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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:50 pm
Posts: 6
Location: SEATTLE
nice build! budgetweenie.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:31 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
btompkins0112 wrote:
Looks great! Very sensible build......the finish on 105 is very nice, it looks great with the frame!!

:thumbup:

Question though.....I thpough KinLin rims took the red veloplugs? I have some XR300's and I ordered red plugs, hope they fit when they come in!!!


hello!! thanks for the compliments, bike is not finished yet although it already drives pretty well, but I´m now in the process of sharpening those details that will make it perfect and completely fitted for me.

My kimlins are the XR200. I was told to use the red Veloplugs, I ordered them and they did not fit. I measured the rim holes with a digital micrometer and found out that the yellow ones would fit perfectly. I ordered the yellow ones and they worked perfectly. I don't know the hole diameter of the XR300 Kimlin rim, I suggest just to measure them properly and order the ones that would fit better according to Veloplug website specifications.

I´m concerned with the spoke lacing pattern I used for my rear wheel. Right now it's 3 crosses on both sides, and because the non-drive side spokes wing has a much smaller diameter than the one on the drive side, the spoke tension on the drive side is very very high, while the spoke tension on the non drive side is kind of weak, therefore the wheel stiffness is not good enough. I was wondering if I could improve this situation by switching the non-drive side to a radial spoke lacing pattern... Any tip on this issue would be highly appreciate it. I think I should have bought the rear hub that has spoke wings of the same diameter and more symmetric, but it's too late for that...

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Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 7:31 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:51 pm 
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Location: Bristol uk
Very nice build and superb pictures well done :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 6:34 pm
Posts: 189
Got a quick question, I'm new to the whole racing scene and as such don't know that much so are these frames fine to use in Crit Racing?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
Posts: 473
Liggero wrote:
btompkins0112 wrote:
Looks great! Very sensible build......the finish on 105 is very nice, it looks great with the frame!!

:thumbup:

Question though.....I thpough KinLin rims took the red veloplugs? I have some XR300's and I ordered red plugs, hope they fit when they come in!!!


hello!! thanks for the compliments, bike is not finished yet although it already drives pretty well, but I´m now in the process of sharpening those details that will make it perfect and completely fitted for me.

My kimlins are the XR200. I was told to use the red Veloplugs, I ordered them and they did not fit. I measured the rim holes with a digital micrometer and found out that the yellow ones would fit perfectly. I ordered the yellow ones and they worked perfectly. I don't know the hole diameter of the XR300 Kimlin rim, I suggest just to measure them properly and order the ones that would fit better according to Veloplug website specifications.

I´m concerned with the spoke lacing pattern I used for my rear wheel. Right now it's 3 crosses on both sides, and because the non-drive side spokes wing has a much smaller diameter than the one on the drive side, the spoke tension on the drive side is very very high, while the spoke tension on the non drive side is kind of weak, therefore the wheel stiffness is not good enough. I was wondering if I could improve this situation by switching the non-drive side to a radial spoke lacing pattern... Any tip on this issue would be highly appreciate it. I think I should have bought the rear hub that has spoke wings of the same diameter and more symmetric, but it's too late for that...



You could do radial lacing, but crossed lacing is typically stronger. I think you should go with a size smaller spokes on the non drive side.

Also nice weight for that kind of money!

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    2011 Cannondale Flash F1
      2010 Cannondale Caad9
        2000 Cannondale Caad 4 aero
          1999 Cannondale Caad1
            ???? Concorde SS


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:17 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
quattrings wrote:
Liggero wrote:
btompkins0112 wrote:
Looks great! Very sensible build......the finish on 105 is very nice, it looks great with the frame!!

:thumbup:

Question though.....I thpough KinLin rims took the red veloplugs? I have some XR300's and I ordered red plugs, hope they fit when they come in!!!


hello!! thanks for the compliments, bike is not finished yet although it already drives pretty well, but I´m now in the process of sharpening those details that will make it perfect and completely fitted for me.

My kimlins are the XR200. I was told to use the red Veloplugs, I ordered them and they did not fit. I measured the rim holes with a digital micrometer and found out that the yellow ones would fit perfectly. I ordered the yellow ones and they worked perfectly. I don't know the hole diameter of the XR300 Kimlin rim, I suggest just to measure them properly and order the ones that would fit better according to Veloplug website specifications.

I´m concerned with the spoke lacing pattern I used for my rear wheel. Right now it's 3 crosses on both sides, and because the non-drive side spokes wing has a much smaller diameter than the one on the drive side, the spoke tension on the drive side is very very high, while the spoke tension on the non drive side is kind of weak, therefore the wheel stiffness is not good enough. I was wondering if I could improve this situation by switching the non-drive side to a radial spoke lacing pattern... Any tip on this issue would be highly appreciate it. I think I should have bought the rear hub that has spoke wings of the same diameter and more symmetric, but it's too late for that...



You could do radial lacing, but crossed lacing is typically stronger. I think you should go with a size smaller spokes on the non drive side.

