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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 4:30 am 
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Posts: 391
Thanks Danw, Unfortunately I'm sort of a slacker weenie...got the bike already built and replace some parts. I posted what I thought was interesting to know about the weight saving process...never fully disassembled for the scale's joy.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:30 am 
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Location: Amber land
andreszucs wrote:
You are 100% correct painless, I like that you pay attention to details. Since I got this bike about 3 weeks ago, The old owner warned me about the suspension, I new I'll need to rebuild. I have been gathering information on how I can do it myself, fortunately I reach out to a service center and they provided to me all the information I need like service guide, list of parts and architecture of this forks....now I'm ready to start including having the leg wipers and foam seals in the mail.

Pedal its not a priority but its in my list. Ritchey V5 might be a good option 255g, have you ever tried? is it easy/safe to remove foot?

and check the bushings condition before and after the service. It's very simple, just put your finger between arch and upper, squeeze front brake and try to move forwards and backwards. If you feel noticeable play, than you have a problem. But hope it will be OK.

I didn't try them because I'm using Shimano XT pedals for 4 seasons with now troubles. But I have few friends, who have been using them for one season (they were put into the market in 2012). They said that the cleat mechanism isn't so tight as Shimano's SPD, but still strong and no need to tight it to the end with screw adjuster, so it's not a disadvantage for them. They have very good performance and endurance in comparison with older V4 Logic versions, which are a disaster with their short live, because outer bearing had very poor sealing. My friend thinks to service them, relube bearing, but after I checked them and they had no play, we decided not to put our fingers to them :)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 3:26 am 
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painless wrote:
andreszucs wrote:
You are 100% correct painless, I like that you pay attention to details. Since I got this bike about 3 weeks ago, The old owner warned me about the suspension, I new I'll need to rebuild. I have been gathering information on how I can do it myself, fortunately I reach out to a service center and they provided to me all the information I need like service guide, list of parts and architecture of this forks....now I'm ready to start including having the leg wipers and foam seals in the mail.

Pedal its not a priority but its in my list. Ritchey V5 might be a good option 255g, have you ever tried? is it easy/safe to remove foot?

and check the bushings condition before and after the service. It's very simple, just put your finger between arch and upper, squeeze front brake and try to move forwards and backwards. If you feel noticeable play, than you have a problem. But hope it will be OK.

I didn't try them because I'm using Shimano XT pedals for 4 seasons with now troubles. But I have few friends, who have been using them for one season (they were put into the market in 2012). They said that the cleat mechanism isn't so tight as Shimano's SPD, but still strong and no need to tight it to the end with screw adjuster, so it's not a disadvantage for them. They have very good performance and endurance in comparison with older V4 Logic versions, which are a disaster with their short live, because outer bearing had very poor sealing. My friend thinks to service them, relube bearing, but after I checked them and they had no play, we decided not to put our fingers to them :)


Not sure what would be a noticeable play. according to my research I know is expected some play from DT swiss forks, I did the test and its does have some...but I don't believe is that bad.
What King of oil did you used? I was instructed to use a general purpose seal friendly 15wt fork lube oil, or Rock Shox red rum, Fox fluid, etc...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 9:18 am 
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Location: Amber land
I'm a Fox fan and have open bath fork, I use 5W motorex fork oil for damping in the right leg, 15W for lube in the left leg. 5W gives me very sensitive and plush fork. Keep in mind, that DT swiss is semi-bath fork, so the damping oil is isolated in the right leg and there is another lube oil for the bushings in lowers.
I don't buy Float fluid and use mechanical gearbox 80W oil from my garage which has the same lube, viscosity and smell characteristics :) It's friendly to nitrile (NBR) seals and checked in other forums for the usage.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:15 am
Posts: 391
painless wrote:
I'm a Fox fan and have open bath fork, I use 5W motorex fork oil for damping in the right leg, 15W for lube in the left leg. 5W gives me very sensitive and plush fork. Keep in mind, that DT swiss is semi-bath fork, so the damping oil is isolated in the right leg and there is another lube oil for the bushings in lowers.
I don't buy Float fluid and use mechanical gearbox 80W oil from my garage which has the same lube, viscosity and smell characteristics :) It's friendly to nitrile (NBR) seals and checked in other forums for the usage.



Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:15 am
Posts: 391
Now is getting interesting.
-Lefty XLR 90mm converted to 120mm 26'.
-ZTR crest wheelset 26' with FF.
- Scrub's rotors.

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