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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:53 pm
Posts: 19
xtr are simple to convert on a two gear that will make one of the lightest crankset and stiffest

remove the 44t and replace the 22 -34 by 29-40 x 104mm blackspire.com

that`s my setup

Daniel


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 10:55 am
Posts: 18
Location: Melrose
2nd the e13's although not the lightest. You could buy there SS cranks and add their 2x9/2x10 shift rings. Saves weight, super strong and looks the works.

My combo comes in at 799 g. :up:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2004 2:10 pm
Posts: 331
Location: Kyiv, Ukraine
agree that XTR are great in terms of price\weight ratio. Once the rings wear out you can replace them with TA at a much better price.

if money is not an issue, i'm casting another vote for Clavs. i'm surprizingly happy with them on my HT. 3 years of racing & riding in all conditions with total odo of 6000-8000km and beartings are still smooth, no play or anything. Arms show numerous scratches and stone hits (my dear!) but hold up just fine. Unless the high price, i'd equip all the bikes with Clavs. :beerchug:

curious to hear regarding Rotor cranks though. Those look sweeeet as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:03 am
Posts: 620
Location: nyc
Yes I too am curious about ROTOR for MTB, I would consider them next year as replacements if/when I decide to move on. If anybody can give us feedback on them in terms of medium/long-term usage, how well they handle abuse and how stiff the rings are, bearings, etc as well as overall comparison to traditional/round cranks, I would really like to hear it.

For now, I replaced my own XTR granny ring ($40 US) and will ride it to death this next year and then might move on to something new, I think e13 will have new XCXR stuff out by next winter or so.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2010 12:11 am
Posts: 141
i've used a rotor ring for a bit as a 1x9 and there great. it was a SS ring so i cant tell you how it shifts but as for the oval design the best way to illustrate the change is.... peddle with one foot, normally its very choppy but with the rotor on its much smoother.

one of my team mates has there 3d crank and he likes it but i couldn't tell you more..


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:46 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Tallinn
Race Face Next SL is pretty light & sturdy.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:23 pm
Posts: 5
s-works crank but the frame has to be a bb30 ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 4:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 4:36 am
Posts: 100
n2b wrote:
s-works crank but the frame has to be a bb30 ;)

2011 S-Works MTB cranks will work on 68mm threaded BB but you must use Hive or Zipp cups.I'll try and post pics later.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:17 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 4:36 am
Posts: 100
2011 S-Works MTB 175mm, Lightning double/triple 64/104 spider, Extralite 22T/32T.
On these cranks you want to run the Lightning spider & lock ring, its 22grams lighter than the Spec. spider & also cheaper.
I've got a full season on these they are great - no issues - very stiff with no rider weight limit.
Way lighter & cheaper [if you live in the USA] than XTR or XX.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1413
xc71 wrote:
2011 S-Works MTB cranks will work on 68mm threaded BB but you must use Hive or Zipp cups.I'll try and post pics later.

How does that work? I thought the crank spindle was too narrow for a threaded shell + the extra width of bearing cups? Kinda the same problem the stock Hollowgram spindle has unless you modify it? Or will it only work with a 68mm wide shell and not a 73mm?

You're totally right about them being an amazing deal for those in the USA though! Being able to use the Lightning spider(s) makes it even better.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 4:36 am
Posts: 100
This will not work on 73mm BB, only 68m BB. I had to remove all 3 of the 2.5mm spacers, so the cups go against the frame. The only external spacer I used was the wave washer that comes with the cranks on the non drive side - this worked perfect. From my XTR 970 cranks this set up gave me a narrower Q-Factor and 2mm less chain line, whiched I wanted as I'm running 2x9.
My Hive cups are 95 grams. I just saw Clav. has threaded cups for a 68mm BB and 30mm axle that are 72 grams & I'm 95% sure these would work on my set up.Probably try these when I need new BB bearings.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:07 pm
Posts: 47
Is the Noir worth upgrading? It came stock on '10 SF100 (PF95 BB, 24mm spindle, GXP type). I'm considering upgrading it along with my 10spd upgrade (1x10). Haven't done much research regarding weight, but figured I couldn't go wrong with XX, except the XX crankset is a double, and I wanted to go 1x10.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 12:07 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1413
Thanks xc71

I must have had it in my head that both the 73mm shell and 68mm shell didn't work for the S-works cranks. But now you mention it I remember seeing one of the Specialized sponsored riders with the cranks on a threaded frame - originally 73mm wide but faced down to 68mm and using Zipp BB cups.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 12:40 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:26 pm
Posts: 682
Location: Australia
I need to weigh them, but I believe my Cannondale Hollowgram cranks are lighter than the S-Works. As a complete with BB anyway.

They are definitely stiffer.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1413
@ legs - Nah, the S-Works weigh less than the Cannondale. Stiffness? Maybe, but not by much. I'd certainly take the lighter weight. 180mm arms are also a big bonus for lots of people. Being about half the price of a set of Hollowgrams for those in the ol' USA doesn't hurt either.


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