, you should be able to wake up the next morning, feel fresh and do it all again.

So the bike is a quantum leap, as well it should be! Ideas about bike design and construction have changed a lot in 20 years.

SRAM Force is quite nice so far. The upshifting (shifting to a higher gear) is fantastic compared to Shimano STi, the downshifting takes a bit of getting used to, especially with single downshifts. Making sure you are 'past the gate' on the ratchet takes a little while to adjust.

I think I've cut the rear brake housing too short near the rear brake, so I'll redo that again. I may redo the last bit of shifter housing on the rear derailleur as well, as Yokozuna supply a 340 mm section for this but everyone says that SRAM needs a longer loop. I've bought a new Yokozuna kit for my old bike and I'll cut off a longer section from that kit (it's the CX/Disc set) and put it on the Baum and see if it makes any difference. Some have suggested using the Shimano SP41 housing but I presume the Yokozuna housing is just as good.

If the sun comes out on the weekend I'll take some nice pictures.


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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 7:40 am 
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Sun came out today. For those of you sensitive to the Velominati's rules, I should warn you that I've broken a few. I await your howls or derision and scorn :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 8:00 am 
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That second last shot is all win! Damn polished finish is fantastic. On any Ti bike really.

Nicely done Rush, nicely done.

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Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 8:00 am 


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