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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 5:14 pm
Posts: 7
Thanks, I actually dove in and have most of the upgrade completed. I'm waiting for my shifters to arrive (mech shifters were sent to me in a Di2 box!). Drilled out chainstay without issue - it DID require some courage however!

Rather than routing wires through the BB plug, I opened up the existing hole intended for the FD cable - using a diamond bit in my Dremel tool. Worked fabulously - no chipping, lifting or tearing of the carbon. I created a slightly lobed shape (rather than round) so that a connector could pass thru alongside a piece of wire. I ran both the battery and FD wires thru and secured them with zip ties above and below the chain-spotter. A dab of black silicone sealant, and it was near-perfect.

I used wires inn the following lengths: 1000, 600, 300x2. The 1000mm is a bit long for the DT but its easy to stuff excess onto the tube. The others were spot-on for the routing I used.


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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:59 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:06 pm 
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Now I'm just waiting on my replacement shifters and debating on whether I should order the new four-arm 6800 Ultegra crankset or just keep the 105 unit the bike came with...


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 199
Nice :) Throw a few pics if you can.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:59 pm 
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I'm not sure of the correct image-posting procedure for this forum, so here are links to a few pics. The wire routing worked fabulously, the silicone isn't as tidy as I would have liked, but it works just fine. Even with crankset out of the way, it's a difficult area to work in.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b590wh5vzikwd ... .35.05.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4m7hcoja28jvn ... .35.27.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m33l9qlged46n ... .35.43.jpg


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 199
You can also zip tie the wires to the Chain Catcher.
Also, I don't use zip tie on the battery mount. I just put a piece of handlebar tape under the lowest part of the battery mount. It doesn't rattle.

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Scott Foil Di2 2012
Scott Scale 35 2010


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:43 pm 
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I'm going to change the unsightly black zip-tie for a white one. I didn't have one long enough to reach around the DT. HB tape is a good idea too though... I did put a little back-bend on the battery mount so it made fairly good contact with the DT even before the zip tie.

At any rate, the install went quite nicely (thanks to the write-up and pics found in this thread!) and the Di2 system works GREAT! I'm sold on the technology.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:51 pm 
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Pitched all "visible" zip ties in favor of a single tie around the chain spotter. Much cleaner.

Haven't noticed any rattling from batt mount. If I do ill stuff a bit of bar wrap in.


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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 9:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 199
At some point, I thought I'd try 10mm shorter stem. I had one from Scott lying around, so I put it on and the handlebar is much more "reachable". With that I also noticed that the Ritchey C260 aluminium stem is quite flexy. Now I need something more stiffer. I'm wondering wheter the Ritchey's carbon stems are worth their price.

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Scott Foil Di2 2012
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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 10:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:06 am
Posts: 115
The C260 superlogic seems to be pretty stiff but the price is also high...

Do you really feel it's flexing? I might be look for a zipp combi or swap to 3t.

What is your opinion about the rotor rings?


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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 7:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 1:35 pm
Posts: 1633
Location: Geneva
Nice ride! How's the stiffness vs comfort?

If you need ceramic bb86 cups, let me know as I got some but then have put my rotor 3d+ on a bb30 frame in the end.


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:20 pm
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I can definitively feel the extra stiffness when sprinting out of saddle. Probably will try the C260 superlogic at some point, but not at the moment. I will have to turn my attention to my Scale mtb, which needs some TLC after those sram parts are failing.
I like the q-rings, but I would say this is a personal matter. I can put out more power using a lower gear vs switching to a higher gear and doing more rpm-s. So they help to hold the lower gear and thus speed. If you're someone whose riding a high cadence, I would say they have little effect.

The Foil frame feels stiff when have 7+ bar in the rear tire and riding on roads that have been surface dressed with chips around 10-14mm. It is quite common here to extend the road surface life in here, because it also gives more grip in snowy conditions. You don't see this type of maintenance in central or southern europe.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:45 pm 
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Still continuing on with the Scott Foil Di2 thread, I thought that it may be of interest to some in the conversion I recently carried out on my Scott Foil 20 carbon bike from mechanical to a part internally routed Ultegra Di2 system. It must be noted that this system is different from the older generation Dura Ace 7970 which has different cable/connector sizes and also does not have E Tube compatibility so cannot therefore be diagnosed with Shimano software.
A few cautionary words before I continue. It must be understood that the procedure I have carried out has been carried out at my own risk, as the safety of the frame has now been ‘theoretically’ compromised and is NOT recommended by myself and certainly not Scott, as it will also invalidate your frame Warranty. In my particular case, I am the second owner and therefore no Warranty exists anyway, so nothing lost there.
I took a long time to pluck up the courage to carry out the work after reading volumes of advice and conflicting comments from numerous people, companies, forums, blogs, etc, etc, on the subject of drilling into a carbon framed bike. I have read of quite a few successful stories of carbon bikes being drilled for internal cable routing, but none to date, ever, of anyone suffering from frame failure after just one small hole had been very carefully drilled into a carbon frame at a strategically placed point, unless someone else comes up with something I am unaware of.
It seemed especially interesting that the next level up Scott Foil Di2 specific frame has a hole drilled for the battery cable to which I have copied exactly and does not appear to have any additional reinforcement in the carbon weave.
That all said, it is at my risk and I stand by the actions I have done, although I know as night follows day I will get the backlash from some. But here goes anyway!!!....................

