Lynskey R330 Build - Complete - photos starting on pg 4

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foofighter14
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:57 pm

by foofighter14

which kurve is that? and how do you like it?

by Weenie


nspace
Posts: 323
Joined: Fri May 21, 2010 3:08 am
Location: Milton, Canada

by nspace

It is the Kurve Snake. I have a bunch more photos if you want me to post.

So far so good. I have come from years using the Arione/Arione CX, so the shape is very similar. It wasn't as "soft" or as flexible as I was hoping for, BUT, I also read that a few people who used this saddle needed a few rides to work it in a little. That is to say, it wasn't uncomfortable, very similar to Arione, but not 100% what I expected. As I get more miles in I will do a longer term review on my experience with the Kurve.

Hope that helps.

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Calnago
Posts: 5622
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

nspace wrote:Thanks!

Couple more shots:

Image



Sheesh, that's a nice looking hub. Did you build the wheels or did you have them built up? This may be getting a bit technical but I notice you have the rear "pulling" spokes laced heads in then interlaced under the crossing spoke by the derailleur. When the rear derailleur is on the big sprocket I'm wondering how much clearance you have between the derailleur cage and the spokes. I just built up a set of traditional 3x wheels using Record hubs and Nemesis rims with DT Comp spokes (which are of coursre thicker than your flat CX Rays), but I wanted to test how much clearance there would be with the 11 speed Campy. I built it up, slapped on a cassette and put it in my C59. The clearance was just too small for my liking and I got to thinking that a hard effort up a hill or in a sprint may just be enough to pull the crossed spoke into the derailleur. I mulled it over for a few minutes then decided it wasn't worth it to find out and rebuilt the wheel with the pulling spokes heads out to avoid this. Gave it a bit more clearance and piece of mind for me. I was also considering using the new CK campy hubs for this build, but it's kind of a classic so I went with Campy Record.

Love your photos by the way, very detailed.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

nspace
Posts: 323
Joined: Fri May 21, 2010 3:08 am
Location: Milton, Canada

by nspace

Calnago wrote:
nspace wrote:Thanks!

Couple more shots:

Image



Sheesh, that's a nice looking hub. Did you build the wheels or did you have them built up? This may be getting a bit technical but I notice you have the rear "pulling" spokes laced heads in then interlaced under the crossing spoke by the derailleur. When the rear derailleur is on the big sprocket I'm wondering how much clearance you have between the derailleur cage and the spokes. I just built up a set of traditional 3x wheels using Record hubs and Nemesis rims with DT Comp spokes (which are of coursre thicker than your flat CX Rays), but I wanted to test how much clearance there would be with the 11 speed Campy. I built it up, slapped on a cassette and put it in my C59. The clearance was just too small for my liking and I got to thinking that a hard effort up a hill or in a sprint may just be enough to pull the crossed spoke into the derailleur. I mulled it over for a few minutes then decided it wasn't worth it to find out and rebuilt the wheel with the pulling spokes heads out to avoid this. Gave it a bit more clearance and piece of mind for me. I was also considering using the new CK campy hubs for this build, but it's kind of a classic so I went with Campy Record.

Love your photos by the way, very detailed.


Thanks for the comments! I built up the wheels myself. At the risk of not sounding detail oriented, that wasn't something I actually considered when building. I've built up 6 or 7 wheelsets but never really had to worry about any tight derailleur clearances so not something I even thought to consider beforehand. In my head I am trying to picture reversing the heads in/heads out and trying to picture how it would affect the clearance but its hard without seeing it. Had I read your post, prior to building the wheels I probably would have put more thought into this aspect of the build (so I am thanking you for the advice for my future wheel builds :D ). That said, there aren't any clearance issues. There is about 2mm at least at the closest part of the derailleur (right in the center of the upper jockey wheel), and it lines up right around with the spoke cross. I haven't had any issues yet. Makes me want to give it a go on a steep climb to see if it poses a problem.

Being that this is my first venture into Campy, and of course 11 speed, what is acceptable or "normal" clearance from the cage to the spokes? Is this 2mm a cause for concern?
Last edited by nspace on Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:41 am, edited 2 times in total.

foofighter14
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:57 pm

by foofighter14

nspace wrote:It is the Kurve Snake. I have a bunch more photos if you want me to post.

