New Bike = Advice Needed

Discuss light weight issues concerning mountain bikes & parts.

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cadence90
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 1:52 am

by cadence90

Wow, this room is different. 8)
I've been over on the roadie side awhile, never really came across the hall...but I do recognize some names.

I am having a new road frame and a new MTB ti frame (hardtail) made.
The MTB will be used for general trail riding, commuting, not hard dh stuff and no racing, etc. I weigh about 195#.

I am new to whole MTB thing, so I know 0 about components really.
I am also on an MTB component budget, so excellent condition used or NIB old stock is fine.

What suggestions do you all have for drivetrain, shifters, wheels, fork, pedals, everything/anything you can think of.
Durability/quality take precedence over weight/zoot.
Basic price/source info if you know it would be appreciated too.

I know it's a lot to ask: Thanks in advance. :)

O, do I need a new avatar to be admitted to this area of the house...? I hope not! :P
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

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Tim the Pineapple
Posts: 220
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:30 pm

by Tim the Pineapple

Umm commuting, buy a beater fir that, mtb aint exacly bomb or theft proof...

This is my personal opinion but i think it's better to start with standard stuff like shimano, but don't go any lower than LX (I dont think its worth it).

But we need to know how much yer willing to spend ya know... It would be easier to help, with parts choice.

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cadence90
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 1:52 am

by cadence90

The frame is set, it's a given, because it's a special situation and a friend who's building it.

I don't mind commuting on a nice bike, and that won't be it's only or even primary use. My bikes don't get stolen: they're under me or at my desk. :)

Budget? I don't really know how to "set" one: it depends a bit on what I learn, what I may have to sacrifice for, and what I find is rational. I'm not looking for top-end stuff, but quality is important. (I'm not telling a new roadie "go Record all the way" when I know Chorus (or even Centaur in some cases) is at least as good except for a few bolts, etc., for instance.) If I knew more about all the options and prices I'd be able to say. If by group: in the XT range maybe?, with TruVativ mixed in because I might get good prices on their stuff.

That's all I know right now, sorry I don't have enough knowledge to be more specific....
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

Tim the Pineapple
Posts: 220
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:30 pm

by Tim the Pineapple

Ok if you want quality that last long. Get everything in XT, it lasted me 3 years of hard training and racing. Only thing i replaced were cables and brake pads, xt is solid group. You can mix n match but since you arent very familiar with mtb i dont really recommend it.
For stem and seatpost stick with thompson.
Wheels get mavic x517 laced with al nips, DT comps in 3x.
Bars ummm your choice either flat or low-riser.
Bar ends your choice.
Seat your choice.
Tires your choice.
Pedals, your choice, (i like time or shimano).

All above are great for racing and general riding. It aint those euro parts but since it still decently light and quality stuff.

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nzkiwiguy
Posts: 346
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:18 pm
Location: Colorado

by nzkiwiguy

My thoughts

XT front derailuer - get new
XTR (2002) rear get new
XT shifter pods get new
Avid 7 brakes/levers if rim - ebay
Old Hope Mini if disk - ebay
Fork - Manitou or fox NOT a SID - it would be too flexy for your weight. go 100mm if possible with a lockout.

Crank - Race face Next LP - ebay. Then get a set of new rings for it.
Chain - SRAM PC89 or 99.


Easton makes great bars,stems,seatposts etc with a big price range. Thompson are fantastic as well

Make sure your frame builder sets the frame for a 100mm not an 80mm, our your head angle will be slack and slower steering

Wheels - So many choices. If rim be sure they are ceramic rims and get ceramic brake pads. Worth the extra cost in power and wet weather use.

I think value for money "factory rims" bontrager's are good weight/reliability and they come tubeless ready.

I use speed dream wheels - custom about $490 - $650 for a bulletproof set custom to your needs and weight. They will last you forever (chris king hubs, velocity rims)

Ebay is the place to get a lot of stuff. Camria bikes is good as well with some good clearance sales

Welcome to the MTB fold

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cadence90
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 1:52 am

by cadence90

nzkiwiguy wrote:My thoughts

XT front derailuer - get new
XTR (2002) rear get new
XT shifter pods get new
Avid 7 brakes/levers if rim - ebay
Old Hope Mini if disk - ebay
Fork - Manitou or fox NOT a SID - it would be too flexy for your weight. go 100mm if possible with a lockout.

Crank - Race face Next LP - ebay. Then get a set of new rings for it.
Chain - SRAM PC89 or 99.


Easton makes great bars,stems,seatposts etc with a big price range. Thompson are fantastic as well

Make sure your frame builder sets the frame for a 100mm not an 80mm, our your head angle will be slack and slower steering

Wheels - So many choices. If rim be sure they are ceramic rims and get ceramic brake pads. Worth the extra cost in power and wet weather use.

I think value for money "factory rims" bontrager's are good weight/reliability and they come tubeless ready.

