Colnago C59 54s GDSL now finished

[kgt]

+1

[TuplaO]

Although I never drunk the Colnago, Deda, Campagnolo etc. koolaid (I have, however, sampled the Veloflex tanwall one), I must admit, eurperg's C59 is definitely one of the nicest looking bikes I've seen. Ever.

[eurperg]

@ Calnago, I have some scratches in the paint under the fork crown that may have been caused by debris that has been stuck to Arenbergs or Continental GP4000s 25mm ( I think they are even a little bit bigger), but I don't really consider that an issue at all. I noticed the scratches when changing wheels, nothing during gravel road rides. More equal tire clearance front and rear would make the C59 a better bike though. C60 maybe?

@ SalsaLover My bulky ass need a bulky saddle, but I have had plans to try out the new Flite, it's also wide and hopefully better compatible with the seatpost. I'm having problems getting the Regale to stay level, because it's hard to tighten the front screw of the seatpost enough. There's just the finger screw... When the rear screw is tightened to 8Nm, the nose will point up sooner or later. The carbonFX rails are too tall for the seat post or something...

@ PSM rarely in Sweden, but hopefully Vätternrundan some year soon, if I'm ever quick enough to get the tickets before it is sold out...

@ TuplaO Thanks!

[SalsaLover]

@ SalsaLover My bulky ass need a bulky saddle, but I have had plans to try out the new Flite, it's also wide and hopefully better compatible with the seatpost. I'm having problems getting the Regale to stay level, because it's hard to tighten the front screw of the seatpost enough. There's just the finger screw... When the rear screw is tightened to 8Nm, the nose will point up sooner or later. The carbonFX rails are too tall for the seat post or something...

Definitely the new flite 2013 is wide and comfortable and indeed looks more slender.

The secret about the seatpost is to first tighten the front bolt with the rear loose and then apply the high torque on the rear bolt, if it's not level enough repeat the process until it's good

[Calnago]

Thanks @Eurperg... yeah, if you ride your bike the paint under the fork crown will get scratched... that's just how it is.. and I'm not worried about that. I was curious as whether it was really annoying going over crud like tree needles, sand and a bit of gravel here and there. So far I've not had any issues at all. The only thing I'd probably consciously avoid is fresh chip seal... which is nasty on any bike, but on one with little clearance it can actually jam a sharp rock (like the cut crushed pieces they use for chip seal) in there and either leave a nasty gouge (much bigger than a superficial scratch, or puncture your tire.

Oh, and regarding your seatpost issue... you should be able to get your saddle to stay put indefinitely with that seatpost, with one caveat. The rails on that particular saddle are quite tall if I remember correctly, but I don't think that should make a difference. I believe the clamp will still "seat" properly if you try this: Keep in mind that it's a bit of trial and error till you get it right, but when you do, it will stay put. For the contact points of the clamp on the saddle rails, use carbon paste. But for the contact point of the bottom of the pivoting cradle where it slides around on the top of the seat post, try a thin layer of grease (carbon paste works too, but it will pivot easier with grease while you are "setting" it). This cradle needs to be able to pivot on this type of post design while you are tightening the rear bolt. Ok, here's where I think the little "trick" comes into play. You'll have an idea by now what it takes to tighten the rear bolt from your prior experience, and you also know by now that it's a guess as to where to start with the front burl nut. That nut will position the saddle initially and hopefully by the time you finish torqueing the rear bolt it will all be in exactly the position you want it to be, and will stay there. I'm sure you're aware that it has to be tilted a bit more downward at first than where you want it to be by the time it's tightened. So, pick a torque (you say you've used 8Nm, that's a lot... I'd try 5Nm max for now). Ok... now, here's the important part... as you are tightening the rear bolt, stop a couple of times before full torque and give the rear part of your saddle a good whack with your hand... I mean a hard whack. You will hear a cracking sound. That, is not your saddle breaking, rather it is the sound of the cradle slipping forward on the pivoting part (does that make sense). It is really the same principle as stress relieving the spokes in a wheel as you are building it. The pivoting part will reseat a bit. Keep doing that until you've reached your desired torque and there is no more "cracking" sounds when you bang on the rear of the saddle. It should stay put now. If you don't do the "cracking, whacking" part, that will happen as you ride it, and possibly loosen up. It's exactly why wheels that haven't been properly stress relieved during building might loosen up and need retruing. Try it... I'll bet it holds much better than it has been for you.

[eurperg]

I actually tightened the front burl nut with pliers while the rear bolt was loose, and the saddle nose was about 1 inch down at this point. But when I tighten the rear bolt, it always goes back up... And if I don't tighten the rear bolt enough, the saddle creaks and rolls like a rocking chair. (8Nm is what it reads on the back of the seatpost). But I guess I have to try one more time with some grease...

[Calnago]

8Nm should not be required. That is a whole lot of torque. Try taking the whole thing off and just turning the burled nut with your fingers all the way down a few times etc. to make sure it moves freely. I know it's hard to turn with your fingers while mounted (next to impossible), and the trial and error part comes into play by positioning the saddle tilt down enough so that when it comes back up with tightening that it's in the right place when you're done. The fact that in the past it "creaks" and starts rocking, sounds like you didn't "stress relieve" it as I was describing above. Would that be correct. Like I said, after you think everything is tight, really give the saddle some good whacks, like as hard as you can. If you hear it "crack", that's good, because it is seating properly.

Remember, the front nut on the seat post only determines what angle the saddle will ultimately be when you finish tightening the rear bolt. Don't try to tighten them both evenly at the same time... it can't be done. Allowing the cradle to pivot will seat everything so that even force is being applied on the rails at both ends. Otherwise, too much force will be on the back versus the front, and when you hit your first bump while seated, it will crack, loosen up, pivot and start coming loose. Get it seated before you ride it. Shouldn't move after that. Haven't had to adjust mine once and I've hit some big craters. That applies both to my Colnago posts and the 3T Dorico LTD on my C59.

[eurperg]

Just bought a set Bora Ultra Twos. Looks very busy and über-euro . I think I need to replace the original labels with Dark label version and change the Conti Comps to 25mm Veloflex. Not sure if tanwall or black...

[emorydptt]

Fantastic build. Very similar to mine. I'm running a Deda NeroZero 120mm stem and powertap 404s. However, you're studio shots make it look severely better.

[Quinn039]

tanwalls looked great with the shallow rims... I figure they should look good on those boras with the darklabels.


amazing bike in general too!

[CaptainP]

Dark labels and gumwall Veloflex - GO!

[eurperg]

^ Gumwall Veloflexes are already glued - Dark label stickers on order...

[majklnajt]

Great!!!!

[LionelB]

is that a campy p2max in there ? Are you happy with it ?

[eurperg]

Not Campy, but the B.O.R. R688 version. Nothing to complain so far, B.O.R. cranks look nice and Power2Max works just as advertised. Front shifting did not go worse, chainline is just the same.