So far so good. I have come from years using the Arione/Arione CX, so the shape is very similar. It wasn't as "soft" or as flexible as I was hoping for, BUT, I also read that a few people who used this saddle needed a few rides to work it in a little. That is to say, it wasn't uncomfortable, very similar to Arione, but not 100% what I expected. As I get more miles in I will do a longer term review on my experience with the Kurve.

Hope that helps.


Thank you so much! I will anxiously await the long term review!

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Calnago
Posts: 5622
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

nspace wrote:
Calnago wrote:
nspace wrote:Thanks!

Couple more shots:

Image



Sheesh, that's a nice looking hub. Did you build the wheels or did you have them built up? This may be getting a bit technical but I notice you have the rear "pulling" spokes laced heads in then interlaced under the crossing spoke by the derailleur. When the rear derailleur is on the big sprocket I'm wondering how much clearance you have between the derailleur cage and the spokes. I just built up a set of traditional 3x wheels using Record hubs and Nemesis rims with DT Comp spokes (which are of coursre thicker than your flat CX Rays), but I wanted to test how much clearance there would be with the 11 speed Campy. I built it up, slapped on a cassette and put it in my C59. The clearance was just too small for my liking and I got to thinking that a hard effort up a hill or in a sprint may just be enough to pull the crossed spoke into the derailleur. I mulled it over for a few minutes then decided it wasn't worth it to find out and rebuilt the wheel with the pulling spokes heads out to avoid this. Gave it a bit more clearance and piece of mind for me. I was also considering using the new CK campy hubs for this build, but it's kind of a classic so I went with Campy Record.

Love your photos by the way, very detailed.


Thanks for the comments! I built up the wheels myself. At the risk of not sounding detail oriented, that wasn't something I actually considered when building. I've built up 6 or 7 wheelsets but never really had to worry about any tight derailleur clearances so not something I even thought to consider beforehand. Had I read your post, prior to building the wheels I probably would have done the same thing as you (so I am thanking you for the advice for my future wheel builds :D ). That said, there aren't any clearance issues. There is about 2mm at least at the closest part of the derailleur (right in the center of the upper jockey wheel), and it lines up right around with the spoke cross. I haven't had any issues yet. Makes me want to give it a go on a steep climb to see if it poses a problem.

Being that this is my first venture into Campy, and of course, 11 speed, what is acceptable or "normal" clearance from the cage to the spokes?


I think you'll be fine with the 2mm of clearance. Campy is dished such that the spokes on the drive side are relatively vertical, especially when paired with a low profile rim. Hence the argument to lace the pulling spokes "over" the crossed spoke, so that when force is applied it pulls it inward rather than outward to the derailleur. When I put the cassette on to test it out, I was barely getting one millimeter of clearance and didn't want to risk it. On the other hand, having the pulling spokes heads in as you have it creates a slightly better bracing angle. I'm heavier at around 195lbs as well, so to be on the safe side I redid it. Plus, the flatter spokes of your CX Rays help as well. My round DT comps are thicker there so the cross becomes more of an issue.
Last edited by Calnago on Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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Ramjm_2000
Posts: 549
Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:26 pm
Location: US of A

by Ramjm_2000

nspace

Build looks outstanding!!! :thumbup:

JR

MeestahChow
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:13 pm

by MeestahChow

Looks awesome!
We'll have to revisit that Niagara ride someday.

BTW My Raijin frame came in the other day. Alas, I'll be waiting at least a few weeks for parts to arrive.

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Ramjm_2000
Posts: 549
Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:26 pm
Location: US of A

by Ramjm_2000

nspace wrote:- the Tune GumGum doesn't seem very great. I haven't had any luck with this so far. This came with my headset thankfully, but had I spent the money on this separately, I would've been disappointed. It slips, and I was unable to remove the play from the front end. Doesn't take much for the 3mm top cap bolt to get scoffed up either. I ended up using the porky Enve expander to lock things down and then replaced it with the Tune.