I use speed dream wheels - custom about $490 - $650 for a bulletproof set custom to your needs and weight. They will last you forever (chris king hubs, velocity rims)

Ebay is the place to get a lot of stuff. Camria bikes is good as well with some good clearance sales

Welcome to the MTB fold

Thanks nz,
I figured you'd have some good advice, sinceI've read your stuff on the road side. :)
I think you and I are 2 of the SpeedDream advocates here: my road wheels are great. I like Dave's philosophy, not a zillion types, just a couple for each discipline, tuned to rider specs, and built extremely well: simple!
Thanks for the tip on the head. I'll tell him 100mm.
Any particular ideas on the fork? I've been looking at stuff, Manitou and Fox as you advise: the range is huge! What about Marzocchi? What is "lockout" :?:
On crank length, does one buy the same length as road? What about BB? Is the debate here the same: ISIS versus other systems?
Also, what is the difference between flat and riser bars, just the effect on position?
This is fun stuff! Thanks again.
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

Tim the Pineapple
Posts: 220
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:30 pm

by Tim the Pineapple

Lockout means you lock the suspension fork so there is no travel, its nice for smooth climbs. For forks i say get a coil than air, high end air fork maintenence is a pain for newbie. I say stick with marz mx comp coil. But if you dont mind maintenance and really picky about your riding style/feel of the fork, get an air like Manitou Skareb, Fox F80 or Marz marathon SL.

Crank length start out with 175mm and adjust to your riding style. I say just stick with shimano octalink, or the new xt comes in hollowtech 2.

Riser gives you more leverage and slightly more up right position, but between both, its up to you to decide. Try both a flat bar 580mm with 3 degree bend, and a 620mm low riser (.5") with 5 degree bend.

You will have to try alot of stuff and see what you like, for general riding it really doesnt matter i guess, but for racing mtber's are picky as hell.

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cadence90
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 1:52 am

by cadence90

Tim the Pineapple wrote:Lockout means you lock the suspension fork so there is no travel, its nice for smooth climbs.

Thanks. Makes sense, although on mtbr.com I get the impression it's a "thing of the past"?
For forks i say get a coil than air, high end air fork maintenence is a pain for newbie. I say stick with marz mx comp coil. But if you dont mind maintenance and really picky about your riding style/feel of the fork, get an air like Manitou Skareb, Fox F80 or Marz marathon SL.

The builder is also suggesting Marzocchi, I'll check the mx comp and the marathon out. I don't mind maintenance, but I do prefer simplicity....I know I'll have to ride these to feel the difference; I think the fork/wheels will be the most important components, especially the fork.
Crank length start out with 175mm and adjust to your riding style. I say just stick with shimano octalink, or the new xt comes in hollowtech 2.

Riser gives you more leverage and slightly more up right position, but between both, its up to you to decide. Try both a flat bar 580mm with 3 degree bend, and a 620mm low riser (.5") with 5 degree bend.

You will have to try alot of stuff and see what you like, for general riding it really doesnt matter i guess, but for racing mtber's are picky as hell.

Yeah, once I get a basic idea of the direction I'll go to the LBS and check various components out. I suppose it's also due to my lack of knowledge, but there seems to be a dizzying array of choices and really more technical/philosophical differences on mtb components; it puts the whole endless roadie "Campagnolo vs. Shimano" debate in a whole new context. :!:
Thanks for the tips. :)
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

Tim the Pineapple
Posts: 220
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 10:30 pm

by Tim the Pineapple

Coil forks are much more simple and rides more plush compare to air. But you cant adjust coil like air and coil weighs more.

We also have sram vs shimano debate but you cant really run all sram since sram dont make front deraileur. :) I personally am running all sram except xtr front deraileur.

Best advice is to go to LBS, but make sure they dont fool ya with downhill and freeride stuff on a xc or general riding bike (alot of shops do that). Tell them you want xc stuff.
Make sure they have well known stuff like Easton, Thompson, FSA, Avid, Shimano, Sram, Truvativ etc...

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nzkiwiguy
Posts: 346
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:18 pm
Location: Colorado

by nzkiwiguy

Sram is cheaper than shimano, but not as upgradeable

I love sram chains.

Forks Marzocchi is great. air/coil or just coil unless weight is totally important. I love the Fox forks as they are so plush and bulletproof.

Fox Vanilla in coil or an F100 RL or RLC.

You are a roadie so used to a lower position so a flat bar should work for you. However you have to be more active in moving your weight around to lift the front end or on downhills.

If you go riser don't get anything more than a 3/4" rise 24" width for XC.
You and always put a 10% stem on to bring your position up.

As you are getting a frame built I would recommend riding a few bikes from your LBS and then go to the website and get their measurements to give to the builder.

ISIS BB's or octolink is the way to go. XT Octolink is low maintenance and great, but limits your crank choice (Shimano, FSA, and a few others)

ISIS gives you a greater choice. Don't buy the crank second hand as the rings could be shot and they are worth more than the arms. XT crank and BB is a great light and stiff set and best value for money

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



User avatar
cadence90
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 1:52 am

by cadence90

Thanks Tim, thanks Kiwi,
I'm taking it all in, I appreciate the sound advice and specifics. I'll start to put together a preliminary build list over this week or so, and see what you guys think.
Thanks again. :)
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri

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