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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:18 am 
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Colonia wrote:
nathanong87 wrote:
Colonia wrote:
With an angled stem, the hoods are usually set to match the stem angle


nope.

Rather than get technical with someone who seems to have no interest, I'll just leave you with this:
Campy:

http://www.colnago.com/m10s/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Or Shimano levers, if you prefer:

http://www.cannondale.com/deu/2013/bike ... oad/caad10" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"


This means nothing, how a bike looks in a photo for the manufacturers website has nothing to do with bike fit. Lever angle should be set to what produces a comfortable wrist angle.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 11:02 am 
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euan wrote:
Colonia wrote:
nathanong87 wrote:
Colonia wrote:
With an angled stem, the hoods are usually set to match the stem angle


nope.

Rather than get technical with someone who seems to have no interest, I'll just leave you with this:
Campy:

http://www.colnago.com/m10s/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Or Shimano levers, if you prefer:

http://www.cannondale.com/deu/2013/bike ... oad/caad10" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"


This means nothing, how a bike looks in a photo for the manufacturers website has nothing to do with bike fit. Lever angle should be set to what produces a comfortable wrist angle.


Well, it was in response to a guy claiming that modern lever tops should be "level with the ground". Which, on an angled stem is not true.

I agree with you in part -- comfort and wrist angle are key, but their are still base rules about lever position, traditionally speaking. The lever tops should ideally follow stem angle, an additional "rule" is that for old-school bars, the lever tip should be about level with the bottom of the bar. On compacts, that goes out the window, however.

Also, the way a bike is pictured in a catalog usually follows conventional norms of bike setup, so they do relate directly to how a bike should look when set up correctly.


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Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 11:02 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 11:24 am 
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Get out of this guy's build thread and take it somewhere else.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 12:56 pm 
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573 wrote:
Get out of this guy's build thread and take it somewhere else.

The conversation stemmed directly from his build. Sorry we aren't discussing what you feel we should be discussing on a public message board. :roll:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:31 pm 
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I did mention that I lowered the bars only to suffer pins and needles in fingers after 15miles each time I tried.

Not to worry people often have difference of opinions. :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 12:42 pm 
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TrekUk wrote:
I did mention that I lowered the bars only to suffer pins and needles in fingers after 15miles each time I tried.

Not to worry people often have difference of opinions. :thumbup:

People are entitled to opinions. But it is a fact that your bar setup is fine :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:01 pm 
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Here is the current bike weight now with the DA9000 Crankset fitted and some titanium skewer which I will update with shortly.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 8:15 am 
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The WW side of me is clearly coming out, some of these arrived yesterday :) ....

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 2:40 pm 
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First off here are the new titanium skewers 43g a set! look the part to...

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Finally running full DA9000 transmission, only upgrade left is the DA9010 "AERO" Brakeset which will come next month and I believe saves 30g per caliper.

Still considering R-sys wheelset.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 2:49 pm 
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As it stands, Apologise for the radiator in the shot lol...

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:17 pm 
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You take the worst photos. Do you not know how to stand a bike up straight and take proper height picture? As much time as you waste on this website one would think you would have figured that out by now.

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The New: BH http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=117760
The Old: Trek http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110051


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:59 pm 
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Just like my saddle height and stem placement, Ill take the photos how I want to take them.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:17 pm 
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I mentioned nothing about the saddle/stem as I know everyone's fit is different. I don't even have a slammed stem. However, the angle of the full bike pics makes me dizzy looking at it.

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"Ride till I die, well not really I'm too young to die"

The New: BH http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=117760
The Old: Trek http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110051


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Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:17 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:54 am 
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I do agree. As much work as has been put into this build, it deserves some decent photos. I don't think I've ever seen a photo of this bike outside except for the radiator shots. Do you ever ride it? Also, can't really tell if the chain is on the smallest cog, but if so, your chain looks a few links too short. The RD may not like this once in 53/25.

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