Light weight singlespeed crank set
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orange77 wrote:Raceface Next SL
These are $hit*.
My mate has snapped two crank arms and the 3rd set had a load of play between the drive side crank to spindle.
*These were the SL G4's, so the normal SL's may be different?
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
Sram XX1 Eagle is 391g for 175mm GXP arms, about 20g heavier than RaceFace Next SL but can be found quite a bit cheaper.
ryanw wrote:orange77 wrote:Raceface Next SL
These are $hit*.
My mate has snapped two crank arms and the 3rd set had a load of play between the drive side crank to spindle.
*These were the SL G4's, so the normal SL's may be different?
Never had a problem with mine (G3). Hope it stays that way...
ryanw wrote:orange77 wrote:Raceface Next SL
These are $hit*.
My mate has snapped two crank arms and the 3rd set had a load of play between the drive side crank to spindle.
*These were the SL G4's, so the normal SL's may be different?
Sounds like your mate doesn't know how to assemble bicycle parts correctly.
LeDuke wrote:ryanw wrote:orange77 wrote:Raceface Next SL
These are $hit*.
My mate has snapped two crank arms and the 3rd set had a load of play between the drive side crank to spindle.
*These were the SL G4's, so the normal SL's may be different?
Sounds like your mate doesn't know how to assemble bicycle parts correctly.
He's a national masters enduro champ...
Snapping two crank arms in half has nothing to do with installation
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
ryanw wrote:LeDuke wrote:ryanw wrote:orange77 wrote:Raceface Next SL
These are $hit*.
My mate has snapped two crank arms and the 3rd set had a load of play between the drive side crank to spindle.
*These were the SL G4's, so the normal SL's may be different?
Sounds like your mate doesn't know how to assemble bicycle parts correctly.
He's a national masters enduro champ...
Snapping two crank arms in half has nothing to do with installation
I was referring to the "load of play between the drive side crank to spindle". Pretty easy to fix that.
And, I know plenty of bike racers who know next to nothing about the workings of their bicycles. I can win a WC XCO race, but that doesn't mean I know how to maintain a bicycle.
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I run XX1 GXP cranks. Never actually weighed them but they perform exceptionally well, have stages compatibility and a mass of chain ring options to suit them from the aftermarket. Got them on a supplier special for 250nzd
I guess there's worse hobbies than making a bike light? Right?
Assuming you're using this on the road and in competition, you are typically facing hills and having to put a lot of out-of-the-saddle leverage on the cranks. Pure weight savings tend to cost you there. I've seen riders with stability problems because they went to ultralight cranksets. The Dura Ace 7710 track cranks are one of the lightest track cranks out there -- hollow crank arms and a 7700 road bottom bracket is very light (some of the lightweight cranks save weight but then give it away with the bottom brackets you have to use).
11.4 wrote:Assuming you're using this on the road and in competition, you are typically facing hills and having to put a lot of out-of-the-saddle leverage on the cranks. Pure weight savings tend to cost you there. I've seen riders with stability problems because they went to ultralight cranksets. The Dura Ace 7710 track cranks are one of the lightest track cranks out there -- hollow crank arms and a 7700 road bottom bracket is very light (some of the lightweight cranks save weight but then give it away with the bottom brackets you have to use).
This is the MTB subforum.
Not sure why you're recommending track cranks for offroad use. They won't fit, won't provide usable gearing, and would have a weird chainline even if you could find a chainring small enough to fit them on any modern MTB frame.
Next SL cranks are also pretty damn stiff. I know tons of people who run them with zero issues. They are one of the easiest cranks to setup. The only issue with them is actually the BB creak, but again any decent mechanic should be able to prevent that.
LeDuke wrote:11.4 wrote:Assuming you're using this on the road and in competition, you are typically facing hills and having to put a lot of out-of-the-saddle leverage on the cranks. Pure weight savings tend to cost you there. I've seen riders with stability problems because they went to ultralight cranksets. The Dura Ace 7710 track cranks are one of the lightest track cranks out there -- hollow crank arms and a 7700 road bottom bracket is very light (some of the lightweight cranks save weight but then give it away with the bottom brackets you have to use).
This is the MTB subforum.
Not sure why you're recommending track cranks for offroad use. They won't fit, won't provide usable gearing, and would have a weird chainline even if you could find a chainring small enough to fit them on any modern MTB frame.
Ooops. I just saw it as a recent thread and didn't notice it was MTB and not road.
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:45 am
Spesh s-works cranks - maybe the older model with a directmount ring is just a little lighter than the new one?
or Lightning http://www.lightningbikes.com/cranks/
- carpetrunner
or Lightning http://www.lightningbikes.com/cranks/
- carpetrunner
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