Thru Axles....
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- Posts: 46
- Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:09 pm
So looking so save some weight with lighter thru axles for both front (15x100) and rear (12x142). Are they all the same, some better, some worse?
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Buy the non-QR axle either Fox or Rochshox makes for the fork. For the rear you gotta get the right type. Let's assume your frame (Scott, Santa Cruz) uses the flat DT interface* on the left and the DT/Syntace threading on the right. That leaves Carbon-Ti, Extralite, and Paragon Machine Works as your choices. The Paragon is cheap and easy to get in the US, but heavy and needs to be hollowed out for significant weight savings. The Carbon-Ti is expensive but their webstore should work fine and make it possible to buy one and get it sent here. Same with Extralite but the hex is on the threaded end so make sure that'll work with your frame (it's hidden behind the hanger bolt on Santa Cruz).
Your frame could also use the conical DT/Syntace, Shimano, or Rockshox systems. Figure it out based on what thru-axle it came with.
Your frame could also use the conical DT/Syntace, Shimano, or Rockshox systems. Figure it out based on what thru-axle it came with.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2015 9:24 am
Hi - would the ShiftUp work with a Focus Cayo Disc.
Cheers
Cheers
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2015 9:24 am
The focus cam with:
Front: 100x15mm
Rear: 142x12mm
I will also need the nuts as the RAT system it came with has no threads.
The thru axle nuts are not integrated into the frame. The rear is held on by a small hex screw. The front doesn't have anything holding it and easily drops out when the axle is removed.
Cheers
Front: 100x15mm
Rear: 142x12mm
I will also need the nuts as the RAT system it came with has no threads.
The thru axle nuts are not integrated into the frame. The rear is held on by a small hex screw. The front doesn't have anything holding it and easily drops out when the axle is removed.
Cheers
- spookyload
- Posts: 1048
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 6:47 am
- Location: Albuquerque, NM
I have carbon-ti on the back and the rock shox road bolt-on on the front. No problems. Rock Shox is making a road 100x15 now too for the cross bike. If I am taking a wheel off my bike on the MTB or Cross bike, using a 5mm or 6mm to do it isn't carrying too many extra tools. I like the security knowing so D-bag isn't going to pop a quick release and be off with my wheels while it is locked in my bike rack.
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2011 8:53 am
If your frame is un-threaded (as most Chinese frames are) why not make some ? Saved me roughly 120g (on my fat bike) . All you need is some carbon tube , ti shock pivots , M6 ti bolts , alloy rod and washers plus some good epoxy . Use multiple tubes to achieve the required thickness/weight/diameter . Push in the shock pivots . Bond the whole caboodle together and cross pin the tube/s and pivots with the rod . I also bonded one bolt in one end for ease .
Fattrucker
P.S. Do this at your own risk of course
Fattrucker
P.S. Do this at your own risk of course
Fattrucker wrote:If your frame is un-threaded (as most Chinese frames are) why not make some ? Saved me roughly 120g (on my fat bike) . All you need is some carbon tube , ti shock pivots , M6 ti bolts , alloy rod and washers plus some good epoxy . Use multiple tubes to achieve the required thickness/weight/diameter . Push in the shock pivots . Bond the whole caboodle together and cross pin the tube/s and pivots with the rod . I also bonded one bolt in one end for ease .
Fattrucker
P.S. Do this at your own risk of course
Care to post pictures of these? Sounds like a cool DIY project.
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