Background:
Been a Mountain Biker since 1988, raced and generally enjoyed it all through my teens, however, Uni and Women made me give up around 1998, got back into Cycling around 2005, bought my first road bike (Trek 1000) to use on my Daily Commute c.32 Miles. Bought a Scott CR1 Elite in 2010, loved it, however it developed a crack in the right seatstay near the dropout, so got a warranty replacement to this current model, as a winter project, I decided to rebuild to go sub 13Ib.

Build:
The build is based on the following principles:

1. Budget/Value for money i.e no £1K spend on an individual component, when a £300 will do the same job for a similar weight/performance ratio. I think it’s called bang for the buck.

2. My riding is generally when I can nip out for a few hours, rather than long days in the saddle. I also Run a bit so need to split my time between that and the 3 kids and the Missus. I would like to do some Races again at some point in the future.

3. It needs to look goood.

I know its pretty vanilla for now buildwise, but I would like to go down the lines of tinkering with more components, get into making things out of Carbon, more dremelling, however I do prefer the finished/polished look more than agricultural type of look, also, it’s all about the detail and getting things just right.

Potential future updates on my radar:
-Pedals -> Bebop Chromoly (with Ward Ti Spindle) approx. 147g
-Stem -> Extralite RoadStem OC approx. 81g

All weights on the build list have been verified when the build was in pieces.

First Ride:
First ride is a misnomer, I have ridden the frame before, however the re-build meant that pretty much every component got replaced, changing the ride in most regards

Initial impressions were just how light this is in comparison to build 1, the front end feels extremely light, however, the feeling of acceleration and speed when you put the hammer down is amazing, having lost over 750 grams from the wheels is very noticeable.

Only real issues where with the Mt Zoom seatclamp which didn’t appear to keep the seatpost tight in the frame, think it is bottoming out on itself and not allowing enough clamping force to be applied. Will Fix with Dremel or swap out for the original until I find a light one that works.

Also, having a few issues with the gears, might be the combination of an old-ish chain on a new block and chainrings, will swap out if it persists.

Will feedback in a few months with a long term ride report.

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Scott CR1 - 12.84Ib

Very nice! I just bought a set of those Farsports clinchers.....do you like yours? The weight is very impressive.

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2012 Fuji Altamira SE - 6.42kg

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Beautiful work there!

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Exp001

When I see one of those saddles I always wonder how much cycling the user actually does. And what is it about your body or your cycling that makes you think you need an in-line seatpost?

Seats like the SMUD flex a good amount. For a heavier rider they may flex more than normal saddles. If you have nice bibs with a quality chamois they may be just as good as a seat with padding.

Looks super sharp!!!

Personally wouldn't put up with a seatpost clamp that doesn't work just to save 11g tho... I'd need 2 bottle cages too, but this is your bike, not mine!

Very nice bikes both!

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Wilier Cento Uno
Colnago Master X-light
Wilier 18carati

Thats a fair point, however, will be riding it twice daily for approx an hour each time during the commute, and for upto 4 hours at the weekend. It's fair to say most parts on the bike except for the obvious are being tried out at the moment, but in particular the Smud seat, which was purchased following on from many positive reviews for price/weight/suitability to bums that like SLR saddles. If it doesn't work I will swap it out for an SLR.

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Scott CR1 - 12.84Ib