17.0mm = Performance SPD compatible dual sided MTB
(c) http://www.cyclecycle.info/pedal-stack-heights
10.3mm = PD-M770 = PD-M780
(c) http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=112675
10.3mm = PD-M970
8.1mm = PD-M980 = PD-M9000
8.5mm = PD-M985 = PD-M9020
(c) http://www.freshairexp.com/common/asset ... %20xtr.pdf
9.8mm = PD-M8000
(c) PD-M8000 vs PD-M780 = 0.5mm
?? = PD-M540
?? = PD-M530
?? = PD-M520
Different SPD pedals with 5mm stack height difference?
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motorthings
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motorthings
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I was surprised to find this doc, because when i called shimano for info, the tech guy i talked to (who was very helpful), could not find any tech docs with this info.
He went and measured some pedals for me, though, which gave me some info i needed.
He went and measured some pedals for me, though, which gave me some info i needed.
You might want to keep an eye on the Q-factor if mixing and matching different pedals too. No point having a higher stack height on one if the Q-Factor also increases a lot. You may be able to compensate with cleat placement but it depends the current position and how much room you have to play with I guess
Suggestions for the OP in no particular order:
- When shimming the cleat itself, since it is only a 2 bolt design there will be a tendency for the cleat shim to spin against the sole even when properly torqued down, as the shim won't have the little "teeth" that the cleat itself has to bite into the shoe sole. This can be remedied by applying some self adhesive sandpaper texture grip tape (as used on skateboards or for safety on stairs) to the underside of the cleat shim or the sole of the shoe.
- If you use Sidi shoes with replaceable tread sections, you can remove the treads, and shim under them an equivalent amount to your cleat shim, in order to preserve the relationship between the tread and pedal platform.
- On shoes like Shimano without replaceable tread sections, Shoe Goo or similar material can be used to build up the tread to the desired thickness around the cleat pocket. Multiple thin layers are ideal, although the durability is not great if you walk a lot in the shoes, so you would probably need to reapply several times per season. This is an alternative though, if you are unable to affix the tread material from the cobbler that you mentioned.
- On the topic of cobblers, with most shoes it is possible to have the cobbler remove the shoe upper from the mid sole, and then add the desired shim material to the mid sole before re-gluing the upper back into place. This allows you to keep the cleat directly mounted to the sole, but also preserve the internal volume of the shoe upper so your toes aren't squished, as the upper goes back on above the shim layer.
- That cobbling is probably unneeded for your minimal shim needs though, as it is important to remember that the shim only needs to sit under the pedal load bearing portions of the foot, which are generally the heel and ball. Assuming that the squishing you mentioned with an in-shoe shim was at the toes, you can simply trim your shim to end at the impressions left by the ball of your foot (1st to 5th MTP) and then put the shim under your current insole. The actual area under your toes won't gain any thickness preserving your toe wiggle room, but from a leg length perspective the shim will behave as if it was full length. In my experience the seam is not noticeable as it sits under a portion of the toes that doesn't sit on the insole anyway.
- When shimming the cleat itself, since it is only a 2 bolt design there will be a tendency for the cleat shim to spin against the sole even when properly torqued down, as the shim won't have the little "teeth" that the cleat itself has to bite into the shoe sole. This can be remedied by applying some self adhesive sandpaper texture grip tape (as used on skateboards or for safety on stairs) to the underside of the cleat shim or the sole of the shoe.
- If you use Sidi shoes with replaceable tread sections, you can remove the treads, and shim under them an equivalent amount to your cleat shim, in order to preserve the relationship between the tread and pedal platform.
- On shoes like Shimano without replaceable tread sections, Shoe Goo or similar material can be used to build up the tread to the desired thickness around the cleat pocket. Multiple thin layers are ideal, although the durability is not great if you walk a lot in the shoes, so you would probably need to reapply several times per season. This is an alternative though, if you are unable to affix the tread material from the cobbler that you mentioned.
- On the topic of cobblers, with most shoes it is possible to have the cobbler remove the shoe upper from the mid sole, and then add the desired shim material to the mid sole before re-gluing the upper back into place. This allows you to keep the cleat directly mounted to the sole, but also preserve the internal volume of the shoe upper so your toes aren't squished, as the upper goes back on above the shim layer.
- That cobbling is probably unneeded for your minimal shim needs though, as it is important to remember that the shim only needs to sit under the pedal load bearing portions of the foot, which are generally the heel and ball. Assuming that the squishing you mentioned with an in-shoe shim was at the toes, you can simply trim your shim to end at the impressions left by the ball of your foot (1st to 5th MTP) and then put the shim under your current insole. The actual area under your toes won't gain any thickness preserving your toe wiggle room, but from a leg length perspective the shim will behave as if it was full length. In my experience the seam is not noticeable as it sits under a portion of the toes that doesn't sit on the insole anyway.
