New Formula R1 Racing (2016) - piston problem

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HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

I've just got my Formula R1R's (2016 version) in the mail, and I've noticed that the pistons isn't completely pushed backwards (not in line with the calliper body). Is this how it should be, or should they be completely on the same level as the calliper body? I hope you guys understand my question and might be able to answer. It might seem a bit silly starting a thread of it's own for this, but I really would appreciate it if anyone could answer my question.
Last edited by HaakonJohansen on Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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northy185
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2016 1:08 am

by northy185

You want the pistons to be in the same position, so they both press into your rotor at the same rate. Remove the brake pads, use a plastic tire lever (or the fancy Park Tool PP-1.2 Hydraulic Brake Piston Press) to press the rogue piston back into position. After this is complete, gently squeeze the brake lever to make sure they come out at the same rate. You may have to hold one piston to free the other one and get it moving. Rubbing alcohol will help this process.

Good Luck!

DanW
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:39 pm
Location: Here, there and everywhere

by DanW

Welcome to the joy that is R1's poor piston retraction and constantly rubbing brakes. I'm pretty sure we tried to warn you here on WW!

HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

DanW wrote:Welcome to the joy that is R1's poor piston retraction and constantly rubbing brakes. I'm pretty sure we tried to warn you here on WW!

I know a lot of people had a lot of bad experience with the previous generation of the R1 R's, but with the new generations I've mostly read positive feedback (?). I am able to press the pistons back when removing the pads, but they do not move at the same pace at all, and they do not seem to retract much at all. Is there some break-in time for the pistons to get smoother? Could the brakes be faulty?

HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

Anyone? Should I be concerned that the brakes might be faulty? The pistons are moving quite crooked as well (top moving more than the bottom. Could using some dot4 as lube solve this behaviour?

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rapsac
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:35 am

by rapsac

You may try the advised silicon lubricant, Kluber, on the pistons. See Hope video on Youtube.

HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

rapsac wrote:You may try the advised silicon lubricant, Kluber, on the pistons. See Hope video on Youtube.

So even if the brakes are new, they might not be lubed sufficiently? I really hope this might do the trick, and that my brakes aren't faulty.

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rapsac
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:35 am

by rapsac

HaakonJohansen wrote:
rapsac wrote:You may try the advised silicon lubricant, Kluber, on the pistons. See Hope video on Youtube.

So even if the brakes are new, they might not be lubed sufficiently? I really hope this might do the trick, and that my brakes aren't faulty.

No, I meant that if you want to lubricate, better use the Kluber silicon grease. If it will help in your case, I do not know. If the brakes are new but faulty, just send them back and get a replacement or refund?

HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

rapsac wrote:
HaakonJohansen wrote:
rapsac wrote:You may try the advised silicon lubricant, Kluber, on the pistons. See Hope video on Youtube.

So even if the brakes are new, they might not be lubed sufficiently? I really hope this might do the trick, and that my brakes aren't faulty.

No, I meant that if you want to lubricate, better use the Kluber silicon grease. If it will help in your case, I do not know. If the brakes are new but faulty, just send them back and get a replacement or refund?

I'm just hoping they're not, as this will delay my build more. I do not have an extra set of brakes lying around. Already had to get my Extralite hubs replaced. I'll get my bike mechanic bud to look at it when he gets home from vacation. I guess he knows if they're actually faulty or not.

DanW
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:39 pm
Location: Here, there and everywhere

by DanW

What was up with the Extralite hubs?

When I queried the poor piston retraction with Formula, they basically said it is a "feature" of the brakes and they can take as much as 5+ rides to correctly set themselves (when old too, not just when new). I couldn't live with that level of faff. See what they say but don't hold your breath :?

HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

The disc brake holes on the rear hub was drilled a bit clockwise compared to the hub body. Extralite does normally drill the holes counterclockwise compared to the body to leave more material in the highest stressed area.

I was told to contact the Norwegian distribute by Formula. I did just before the weekend, so I guess I'll be hearing back from them soon. Did you also have a problem with Pistons moving at different pace and that they came out skewed?

DanW
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:39 pm
Location: Here, there and everywhere

by DanW

Yes exactly as you describe. They said it is inevitable because the pistons are so small and it normally sorts itself out after quite a few rides as I mentioned. Not super helpful, especially if you have to reset the pads and start the process all over again! Rotor always rubbed on both brakes, levers pulled to the bars and lost all power on long descents before needing to pump up, they got super hot very easily and absolutely ate pads... nothing I liked about R1's I'm afraid and the help I got from Formula/ the distributor was even worse

Junior7
Posts: 96
Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:39 am

by Junior7

My new bike came with Formula brakes at less than 50 miles appeared problems.

It was changed and the set new problem. It was note that the batch is defective.

I bought a Shimano and I'm using the one year without problems.

HaakonJohansen
Posts: 284
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:58 pm

by HaakonJohansen

They seem to be working quite fine now. Only ridden a little bit as I just finished my build (for now, lots of upgrades to come) this week:D But I've caught the flu, so I'm stuck just looking at it for now:( Build is currently at around 6.7 kg with Syntace flat pedals (temporarily borrowed from my street rig), a bit heavy ODI grips (temporarily borrowed from my DH rig), and chinese seat, seatpost, handlebars and stem. All these things are going to upgraded to Shmolke/Extralite etc. parts, and I think I'll get my build down to around 6.3-6.4kg when I'm done;) 6.1-6.2 with Maxxlite tires, if I would want those for race day use.

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nunokas
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 3:18 pm

by nunokas

DanW wrote:Yes exactly as you describe. They said it is inevitable because the pistons are so small and it normally sorts itself out after quite a few rides as I mentioned. Not super helpful, especially if you have to reset the pads and start the process all over again! Rotor always rubbed on both brakes, levers pulled to the bars and lost all power on long descents before needing to pump up, they got super hot very easily and absolutely ate pads... nothing I liked about R1's I'm afraid and the help I got from Formula/ the distributor was even worse



Interesting... I have the exact opposite experience with mine R1r and Rx :D And that includes Formula service (the american not the italian ones)

Using semi metallic jagwire pads with alu back plate and xt icetech rotors.

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