Image

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Figure 1: First on the menu was to change both shifters from mechanical. Note the loop in the cable. This was to ensure that the connector remains in its place if the cable is pulled inadvertently.

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Figure 2: A shot of the 2 cables fitted and taped. In my case, the best position for the EW67A junction was to hang from the handlebar from a tie wrap and not tied to any brake cables.

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Figure 3: The 3mm hole for the previous front derailleur steel cable had to be opened up marginally with a file to 6mm to accept passage of the Di2 cable connector from the new derailleur to the Junction SM-JC40. For info, the cable is only 2.5mm dia but the connector is approx 6mm.

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Figure 4: A 6mm x 3mm rubber grommet (RS Part No.6663593), was split with a Stanley knife and inserted around the Di2 cable into the frame hole protecting the cable from chaffing and also providing weatherproofing to the frame interior. A small dab of silicone grease eased the entry as it was a bit fiddly!

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Figure 5: A 6mm hole was drilled to accept passage of the Di2 cable from the external battery to the Junction SM-JC40. Masking tape was used to mark the hole and I used progressively bigger drill sizes starting at 1mm up to 3mm and then a round file to take it up to 6mm so as not to cause any potential stress cracks to the carbon fibre. This hole is in the same position as that of the current Di2 specific Scott frames. A Shimano round hole grommet SM-GM01 was slid on after the cable was fitted.

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Figure 6: The next job to tackle was to run the cable from the Junction SM-JC40 to the rear derailleur. I decided not to try and drill the existing hole out at the rear of the chainstay for fear of weakening the carbon in that area but also to retain the flexibility of the frame so it could still be used for mechanical cables should it ever be required. If the hole was drilled out, there will be no stops for the outer cable to rest on for tension. Instead I drilled a 6mm hole at the front end of the existing cable guide below the bottom bracket and was able to lay the cable nicely in the guide slot that was there already. I used a small dab of silicon to hold the bracket in place.

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Figure 7: The rear derailleur cable enters into the bottom bracket area and will be routed above the bearing when it is fitted into the shell and connects with the Junction SM-JC40.

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Figure 8: The cable is run underneath the driveside chainstay to the rear derailleur within a Shimano cover sheath SM-EWC2 and is almost invisible to the eye with the bike assembled.

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Figure 9: The rear derailleur now connected. Ensure sufficient loop in the cable to allow for the derailleur to swing.

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Figure 10: I fed the cable from the front lever Junction SMEW67A (in my case) to the Junction SM-JC40, through the existing rear gear cable hole in the top tube. I carefully split the plastic grommet with a junior hacksaw fitted it around the cable and used ordinary insulating tape to tape it together again, which also tightly secured it within the hole to avoid dropping out under vibration.

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Figure 11: The cable was secured to the frame with a cut down Shimano cover sheath to avoid flapping in the wind.

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Figure 12: All the cables now run through the frame and connected up to the Junction SM-JC40 and ready for inserting into the downtube. Prior to fitting the bottom bracket, it was time to see if the system actually worked and there were no loose connections anywhere. I found the Shimano cable tool TL-EW02 invaluable and would recommend this to anyone for the few pence it costs. Yes you can get away without using it but why risk damaging the connector for a few pence?

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Figure 13: In my particular case I was mixing older 6770 levers with the newer 6870 front and rear derailleurs and with the battery fully charged up, to my horror found there was nothing happening to either derailleur when the levers were operated. I rigged the system up to the Shimano E Tube SM-PCE1 diagnostic interface device and downloaded the latest firmware, followed by diagnostic checks of all equipment. In a short time all was up and operating successfully. The above pic is a screenshot of the system after it had uploaded the new firmware and run through diagnostic checks successfully.

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Figure 14: At last, the finished article! A word of warning though to all Scott Foil owners – when refitting the bottom bracket, make sure that you use an epoxy glue to secure the push fit PF30 bearing in place. This will stop any movement of the bearing within the carbon frame shell, which if not treated, will at best cause creaking and at worst, create wear in the frame and render it useless if left too long.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 804
Location: Canada
Nice work....but I question the recommendation to use epoxy glue on the pf30 bb. Suggest loctite gap filler instead.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:37 am
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goodboyr wrote:
Nice work....but I question the recommendation to use epoxy glue on the pf30 bb. Suggest loctite gap filler instead.

Thanks for your comments 'goodboyr'. I do agree that you could use Loctite in the case of little or no wear in the BB shell bores. I however had some wear in the carbon shell bore, which I had read was becoming quite a widespread problem with the Scott Foil and epoxy is therefore more relevant when you have a bit more clearance. I read a lot of advice on this subject and went with the most experienced guy who knew exactly what he was talking about and who advised that epoxy is a suitable surrogate for carbon replacement due to wear because it bonds so effectively to the carbon matrix which is a cousin polymer of epoxy.
The epoxy naturally bonds to the matrix of carbon fiber and the bushings act as a mold of sorts but you need to install the crank as an alignment aid before the epoxy sets....and then when you knock worn bushings out later to replace them, what is left is a nice round hole mould of the bushing O.D. created by the epoxy.
This subject is covered in more detail with the BB Guru 'Campag4life' and can be found in BikeForums at http://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/951976-scott-foil-bb-problem-3.html#post17566816.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
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Location: Canada
Wow. Quite a thread. I get from the discussion that Scott has been warrantying frames where this has occurred. The epoxy idea is not from Scott but from this "campag4life" guy who extrapolated it from specialized. Interesting. As well, he sounds very very familiar............

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Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 11:25 pm 


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