10x135 mm skewer
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I am trying my hand at making a carbon 10x135 thru-bolt, will report back if it works.
Starting with the rear wheel, in case it breaks. If it passes testing, then I'll try a front one.
Basically a 10mm OD carbon tube, 2mm wall thickness, with correct layup for longitudinal stress,
and aluminum inserts of an allen head on one side, and threads for the nut on the other.
Galvanic aspect of the metal/carbon mitigated by an epoxy contact.
Starting with the rear wheel, in case it breaks. If it passes testing, then I'll try a front one.
Basically a 10mm OD carbon tube, 2mm wall thickness, with correct layup for longitudinal stress,
and aluminum inserts of an allen head on one side, and threads for the nut on the other.
Galvanic aspect of the metal/carbon mitigated by an epoxy contact.
Last edited by UpFromOne on Wed Dec 06, 2017 4:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Fairwheel sells some KCNC and Far and Near 135mm skewers, so if you can't import them to Italy, you can probably source them locally. In all honesty, though, I would go with the RWS skewers. I use them on my mountain and CX bikes, and I rarely get any brake rub - they're just that good!
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Received today, DT Swiss RWS 10x135: 68g. Pretty big too.
About this kind of axle, it's not just about the size it's also about the contact area between the cup and the frame, two times bigger with the 10x135, there is a thread on MTBR forum about this with pictures (can't find it again).
About this kind of axle, it's not just about the size it's also about the contact area between the cup and the frame, two times bigger with the 10x135, there is a thread on MTBR forum about this with pictures (can't find it again).
UpFromOne wrote:On mine there won't be any actual metal-to-carbon, which can cause a corrosion (white powder-like) over time with most carbon layups.
That's with direct contact . The epoxy resin will separate the two materials but that's obvious . I have made seatposts, a saddle, several chainrings and bonded my stem/bar and saddle/seatpost . The only thing I have made with metal inserts is a carbon oval chainring but there hasn't been any issues . You should be fine .
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yeah, where are you guys finding the best source for these?
Not many manufacturers offer a light 10x135 thru-bolt.
Here's a typical eBay listing, but this weighs in the high 60g range:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/135x10-Rear-Bi ... OSwEupZf7z~
Hadley makes the best quality aluminum bolts, but is getting more and more difficult to deal with.
That's really the reason I started making my own. I prefer a 10x135 thru-bolt on any 135mm frame.
Almost done with custom converting all my QR hubs to 10mm thru.
Here's a typical eBay listing, but this weighs in the high 60g range:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/135x10-Rear-Bi ... OSwEupZf7z~
Hadley makes the best quality aluminum bolts, but is getting more and more difficult to deal with.
That's really the reason I started making my own. I prefer a 10x135 thru-bolt on any 135mm frame.
Almost done with custom converting all my QR hubs to 10mm thru.
I have just received one of these from ebay:
Won't get a chance to test it for a while, but seems reasonably well made and matches the weight shown in the ebay pic.
I guess the downside is that it's less user friendly than something requiring a single hex key such as the Hadley.
Won't get a chance to test it for a while, but seems reasonably well made and matches the weight shown in the ebay pic.
I guess the downside is that it's less user friendly than something requiring a single hex key such as the Hadley.
I bought one as well to evaluate, as I collect threaded ends for my custom bolts.
IMO the cut threads are beyond acceptable tolerances on that one - note how loose the nuts fit.
Plus they are a coarse 1.5mm thread. Cheap, yep, but not the best specs for the application.
IMO the cut threads are beyond acceptable tolerances on that one - note how loose the nuts fit.
Plus they are a coarse 1.5mm thread. Cheap, yep, but not the best specs for the application.
Maybe you got a dud? Or I got lucky? Never know with ebay
The threads on mine seem to have reasonable shape/engagement and the nuts don't have any slop. Without having another nut/bolt to test against (or a thread gauge), it seems hard to know if it's precise.
At this stage I'm still happy to test it out, it certainly isn't as nice as the 100x9 Hadley that I have, but seems at least as robust as a run of the mill lightweight Ti skewer. I generally don't need to remove the rear wheel often so I hope coarse aluminium thread will live for at least a little while.
I actually ordered two of the same bolts to compare. The other is from a different seller and hasn't shown up yet, it will be interesting to see if that's any worse
The threads on mine seem to have reasonable shape/engagement and the nuts don't have any slop. Without having another nut/bolt to test against (or a thread gauge), it seems hard to know if it's precise.
At this stage I'm still happy to test it out, it certainly isn't as nice as the 100x9 Hadley that I have, but seems at least as robust as a run of the mill lightweight Ti skewer. I generally don't need to remove the rear wheel often so I hope coarse aluminium thread will live for at least a little while.
I actually ordered two of the same bolts to compare. The other is from a different seller and hasn't shown up yet, it will be interesting to see if that's any worse
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