Tire direction MTB
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I just unpacked my son's first MTB. I noticed the rear tire was in the wrong direction.
I messaged Cube and the gave me the below answer
Dear Joris,
our techsupport had a look on that picture and they explain that the tire is in the right position: For a rear tire "rear" and the corresponding arrow have to be in the rolling direction - as you can see on the picture.
(If this was a picture of the front tire, you're right and it has to be the other way round because then "front" and the corresponding arrow have to be in the rolling direction.)
Best regards
Your CUBE Team
I have a road cycling background and on my racer we mount the rear tire in the same direction as the front.
Could anyone shed some light?
I messaged Cube and the gave me the below answer
Dear Joris,
our techsupport had a look on that picture and they explain that the tire is in the right position: For a rear tire "rear" and the corresponding arrow have to be in the rolling direction - as you can see on the picture.
(If this was a picture of the front tire, you're right and it has to be the other way round because then "front" and the corresponding arrow have to be in the rolling direction.)
Best regards
Your CUBE Team
I have a road cycling background and on my racer we mount the rear tire in the same direction as the front.
Could anyone shed some light?
Your orient the tire on the rear wheel for the maximum traction when pedaling.
So the blocks in the thread face backwards. Think of muddy trails...
On the front tire it's the opposite.
You want the thread to face forward fo maximum braking perfomance. Bigger opening of the blocks forward.
The blocks oriented outwards on the edge also increase the grab while turning.
During leaning the bike into the turn, the inner blocks will grab earlier.
This is just for the thread pattern and may vary with different tires.
I don't know if there is may be a difference in the casing itself.
hope i could help
Merc86
So the blocks in the thread face backwards. Think of muddy trails...
On the front tire it's the opposite.
You want the thread to face forward fo maximum braking perfomance. Bigger opening of the blocks forward.
The blocks oriented outwards on the edge also increase the grab while turning.
During leaning the bike into the turn, the inner blocks will grab earlier.
This is just for the thread pattern and may vary with different tires.
I don't know if there is may be a difference in the casing itself.
hope i could help
Merc86
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I built a bike for my dad last year. I flipped the rear tire for maximum traction. There was a warranty issue with the rear derailler so he took it to a bike shop for them to deal with Shimano. They told him the rear tire was on wrong so they charged him to flip it back!
In my opinion unless perhaps you are a top athlete who for example can distinguish a differenve of 2 psi in tyre pressure, it is manufacturer bollocks.
As a mere mortal, ive ridden mtbs with tyre in all directions on dry and muddy ground and can not tell that the directionality made any difference.
As a rule i fit rear as per arrow if there is one and front in reverse.
As a mere mortal, ive ridden mtbs with tyre in all directions on dry and muddy ground and can not tell that the directionality made any difference.
As a rule i fit rear as per arrow if there is one and front in reverse.
It depends very much where you ride and how you ride whether direction of rotation is important.
Just like the tread patterns on cars which are designed to expel water to keep the tyre on the road and where driving in the dry means its irrelevant as to which way round its going, other than a few MTB tyres which are directional for other (usually how it drives the cornering force) reasons, if you ride hardpack or sand it doesn't usually matter which way round they are fitted, if you ride in mud it can make a big difference.
Tyres are usually directional to expel mud to get grip when rolling, but sometimes for the front they suggest rotating the other way, that way as it starts to lock (so the tread blocks approach the mud in the opposite direction) it will reject mud better, this means it will start to lock more readily but will also try and unlock more readily - which you then prefer is very personal!
Quite how the OP thought that rear was fitted wrong I'm not sure!
Just like the tread patterns on cars which are designed to expel water to keep the tyre on the road and where driving in the dry means its irrelevant as to which way round its going, other than a few MTB tyres which are directional for other (usually how it drives the cornering force) reasons, if you ride hardpack or sand it doesn't usually matter which way round they are fitted, if you ride in mud it can make a big difference.
Tyres are usually directional to expel mud to get grip when rolling, but sometimes for the front they suggest rotating the other way, that way as it starts to lock (so the tread blocks approach the mud in the opposite direction) it will reject mud better, this means it will start to lock more readily but will also try and unlock more readily - which you then prefer is very personal!
Quite how the OP thought that rear was fitted wrong I'm not sure!
Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
Not in wet mud its not, you need to expel the mud and not scoop it up under the contact patch.
Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
If I accepted that I'd only ride for 3 months of the year!
Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
I've not tried slick tires in sticky clay mud. Wonder how they would work. Would the clay still stick? Would I get any traction? The problem with knobbies in this soil is that it keeps building up and jams the wheels, gets in the drivetrain too. Unrideable, in my opinion. Big cleanup mess too.
Slicks are useless, you need a tread with very open knobbles, Nobby Nic's for example cope quite well, also running lower pressures (tubeless) helps tyre distortion and hence shedding.
Open knobble pattern means they have a high loading/knob and the knobs dig through the thin slimey top layer to the grip below better, plus they don't hold onto the mud and shed it.
Local to me the ground is about 6-8" of soil on top of clay, so on any footpath/bridelway etc the soil has gone and its clay.
Open knobble pattern means they have a high loading/knob and the knobs dig through the thin slimey top layer to the grip below better, plus they don't hold onto the mud and shed it.
Local to me the ground is about 6-8" of soil on top of clay, so on any footpath/bridelway etc the soil has gone and its clay.
Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
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Maybe to help those reading this thread who are not familiar with directional indicators, I would like to clarify that the arrows should ALWAYS point to the front and you flip the tyre around depending on whether it is on the front wheel or the back wheel.
I.e. in the OP's picture, the tyre is on the right way because it is the rear wheel and the arrow indicating "REAR" is pointing forwards. You would want to flip that around for the front wheel.
I.e. in the OP's picture, the tyre is on the right way because it is the rear wheel and the arrow indicating "REAR" is pointing forwards. You would want to flip that around for the front wheel.