I had the same issues with my Extralight Bung and the Enve Fork, slipped all the time and went back to the Enve plug. That said when I switched over to the FRM C-Set, the bung it came with was outstanding and pretty light to boot!

iamalex
Posts: 215
Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:25 pm
Location: London, UK

by iamalex

Fantastic build and drool worthy photos, nspace!
Hope you enjoy it

nspace
Posts: 323
Joined: Fri May 21, 2010 3:08 am
Location: Milton, Canada

by nspace

Image

So far so good. Nearing 1000km on the bike so far and loving it. Frame has felt responsive and not too harsh, but also feels just stiff enough. Comparing this frame to my Ti MTB where I actually like it to have a bit of give, this has just the right amount of stiffness. Goes to show that these ride qualities have a lot more to do with frame design than generalizations about frame materials would have you believe.

The Fizik Kurve (Snake)—I am not sold on it. It is tolerable, but not great. I think I prefer my Arione CX. Haven't really found the sweet spot with this saddle, or experienced the suspension like comfort I read about in reviews. I am 145 lbs (65kg), and I don't know if I am not heavy enough or what, but it hasn't really worked in, or given me any sensation of flexing under neath me, just feels hard. I will give it a bit more time, but I am going to keep an eye out for a different saddle in the mean time. Another small complaint, is that with the outer trim of the saddle being plastic, it doesn't have any grip for when you lean the bike up against a wall or whatever. Just one of those things to be aware of. There has been a bit of creaking too on my last couple of rides. I will try to do some investigating this week to identify whether it is the saddle, post, or seat post shim.

Groupset—amazing! Loving Record and the feel of the shifting. Front derailleur took a bit of tinkering to get it just right. In retrospect I would just get a Chorus f/d. Having carbon in this area saves a few grams, and doesn't really add anything more... There is a bit of delaminating or clouding in the clear coat on the carbon part of the fork. I've read that this is common. Not worried, but definitely think a Chorus f/d would make more sense on this build.

Wheels — King hubs are excellent. Very smooth, love the engagement, and the sound isn't too overpowering at all. After a few rides I had to tighten up the bearing preload to remove a tiny bit of play but they have been solid since. The Alpha 340 rims I would say are just OK so far. I've had the rear come ever so slightly out of true. Need to true it again. I will say I haven't been exactly gentle on the bike, it has probably seen about 60-100km of rough roads, and lots of dirt roads. I may try to rebuild the rear and use a thread locker. One thing I noticed tho, is that had the rear perfect in the stand, but as soon as I got the tire mounted and up to pressure without even riding it, it seemed like it was already slightly out of true. I guess this wouldn't be the first time I hear of a tire at pressure affecting the spoke tensions on these rims.

Tires—LOVE the Veloflex Corsas. Very smooth ride. Have been great on all surfaces I've ridden on, even dirt roads. Very comfortable and smooth. Obviously can't comment on long-term wear yet, but they are still in great shape.

Ergonova's have been very comfortable. I can finally ride in the drops for much more extended periods. Great for long open stretches with headwinds, its shallow enough that I can get a bit more aero and stay in that position.

Speedplay—This is my first time with a dedicated road pedal, and first time with Speedplays. Really really liking these so far. They feel very secure, no issues clipping out, and dirt and grime hasn't been an issue yet. I do however think I need to invest in some aftermarket insoles for my Ergo 3's.

Overall, love the bike. Been getting out 3-4 times a week and getting my @$$ back in shape. Need to make a few tweaks, mainly with the saddle, and I will be even happier.
Last edited by nspace on Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Simonhi
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:15 pm

by Simonhi

Cracking bike, cracking read.

Good choice of components for a real world bike.

Great follow up on your choice of components. I found that since I built up my first road bike I have gradually changed a few parts to make things more comfortable and make the bike more rideable.

Barely touch my MTB now.

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jmilliron
Posts: 2014
Joined: Thu Jun 17, 2010 5:03 pm
Location: San Francisco Peninsula

by jmilliron

I love this bike.
2013 Wilier Cento1 SR || 2009 Ridley Crossbow || 2011 Yeti AS-R 5 Carbon

DavisWilly
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:12 am

by DavisWilly

Very sweet build.......

I'm looking to do a Lynskey build myself, either an R230 or maybe the Sportive (I like the ability to run wider tires and maybe even occasional fenders).

Anyways, your build is beautiful and given me lots of food for thought. Thanks and enjoy!!!

by Weenie


KB
Posts: 3868
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 12:32 pm
Location: HULLGARIA UK

by KB

Thanks for sharing. Very nice build and the picture quality is outstanding.

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