Also nice weight for that kind of money!


Hello. I know crossed lacing it's stronger, but the question is; is it also stiffer or just stronger and more resistant to breaking but less stiff? Non-drive size can't be smaller, it's already perfectly calculated with spocalc excel sheet.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 2:10 am
Posts: 36
Nice, practical build. From a pure performance per dollar perspective, Chinese open molds are the way to go these days, IMO. I have a matte Miracle Trade MC053 (less than $600 shipped) and I love it. The FM015 has become a bit of a "classic", I see lots of people racing them at local crits and the like.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 7:27 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
hiro11 wrote:
Nice, practical build. From a pure performance per dollar perspective, Chinese open molds are the way to go these days, IMO. I have a matte Miracle Trade MC053 (less than $600 shipped) and I love it. The FM015 has become a bit of a "classic", I see lots of people racing them at local crits and the like.


Indeed, a bit too classic already. I like more the FM028, or the very new FM066;
http://www.velobuild.com/component/kune ... 6?Itemid=0
Very light. With two options of weight with the same mold. Similar to cervelo R. The one you posted is a clone of the scott foil. I dislike the clones, FM015 at least is original, not a clone.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 12:32 pm
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Location: UK & WEST AFRICA
thx for sharing. nice looking bike at a great price for that weight. well done. The only thing wrong: post your pics on the large chainring and small sprocket.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:24 pm 
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KB wrote:
thx for sharing. nice looking bike at a great price for that weight. well done. The only thing wrong: post your pics on the large chainring and small sprocket.


Thanks a lot for the tip, but it's not wrong, I always take the images in lower ring and highest cog, that way you can see the profile of the big ring and it looks like a bike with lot of acceleration, rather than higher speed. What is very wrong is the focusing, the bike appears blurry and lightning is also wrong, too much contrast, too black blacks. I will improve it for the updated photos.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:20 am
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Nice build! In fact, I am also planning to build the same wheels with the same hubs. Do you mind sharing your spoke lengths?

On the other hand, the weights on front derailleur and crankset photos seem do not tally with the weights on your spreadsheet.

Front derailleur - 113 (on photo) vs 84 (on spreadsheet)
Crankset - 712 (on photo) vs crankarms+ring large+ring small = 608 (total on spreadsheet)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:34 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
blacksilver wrote:
Nice build! In fact, I am also planning to build the same wheels with the same hubs. Do you mind sharing your spoke lengths?

On the other hand, the weights on front derailleur and crankset photos seem do not tally with the weights on your spreadsheet.

Front derailleur - 113 (on photo) vs 84 (on spreadsheet)
Crankset - 712 (on photo) vs crankarms+ring large+ring small = 608 (total on spreadsheet)


Thank you for revieweing the excel sheet. In fact you are right on the crank arms, I decompused the weight wrong, I will correct it now. Total weight now with the new ti bolts should be 708 total, so cranks are 100g heavier that what I wrote. Total weight though is correct, as it's checked with the scale. Front derailleur on the contrary is perfect on the sheet, because in the pic includes the clamp and anti-Schleck device. Also pic is with the old alu clamp, new clamp is carbon fiber.

Thank you and best regards.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:38 pm 
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Location: Netherlands
blacksilver wrote:
Nice build! In fact, I am also planning to build the same wheels with the same hubs. Do you mind sharing your spoke lengths?

On the other hand, the weights on front derailleur and crankset photos seem do not tally with the weights on your spreadsheet.

Front derailleur - 113 (on photo) vs 84 (on spreadsheet)
Crankset - 712 (on photo) vs crankarms+ring large+ring small = 608 (total on spreadsheet)


don't get the same hubs, get a better ones. i recommend the rear one which has symmetric wings and same size of wings in both sizes. and for the front, the one with more separated wings. both in the same shop i bought mine though:

http://www.bikehubstore.com/SuperLight- ... slf78w.htm
http://www.bikehubstore.com/Rotaz-Chin- ... taz220.htm

For calculating spoke lenght, google for SPOCALC. It's an excel sheet with instructions inside.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 11:49 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Netherlands
Updated photos from today. No more updates until next year.

New headset 20mm top cap. Looks pretty slick, following the frame curvature. Nice!!
Image

Climax seatpost from ebay. Awesome weight at awesome price. I can cut it and save 20g but I´m still thinking about it, I'd better leave it as it is so I could use it in another frame in the future. I still have to cut one of the bolts, I only cutted one of them as you can see.

Carbon cages, carbon FD clamp and Token black BB cups.

Speeplay Zero's with J&L titanium spindles from ebay. These spindles are awesome, really sharp CNC. Too sharp actually.


So no more updates until next year. I will present my MTB in another thread soon. Cheers!!! :D

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Last edited by Liggero on Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 7:26 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 7:28 pm
Posts: 585
Liggero wrote:
Thanks a lot for the tip, but it's not wrong, I always take the images in lower ring and highest cog

sorry dude, there's no room for argument here. Always big ring. It's in the rules.
http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#26"


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