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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:11 am
Posts: 234
Location: Beirut, LEBANON
Beautiful bike! But how does it ride??

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Posted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 2:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:20 pm
Posts: 486
Location: Tokyo
Here's my brief take on this frameset/fork.
Definitely a race only bike, if you're looking for something comfy, look elsewhere.
Great handling especially on smaller sizes.

Cheers


Last edited by maverick_1 on Mon Jan 11, 2016 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:39 pm
Posts: 47
Location: Norway
Love this!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2011 3:58 pm
Posts: 42
A fellow cyclist up here has a Cipollini and I'm always admiring the way the chainstays and bottom bracket are one part - just looks perfect for getting all the power where its needed without wasting a drop!


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 Post subject: Campy Over Torque
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:20 pm
Posts: 486
Location: Tokyo
Finally gotten a true BB30 crankset with Campy's BB30 USB bearings for the RB1k.
And till this day, the RB1k remains my favorite bike :lol:

Image

PS: Note actual weight of the crankset system inclusive of bearings is 630 grams, measured based on 170mm 53/39 config.
SR Ti spindle crankset in a similar configuration with the BB30 adapter cups weighs in at 660 grams.

There's been numerous upgrades along the way, some which has been posted in Cipo's gallery.
Drive train: Campy SR mechanical to Campy EPS V2 in March 2014
Stem: Extralite to Ritchey Superlogic C260
Saddle: SLR Tekno to SLR Carbonio Flow
Brakes: AX Orion to Campy SR DP

Total weight is now a porky 6940 grams, measured with LW Std 3 tubulars.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 4698
Location: Athens, Greece
:thumbup:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:16 pm
Posts: 515
Location: Irvine, CA
Beautiful paint job and build!!!


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 Post subject: Re: Campy Over Torque
PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:58 am 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 10:32 am
Posts: 729
Location: Finland
maverick_1 wrote:
Finally gotten a true BB30 crankset with Campy's BB30 USB bearings for the RB1k.


You don't see that crank very often... I wonder will it ever be updated to 2015-style version?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:45 am 
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Location: Tokyo
Yup, the cranks are a pretty rare, requires specific tools (again) for installation and removal which is a pain. Nonetheless it's Campy's lightest and supposedly stiffest crankset yet (from data points).
I did the upgrade as there seems to be a random creak while using the Campy BB30 to UT adapters. Hopefully the Over Torque BB30 system solves this issue.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 5:23 pm 
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Yes, I've yet to see one of these cranks for real. But I still don't really get it. I understand why you want it, to hopefully eliminate an annoying BB30 creak. Trouble is, the BB30 creaks typically originate in the interface between the frame shell and the outer bearing surface. So if you're still getting a creak after install your best bet would be to remove everything and use loctite 609 retaining compound (and primer) between the outer bearing surface and the BB shell. But be very careful not to get any in the bearings themselves, which is a bit difficult as you press them in. And use a proper press to install them to help ensure they are aligned and leave it overnight for the loctite to set. Of course, this exact same advice applies to the cups that convert BB30 to Ultratorque, or whatever non bb30 crank you use, so it comes down to the only reason to go with this crank is to save a very few grams. But then you're stuck with only being able to use it on bikes with shells that can accommodate a 30mm crank spindle. And I can see where bearing replacement would be made more difficult using loctite retaining compound because of the retaining clips in the BB30 shell, making it difficult to just "punch" them out with a proper tool, which is how you remove PF30 cups which do not have a circlip in the BBshell getting in the way. So I hate to say it, but I think the best solution here would have been to go with the conversion cups, properly installed with retaining compound and perfectly aligned, and use one of the new 4 arm cranks. And the new 4 arm cranks allow easy swapping of any combination of rings, meaning you don't need completely separate cranksets for compact or standard.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:20 pm
Posts: 486
Location: Tokyo
@Calnago,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the issues pertaining to BB30 creaks.
Apart from those points mentioned, I think there there are variables in the BB width for each frame (including the RB1k here), which I believe is actually causing the creaks. As per my understanding, UT system uses the wave washer to compensate for minor variation in the BB width (please correct me if I'm wrong here). With the UT adapter cups pressed in and UT crankset installed with the wave washer on the NDS, there seems to be a hint of play coming from the BB if a certain amount of force is exerted onto the NDS crankarms. The Overtorque eliminates the need for a wave washer by utilizing a "play recovery system" locking mechanism, which eliminates possibility of an axial play.
I will need to put in more miles on the new system before I can share the end result with you guys though.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 6:50 pm 
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Yes, I do like the Overtorque design as far as how it works with the "play recovery system" etc. But it's still the interface between the bearings and the BB shell that is the typical cause of creaks. In the case of the adaptor cups I assume you were using before, when it was creaking, were the cups installed as I described in my previous post, or just pressed in with no retaining compound, or worse... just grease, which facilitates micromovements as opposed to eliminates them? And were the cups pressed in with proper bushings in the bearings from both sides to make sure they were aligned perfectly within the shell? I still think that properly installed, the right adaptor cups and the standard Ultratorque cranks could be creak free. But hopefully your current install will run creak free for a long time now.
And I still say threaded BB's rule the day, past present and future.

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