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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 6:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 58
I've had my P3 for 6 years and the gears were starting to wear out and jump, so I took the opportunity to upgrade it to a super clean internal Di2 setup as I've been so impressed with the system on my commuting bike.

I spent many hours planning the conversion, and found nothing on the internet that I really liked as most seemed to run the wires on the outside somewhere, or had an external battery which just looks horrible on a TT bike, or did an unacceptable amount of drilling. As such, I'd thought I'd share what I did for the benefits of others contemplating this modification.

Image

Frame: Cervelo P3C (2008, size 58)
Fork: 3T Funda
Bars: Vision aero (290mm extension, 90mm stem)
Stem: as above
Headset: Cane Creek
Bar Tape: None

Front Brake Lever: Vision 'Crab-claw'
Front Caliper: Campagnolo TT
Rear Brake Lever: Vision 'Crab-claw'
Rear Caliper: Campagnolo TT

Shifters: Shimano Di2 bar end
Cables: Shimano Di2
Front Mech: Shimano Ultegra Di2
Rear Mech: Shimano Ultegra Di2

Seat: Adamo race (steel)
Seat Post: Cervelo P3C
Seat Post Clamp: Cervelo P3C integrated

Cranks: Rotor 3D
Chainring(s): FSA aero (54 / 42T)
Chain: SRAM 10s
Cassette: Dura Ace 11-21
Pedals: Look Keo Classic
Bottom Bracket: Ultegra 6700

Front Wheel:
Rim: Xentis Mark 1 TT
Spokes: Xentis Mark 1 TT
Hub: Xentis Mark 1 TT
Tire: Vittoria Corsa Evo

Back Wheel:
Rim: Corima disc (with after market decals, I really hated the stock decals!)
Spokes: Corima disc
Hub: Corima disc
Tire: Vittoria Corsa Evo

Weight: Approx 10kg

I wanted a full internal installation, with minimal drilling and in the end only ended up having to enlarge the LH downtube cable stop and the hole that the front mech cable passes through. I assembled the wiring harness using 800mm wires for the mechs and batteries and 1400mm wires for the link to the front junction and the battery, then taped the ends to a length of brake cable and threaded it through the seat tube down through the hole in the BB shell. I then passed the cables inside the chainstay to the rear mech and up to the front mech, and out through and then back into the frame for the cable to the front junction through the enlarged hole in the frame. This operation required a lot of patience. The battery for the Di2 is fitted in the seatpost and secured with a bit of Celotex insulation foam that I cut to shape. I covered over the wires with sign makers plastic (colour coded as best I could to match) to clean up the aerodynamics.

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Di2 shifters fitted to bar extensions, cables run internally

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Di2 junction box taped under the stem, control cable runs in heatshrink alongside brake cable. Brake adjusters to allow for different width rims.

Image

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Unused cable stop taped over

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Di2 wire going out then back into to the frame

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Rear brake crosses over to standard entry hole try and keep the wire out of the way (can't remember what the rogue cable tie is for)

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Rear mech wire passes out of the hole in the rear of the frame, but is secured with a cable tie to stop it getting sheared by the chain

Image
Front mech wire passes through enlarged hole into BB shell.


Last edited by Deev on Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Posts: 614
Location: The Taint of the USA!
Very nicely done. Bravo!

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2012 SpeedConcept 7, Cobia


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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:27 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 6:25 pm
Posts: 1401
Very cool!

I've been pondering about doing something similar. My best idea so far was to run the cable along the TT and drill a hole into the seatpost.

Was there a specific reason you drilled out the cable stop on the left side?

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"Nothing compares to the simple pleasures of a bike ride," said John F. Kennedy, a man who had the pleasure of Marilyn Monroe.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 58
Thanks!

There were two specific reasons why I chose the left hand side:

1) The LH hole is for the front mech. I rarely use the front mech on this bike so if I ever chose to change back to mechanical then I could still use the original cable stop for the rear mech.

2) The LH hole gives a much smoother route for the Di2 cable to run from where it braches away from the brake cable.

I've seen numerous solutions, some that involve drilling the top tube. Looks pretty nasty to me - drilling CFRP with home tools just feels like a bad idea (I used a small round file to enlarge the front mech hole).


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 6:25 pm
Posts: 1401
What I meant was running the cable on top of the TT externaly and have it enter through the seatpost.

Definetly not as neat and clean as yours, but no drilling the frame at all.

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"Nothing compares to the simple pleasures of a bike ride," said John F. Kennedy, a man who had the pleasure of Marilyn Monroe.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 58
Errrr, that's what I thought you meant, but how are you going to get the cable into the seatpost? if I remember right there are no holes or gaps or anything big enough to let you pass a Di2 plug through.

Drilling / filing the metal downtube insert is easy, just do that!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm
Posts: 3445
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada
You really need some TriRig Omega brakes.

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AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:54 pm
Posts: 58
Yes, you're so right. Despite them being outrageously powerful, these Campy brakes look a mess.

An upgrade for next season I hope!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:23 pm 


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