BMC Team Machine SLR01 (update 8/17/15, pg. 5)
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Major props to you for being able to do 100 on a trail. I couldn't handle it- that takes some willpower.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
For longer rides I will use either Polar or Camelback insulated bottles, for shorter, your regular plastic cycling bottles. I did loose a bottle once while riding in a group which was not fun. These cages have years of use on them and grip OK but the bottles do tend to come loose once I hit a bump and I find myself pushing them back in. I want something with some more grip but not a death grip either.
That saddle appears to be pointed down a bit. Specialized romin evo saddles are meant to be 1-2 degrees above level. I didn't believe it till I tried it.
Thanks DKM! Your weight is really impressive! I'll be quite content with breaking 15lbs.
@ Bianchi10 - Saddle positions are all relative to the rider and position. There is no one right. The Romin Evo has a curved rear to help you roll your hips forward. I do a lot of my riding in the drops and this position is perfect for me. I actually like to sit a bit towards the front. The photo is not perfectly level either so that might play with the visual perception a bit. With this curved saddle you shouldn't measure level across the length of the saddle because of that curve at the rear but rather at the mid to front section, as per my fitter. I tried many different angles and etc. and this works best for me from short fast rides to centuries
@ Bianchi10 - Saddle positions are all relative to the rider and position. There is no one right. The Romin Evo has a curved rear to help you roll your hips forward. I do a lot of my riding in the drops and this position is perfect for me. I actually like to sit a bit towards the front. The photo is not perfectly level either so that might play with the visual perception a bit. With this curved saddle you shouldn't measure level across the length of the saddle because of that curve at the rear but rather at the mid to front section, as per my fitter. I tried many different angles and etc. and this works best for me from short fast rides to centuries
your fitter is wrong. Angling the nose down is the result of too high of a seat height and too much setback causing undue perenium pressure. Think of the saddle as being the tagent line to a circle- having the middle flat and nose down more than 2 degrees means the tangent line is at a greater angle relative to horizontal and all the saddle is doing is then cantilevering from behind the pelvis not below it. It will feel better because the nose is lower so there's less in the way, but it makes more sense for the saddle to be under and closer to horizontal as it will not push the hips forward under effort. On Steve Hogg's private site he has a good discussion about this and cites the Romin saddles as an example of people simply setting them up wrong.
+1, Agreed
Interesting. Might experiment at some point but currently I'm perfectly comfortable cruising and under efforts.
If you are comfortable then I wouldn't mess around with it. but if that day ever comes where you notice a change in comfort remember to try lowering the seatpost just a tad and angle it up and see if that helps.
Bought this today.
Comes in at 14.95lbs with the only deviation from standard being the saddle and the heavier (wider) bars. Thats with cage & pedals.
I'll change a few bits to bring the weight down a touch, nothing drastic.
Any idea if I can fit a smaller inside chain ring upfront? I'm going to struggle with 39/26 round here. Failing that it will be new chainset time, can I run a compact without taking links out of the chain / changing rear mech?
Comes in at 14.95lbs with the only deviation from standard being the saddle and the heavier (wider) bars. Thats with cage & pedals.
I'll change a few bits to bring the weight down a touch, nothing drastic.
Any idea if I can fit a smaller inside chain ring upfront? I'm going to struggle with 39/26 round here. Failing that it will be new chainset time, can I run a compact without taking links out of the chain / changing rear mech?
Great looking ride! I'm not sure about a smaller small chain ring but you could either go with a compact crank or try a 28t cassette. I'm running a 28t in the rear and can get over all the climbs that I ride without a problem. Soon I will be riding some organized rides with about 11,500ft and 13,000ft of climbing. For those rides I will use a Rival long cage derailleur and something like a 32t cassette. I'll have a separate chain for that set up, obviously. You may need to loose a link or two on the chain but that is much easier to do then needing to add
My SLR01 is now finished. The weight is a hair over 15lbs. Mainly due to heavy Dura Ace skewers which are quite porky. I'll stick with them as I tried some of the other lightweight offerings and was never really happy. They creaked and didn't seem to hold up well over time. My ocd also causes me to possibly over tighten the skewers and the DA ones fix that as they slightly release pressure as you close them. I could drop more wight with SRAM Red but at this point it's not worth it. I also went back to my 3T 110mm stem and Ergosum bar. Although the PRO Stealth EVO stem and bar combo felt stiffer I much prefer the feel and fit with the Ergosum bar, especially in the drops. If I had the drops of the 3T bar on the carbon EVO, it would be a keeper. Not a fan of ergo bends. The ride and handling is superb. Great on climbs and even better on descends. I've been riding my CAAD8 over the past week and although it handles awesome and is a plenty stiff bike for climbing/sprints its not something I will choose for longer rides. SLR01 feels like it's on suspension Here is the final set-up photo I snapped with the phone. Hope to have some time soon to take some decent photos.
My SLR01 is now finished. The weight is a hair over 15lbs. Mainly due to heavy Dura Ace skewers which are quite porky. I'll stick with them as I tried some of the other lightweight offerings and was never really happy. They creaked and didn't seem to hold up well over time. My ocd also causes me to possibly over tighten the skewers and the DA ones fix that as they slightly release pressure as you close them. I could drop more wight with SRAM Red but at this point it's not worth it. I also went back to my 3T 110mm stem and Ergosum bar. Although the PRO Stealth EVO stem and bar combo felt stiffer I much prefer the feel and fit with the Ergosum bar, especially in the drops. If I had the drops of the 3T bar on the carbon EVO, it would be a keeper. Not a fan of ergo bends. The ride and handling is superb. Great on climbs and even better on descends. I've been riding my CAAD8 over the past week and although it handles awesome and is a plenty stiff bike for climbing/sprints its not something I will choose for longer rides. SLR01 feels like it's on suspension Here is the final set-up photo I snapped with the phone. Hope to have some time soon to take some decent photos.
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:53 am
Did you buy this off Bikeradar?
you got a cracking deal if you did, great looking bike, rather jealous
Enjoy
you got a cracking deal if you did, great looking bike, rather jealous
Enjoy
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com