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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 10:00 pm 
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Location: Mårslet, Denmark
typo

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My CAAD10:http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109014


Last edited by Anders on Thu May 16, 2013 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:12 am 
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You're a brave man!


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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:12 am 


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 11:12 pm 
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All parts for the installation bought on ebay. To my luck the kit included the internal junction box and cables but with the external battery mount. Cable lengths were also strange as I got two 950mm, one 650mm, one 300mm and two 250mm. But it turned out to be great as one of the 950mm cable can be used also when I chnge to the internal battery.
Image

Made some nice progres today on the installation. I can't complete it as I'm waiting for a set of Alligator I-link brake cables.

The holes for the grommets must be 6mm for them to fit properly.

As the plastic strips are rather stiff you need a stiff wire to guide it down the down tube. Then you just stuff it down helping the strips entering the hole.
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The end of the cable will seek to the outside of the tube. Try rotating the guide wire to get it close to the hole. When close enough borrow your wifes thing here to pull it out. I don't know the name for it in english :)
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In the headtube the cable is fixated in both end with hot glue.
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My solution to routing the FD cable. I find it much cleaner looking than routing it on the front of the tube.
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As I will initially use the external battery and are routing the RD cable externally both of these cable needs to go into the BB. I have chosen to use the hole for the FD guide, but you need to drill it up to 7mm for the cables to get in there. You need to push a bit as it's tight. The battery cable is 950mm so it's the right length for the internal battery.
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The hole from the BB to the down tube is very close to letting the junction box through. A bit of chamfering on the edges did the trick.
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When you get all the cables routed and connected to the junctions box it's a tight fit to get it in. Yo need to remove one bearing and insert the junction box from that side or you wont be able to rotate it into place. The cable connected besides the down tube cable in the junction box needs to pass the junction box when you push it through the hole so be sure you don't pinch it.
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Trim the length of the cable and stuff the excess into the tubes. Then use hot melting glue to seat the cables so that it doesn't interfere with the axel when inserted.
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Here is how the FD cable routing looks like. Much cleaner than the original routing.
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The top tube cable routing.
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The result so far missing brake cables and bar tape. The Ultegra grey blends nicely in with the frame graphics making the large component seem smaller.
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Last edited by Anders on Fri May 17, 2013 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 12:03 am 
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Location: LA/OC, California
:shock:

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 12:28 am 
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Simply amazing! What a great walk through, Anders. Thank you! You are right, your way looks so much better than the factory routing that I've seen. That bike is going to be absolutely killer. Did you take any photos of the inside of the headtube? I'm curious about the routing inside there.

Edit: What are the "plastic strips" on the down tube wire for? I thought they were zip ties for external installations. Also, I'm curious why you decided against internally routing the rear derailleur wire.


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 5:04 am 
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Thanks. I know it's a bit risky but if the frame fails I have an excuse for buying a Super Six Evo :-) I forgot that picture. Wiil include it later today. The plastic strips pushes the cable up against the the inside of the tube preventing it to rattle. Regarding the RD cable I think it is a bit to risky to drill in this small tube. I have ordered the set of covers and will use that to fixate the cable on the underside.

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My CAAD10:http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109014


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:17 am 
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Get those Hollogram arms anodised black :-)

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The Weenie formally known as CAADHEAD


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 9:57 am 
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Please stop teasing me with it. I'm just draging time until an offer on a set of SL's comes by that is too hard to pass on.
The compact FSA chain rings are only installed for a trip to Harz next week. The Praxis will be installed again afterwards.

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 11:30 am 
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Quote:
The end of the cable will seek to the outside of the tube. Try rotating the guide wire to get it close to the hole. When close enough borrow your wifes thing here to pull it out. I don't know the name for it in english :)

Tweezers


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 7:52 pm 
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Ltoddokc, I updated the walk through with some more pictures showing also the headtube cable routing. You just hold the cable in place until the glue has cooled down a bit and then it stays in place. It takes 15 seconds if you blow on it with your mouth.

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 9:10 pm 
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Location: Porto, Portugal
Looks so great right now.

you have done a great job.

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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Did the bar tape and brake cables today. The I-link installation will wait.

Image

The tape on the chain stay will be replaced by the Shimano strips.
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My CAAD10:http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109014


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 1:28 pm 
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very nice write up! thanks for sharing anders


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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 4:40 pm 
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Wonderful job man.

Congrats! Really nice the internal cables.

It looks like a racing machine.

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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:54 pm 
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Looks fantastic, Anders. Thank you again for the great walk through.

Have you had any issues since the install or made any changes?


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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:54 pm 


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